Ignition Timing WAY off!

Funanin

Founding Member
Nov 26, 2001
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Horsham, Pennsylvania
ok so i made a thread about this problem I had a while back where my timing was showing up way off on the balancer so everyone said to get a new one. Well i did that and now it still off by the same amount so now im thinking its got to be something else. The car seems to run ok, but when I point the timing light at the line, the timing marks dont even show up within range. Im not an idiot the spout connector is OUT. So its not like the comptuer is still controlling it. Do you think its possible that my distributor is off by one notch and thats what is throwing it off? I thought I had it back in right but perhaps not. Would the car even run if it was off by a notch?
 
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If it's RUNNING right, but reading off... I would say you're putting it (maybe, not calling you stupid) on the wrong plug wire. It needs to go on the number 1 plug wire, which is the front passanger side plug wire. Good luck

Nick
 
"when you point the timing light at the line"

Do you mean the pointer? There is a little metal pointer that you should be pointing at and seeing how the lines move to the left and right of it as you rotate the dist.
 
come on people i know how to find timing I just rebuilt my entire motor. the timing chain is lined up fine dot to dot and the wire is on the right plug wire. I know what cyl #1 is. Im asking a question about the distributor being in wrong.
 
I certainly don't want to step on toes here, so I am only throwing out things from past experience.
Is it possible the distributor went in on the exhaust stroke instead of the intake....180 out? I have seen that done a few times...and yes, the car can still run!!!
It wouldn't hurt to check once more. Take out plug #1, put your finger over the hole and have someone blip the starter till air pushes your finger out. You should find the timing marks coming up close to the pointer. Finish rotating the balancer up to the pointer using a socket wrench. Clock the distributor in the hole, with rotor pointing again at #1.
If you already know/did all of this, I apologize. It's the only thing I can think of right now that would explain your problem.
Good luck and let us know what you find.
Ken
 
Was the crank-key alright when you installed the new balancer?

Are you sure the knob on the timing light is at zero (if you have an adjustable advance feature)? I have had mine spin while in the tool box and give me a moment of contemplation upon using it again.

How does the reading change if you install the SPOUT connector? Can you tell if you get closer or further away from where you need to be?

Sorry, but no good ideas here bud.
Good luck.
 
cevtv said:
Then you should know that you need to make sure the timing pointer is positioned correctly when you change the balancer, right???
.

it was a stock replacement from FMS with a new pointer also exactly the same as stock so it goes in the same place as stock. It did this with my stock heads and cam before I rebuilt the motor thats why this is so tricky. Im thinking that maybe ever since I replaced my stock manifold and injectors with GT40 and cobra computer kit I had the distributor in wrong. Before that I never actually checked the timing with a light before that.

Would having the cobra X3Z computer in the car have some change on the way the timing is? Did the 93 cobras come with a different balancer or something? :shrug:
 
Funanin said:
it was a stock replacement from FMS with a new pointer also exactly the same as stock so it goes in the same place as stock. It did this with my stock heads and cam before I rebuilt the motor thats why this is so tricky.


:rolleyes: You NEED to make sure it's at TDC when you put the new pointer on..............doesn't matter if it's a stock replacement or not.............the marks on the balancer may not be the same as the one you are replacing.




.
 
I got the exact same problem, my adjustable timing light says the timing is at 50 degrees haha i think if it really was i would have a few holes in my pistons and be pinging like crazy. I tried another distributor and it fixed it for a few minutes somewhat but now its still screwed up, i got a code 18 which is a IDM circuit failure/loss of tach input/or SPOUT cirtcuit failure and i was looking at the entire spout connector harness and eveyrthing looked perfect. Have you pulled ur codes?
 
subscribing - Mine is strange too - although I can read the numbers at the pointer - it is not THAT far off - new balancer because it showed 22* w/o ping but bucked at low speed - now with the new balancer it shows the same and runs the same - albeit a bit smoother - still no ping with 87 octane now at 18* (reduced it to make me feel better) - put spout in and it jumps up and down like normal - PLEASE HELP SOMEONE??? Stock 1993 5spd w/ 1.7 rollers -- all new sensors - NO CODES coming from the computer koer or koeo.... idles at 750-800 smooth, etc... I would like to know what is causing this as well - I re-stabbed my dizzy several times and checked the timing but it only seems to be in the right place exactly where it is because it is limited by the water neck or other obstructions otherwise
 
I've had the same problem. Car runs fine at 22* on 87 octane. Only pings under heavy load. I took it back down to like 12* to make me feel better and I did not notice a change in feel or times. My only guess is that when whoever rebuilt my motor reinstalled the cam they installed it a tooth off. My question is, how much would installing a cam a tooth off equate to on the balancer?