I need lots more power

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by crew_dawg16, Sep 24, 2004.

  1. I dont think I have been to the track more than once with my stang, but I know I will be driving it on the street. Because of this I am going to stick with the 4.10's. I think the 4.10's will be just the ticket for light to light drving. They should also pull like hell on the freeway with the blower. And since I dont think i ever accelerate past 90 on the freeway the 4.10's should work fine. I also imagine that since I am not driving at the track I will be ablr to put the car in 5th and pull like a mother with the blower and 4.10's. I think as long as you dont hit 5th hard (I dont even think I could power shift 5th since it is such a reach) things should be fine. I just dont see the point of building a car for the strip when 99% percent of the time it will be driven on the street. :shrug:
  2. well, if you have to shift to 5th within a quarter mile of starting all of the fun, then the 3.73s would actually make you quicker, however, in very short runs the 4.10s would own.
  3. Started going to the track this year. Found out some things.
    1) People are real friendly. Must be the common interest.
    2) It's a family sport now days. Junior Dragsters is fun to watch.
    3) Meet all age ranges. I fit in with the old farts.
    4) Man, people that drag race are do it yourselfers. Lot of good BS'ing.
    5) People really take the time to explain things and offer suggestions.
    6) You want to see what cars and mods are fast? Go to the track and see what would work for you.
    7) Racing your car let's you see how fast it is.
    8) Competing against a 10 sec car is wild. Getting a 4 sec head start and watching that car growing in the rearview mirror is damn exciting.

    Damn fun overall.
  4. 4.10 gears aren't too nasty for the street. The main reason a lot choose them to begin with is to increase torque multiplication at the bottom end. 4.6L’s aren’t known for heart stopping low end, so the 4.10’s make up for it in that sense. That being said, the nice thing about the KB blower (or other positive displacement blowers) is that you’re into full boost usually by about 2000rpm and end up with Torque O’ Plenty! So much in fact that it tends to overwhelm the characteristics of the engine and you find yourself topping out each gear prematurely and needing to shift into 4th before the end of the track, where you would be able to stay in the meat of your powerband and just top out 3rd gear before the 4:10’s.
  5. Well, Ive been racing in the past. I used to race my 66 Chevy Caprice coupe when I had it. That car was fun because it was big and fast (fast for a 4000 pound small block car. It ran 14 flat at around 100 mph) So I know racing can be fun. But, since I drive my stang almost exclusively on the street, and most of the time in traffic (I am currently living in Los Angeles) I am looking to build a car that is fast as possible in short bursts, and normal driving. That is why I think the 4.10's are the ticket, even with the blower. Of course only time will tell, and the gears may prove to be too much with the huffer on top. I would be interested to hear from somone with the 6 psi kit installed on their car. I dont think I have read any posts from anybody with that kit yet. Any way, I think you would be able to put a hurtin on most cars out there with the 4.10/6 psi combo.
  6. 200blkgt has the exact setup you're discussing. I've asked him some questions in this thred (3rd page near the bottom)
    Waiting on his reply.
  7. HUH? You've got to be kidding, right? :lol: I agree with the supercharger suggestion. You might want to continue your research before making a decision. It would be great if you could ride in a couple of cars in your area first to get a better idea.

  8. :nonono: PTS02GT...nevermind...
  9. Take into consideration, when ever you add *any* kind of forced induction, your motor is on borrowed time. It doesn't matter how "safe" the tune is. If you have the $$ to buy the supercharger great but, I'd start saving up right away for another short block. A built short block would be best, obviously.

    I'm not trying to rain on your parade but, it's pretty well known. You could drive right out of the shop and your motor can grenade or it could happen a couple years down the road. You never know.
  10. But would that still be the case if the internals are upgraded to forged pistons and rods and if the block is upgraded to a race block? I would think that if the weakest link from the stock engine are upgraded, this would ensure a safe running engine.
  11. I highly doubt that anybody has driven out of a shop with 6 psi and a GOOD tune and had their motor grenade for no reason. However, I do realize that forced induction increases the stresses on your engine quite a bit and I will be saving up to forge the internals. I would probably just get cobra internals, nice and cheap and almost bulletproof.
  12. Define "nice and cheap".
  13. cheaper than most.

    I just found out that the civic I ran has over 300hp
  14. I was looking for a specific number. The forged pistons and rods for my 4.6L are going to cost me over $1,700.00 Canadian....and that's still using the stock crank. That's not excessively cheap as far as I'm concerned.
  15. yeah, well you should be fine with the stock crank as long as you're not planning on running up to 7,000 rpm or over 700 hp.
  16. I would actually keep the 4:10's and get a set of drag radials for the street.

    As for the track run a set of slicks so you don't hit 5th.
  17. I think that even with slicks, I might run out of gear. Think I will be trapping much higher than 111-115?

  18. You shold be able to get your heads ported, cams bought, everythign assembled. for probably around $1200-$1500

  19. you got served!
  20. Although I don't think monstamack has very good communication skills, I think he has a point.

    In the end, to get some serious horsepower out of a 2V, it is waaaay cheaper just to throw a centrifugal blower on there (or a kenne bell!!!) and be done with it. You'll reach higher horsepower for a LOT less cost. The NOVI1000 will produce more than 400rwhp if you wanted it to (though the 2000 would probably be the better choice with that much), but you could limit it to like a sage 360 or so, and you'll have more horsepower than if you bought heads, cams, etc.

    Either way, even with heads and cams, you'll have to get it dyno tuned to really make all the potential horsepower.

    I understand the desire to stay naturally aspirated, as I would prefer to do the same. But without a 4V you'll end up spending a lot more money for a lot less gain.

    Just IMO. I DON'T, however, think you're an idiot. :D