Progress Thread I Have A Problem

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by problemhouston, Jun 18, 2013.

  1. I just wanted to start a thread that I could talk to you guys about my specific car and what I want for my car. If you are a member on other mustang sites you may see this exact post on those boards as well cause I need all the help I can get. Not trying to spam at all just want as much useful info as possible so I can make good choices.

    I have a 1965 with a 2 barrel 289. I bought the car over 12 years ago and it has sat in the New Mexico desert until about a year ago. I will post pictures of her once I get into my photobucket account again. Goals for the car are: driven 100+ days out of the year, drag strip a couple times a year and maybe one road course event. Most of the suspension parts (upper and lower control arms) have road grime built up on them and I am not sure how much of a benefit it would be to completely replace them with new parts or just rebuild what I have.
    So what are your thoughts on starting with the suspension and what are the first pieces I should get? My suspension budget is about $1,000.
  2. Thanks for the help Rick (which just happens to be my first name as well).

    For the last year I have been looking at the different sites and comparing prices. Now that I have $1,000 I am looking for the best bang for my buck. I am looking at some of the kits out there and the Grab-a-track stuff caught my eye as well as what Opentracker has to offer. I often see folks come in to threads and suggest tubular uppers and lowers which I know are really nice and perform really well but my budget doesn't allow for a lot of that stuff. So that's why I am trying to figure out best bang for my buck.
  3. Here she is...

  4. Spent some time on Opentracker last night and this is what I have some up with so far:

    Upper control arms - $225
    Shelby drop template and drilll bit - $50
    Lower control arms - $160
    Roller purches - $200
    GT/GT 350 - 1" lower springs - $90
    Spring pads - $10
    1" front sway - $100
    Front and rear KYB - $180
    4.5 leaf mid eye rear spring - $200

    That has me at 1,215.00

    Am I missing anything.

    The front disc conversion is a given, I will be going with the CSRP kit. I think they are going for $524.00.
  5. looks good to me. take your old parts and sell them at the swap meet or where ever to offset your costs of buying the new parts. chances are a restorer can use the parts.
  6. Yeah I will keep that in mind. I have a lot of parts from a donor car we used to get the rear quarter. Once it's all said and done I will have to put it all up on Craiglist or something. Thanks for the ideas.
  7. This weekend I rolled her out of the garage and pressure washed some of the dirt and grime off of her. I see some surface rust on some suspension and steering parts but nothing major. Also removed the fuel tank and radiator and will be taking it to a radiator shop to have them both flushed. I am going to try and reuse as many things like the fuel tank and radiator as possible because I think I am going to need to replace the wiring on the car. I found a lot of splices and wires that go no where. Any ideas on what harness I should get and how much it might cost to have a classic car shop do the work?
    Suspension wise I may end up going with one of the kits from Mustang Depot or Mustang Plus. I know their parts are just like factory but I have to find some savings for the wiring somewhere.
  8. Do you care about keeping the strut rods ? If you don't care about keeping the strut rod front setup I'm a big fan of the CCP stuff. I have their stuff on my 67 and I gotta say, the car drove great with their kit on the front end.

    A good set of subframe connectors would be an excellent upgrade for chassis stiffness.

    As for the rear... well there are a lot of options there. A fresh set of bushings in your leaf springs and a good pair of shocks is where I would start.

    Check the radiator and see how many cores it is. If it isn't a big enough radiator you might want to save your money and just replace it.

    When they clean the gas tank, have them put a coating on the inside of it to prevent it from rusting in the future.
  9. UPDATE!!!

    Went with the grab a trak kit from mustangs plus. I have the suspension off and am about to do the Shelby drop. Can you all verify that my marks are in the correct place. I used the template from open tracker.

    Pass side:
    driver side:
    #10 problemhouston, Aug 11, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  10. should be 1 inch down and 1/8 inch back.unless you are doing more of a drop
  11. I'm surprised... I read the thread title and thought, "No way this is a progress thread".

    Glad I was wrong. :)

    Good luck with your project and I hope to see a LOT more of your progress. :nice:

    Oh... By the way... Horse Sense is a First Gen Restoration Demi-God. Look at some of his threads when you have the chance.
  12. the template you used, was it metal or paper? the marks look close, but then i am not quite sure of the scale in the pictures. double check your marks with a ruler or tape measure. as indicated they should be one inch down and 1/8 inch back.
  13. Hey thanks everyone for responding. I will look into Horse Sense and learn as much as I can.

    Noobz, My last name is Houston so I get the "Houston we have a problem" A LOT. So, I just ran with it. So I my named my baby "Problem". Not because I have had lots of problems with her but I am hoping she will be a problem for camaros to deal with on the street once she is done.

    Rbohm it was a metal template. I bolted the template up and started to drill the marks you see. I just want to make sure everything is in the correct place before drilling through.
    #14 problemhouston, Aug 12, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2013
  14. I got the new holes drilled. I think the bit may have drifted a little on one the passenger side holes cause when I try to reinstall the old upper control arm it sticks and I have to tap it into place. When I reinstall the upper on the drivers side it slides right into place. They both go in but the passenger side needs just a bit of pursuasion.
  15. you are probably close enough if it will go in . you can just imagine that these old front ends have drifted a little over the years as well
  16. Cool. Thanks horse sence. I am following your thread. Great work.
  17. if you have the money, GRAB THAT BLOCK NOW!!
  18. if that is the true condition, get it,get it ,get it!!!!!