I can’t get my exhaust to drop because of this pipe how can I disconnect it from by the cats right there or drop the exhaust some how??94mustang gt

A9ED5CA5-5515-4204-B5F8-80350A26A467.jpeg
8F062D73-7753-449F-BA7B-AC3AF8039EE2.jpeg
Ipe
A8C68B4B-7C42-40F3-9D97-7C3C312474C7.jpeg
C5816080-C96E-4518-9BD0-9B8F4E40B76B.jpeg
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Most people commonly cut it down by the H-pipe connection where it tees into 1 and continues up to the motor. Find a nice clear straight part and hacksaw it.

When you reassemble, used some 3/4" (I think that's the side) heater hose. Cut a 3-4 in piece, lubricate the inside and slide it on and use it as a coupling. Use a pair of hose clamps to secure.

Makes it easy to remove int he future as well
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Most people commonly cut it down by the H-pipe connection where it tees into 1 and continues up to the motor. Find a nice clear straight part and hacksaw it.

When you reassemble, used some 3/4" (I think that's the side) heater hose. Cut a 3-4 in piece, lubricate the inside and slide it on and use it as a coupling. Use a pair of hose clamps to secure.

Makes it easy to remove int he future as well
 
Yep, that's what I've always done, the AIR pipe gets the cutting. Only thing I'd add is you'll want some silicone heater hose, not the regular stuff which will melt and smoke pretty quickly. Walker makes a kit, 35574, if you're so inclined. If you wanted to get really fancy, you could see if a compression union was available for that size pipe at the hardware store.
 
It's got 25 years of rust in it. I would go with what was mentioned above if you are absolutely deticated to getting it off and maintaining it in it's factory condition, PB blaster, a lot of torch, and a hammer and a cold chisel. Air hammer if you have one. Even all that might not be enough.

Kurt