ignitione <<i think thats french for ignition

will_95gt

Member
Jul 27, 2004
298
1
16
Austin, TX
ok, so heres the deal:

My "ignition system" (thats what i'll call it for the lack of a better term) is messed up. Sometimes, when i put the key into the ignition the black thing (we'll call that the MAGIGER) that emcompasses the ...uh...hole...where u put the key, is loose and i have to spin it around untill its in the right spot so that the key will slide in.

Last night was one of those times where it was not alligned, so i start spinning the magiger around while simultaniously pushing the key into the ignition lightly untill i rotated the magiger to the right degree that will allow me to insert the key.

Well, as i'm rotating this 'magiger', it all the sudden locked into position and now i can turn the magiger (with no key in the ignition) and start the car.

This kind of scares me because someone could steal my car failry easy and i can't get the magiger out of this locked position; as a corollary, the key won't go into the ignition. I've tried spinning around the magiger and fiddling with it in hope that it will go back to the way it was but so far i've had no success.


Hopefully i didn't just confuse everyone with my weird terminology... or lack there of... but anyways, tell me what u guys think.

P.S. don't even think about trying to steal my car :nono: just kidding...but seriously don't
 
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Here is my take. If you plan to get a new lock (40-60 bucks last time I checked for a FOrd piece; probably less from a parts store, etc), you can break the ears off. They are a cast piece which has a retention rim on the lock cylinder. If you pry on the ears, they should come off. DO note that the casting on the ears might break too.

If it comes off clean, you can machine some pins to mimic the 3 pins that used to be there (they keep the ears from spinning). You will also see the chime tang (you know how if you dont rotate the ears just right, that chime probably stays on). That tang might be what is holding you up right now, since the lock cylinder is what locks, not the ears.

I would order or get a new cylinder and get it rekeyed since needing it is inevitable. But then you can play with and/or break the ears on this one and not sweat it too much.

Good luck.
 
finally starting

I AM A SLACKER... although, i started this thread 11-19-05, and received enough information to actually attempt such a procedure, and I’m just now building up the energy to actually try this. Not necessarily because of my thirst for a better understanding of how this works...nor am i doing this because of the nuisance of the ears periodically not being aligned...but actually, my key broke of in the lock cylinder

yeah...pretty sweet deal right? Not really. Ok, so here’s my deal, i ran to the local oreilly auto parts and picked me up a new lock cylinder which supposedly will work with my 95 stang...

Now usually i'm not a man who fiddles with such trivial things like ...directions...but because i'm aiming for perfection, i opened the neatly folded square of paper which came with the lock cylinder and actually read it...a couple of times. It says i have to take the steering wheel off to replace the lock cylinder... this is unsettling.

Anyways, i attempted to do so last night; i removed the airbag and unclipped something, which i'm assuming is related to the horn, and set the airbag/horn aside. I then removed the two black things on either side which the airbag rests upon as well as any other screws in my way. But the part that got me is that star-like shaped screw in the dead center... i managed to find a wide bladed screw driver and shoved it in there and with all of my 150 lbs i tried to twist this thing loose but to no avail. Anywayssss does anyone know what kind of screw thing that is so i can go purchase a bit from oreillys???

After i remove that i'm assuming i'll need a steering wheel puller. I've seen one for 40 bucks or so online. My remaining two questions are these:

1. What risks are involved with this operation? Is there a potential to really mess up if i'm not familiar with the procedure?
and
2. Is this actually worth trying to do myself?
oh and also
3. Am i supposed to get this cylinder rekeyed or what? It comes with two keys, although they look pretty lame and seem to lack the complex design of a normal key.


I took the liberty of bolding the important questions because whenever i write something i usually end up writing far too much information than necessary because....well i guess i just like writing. Anyways, thanks for the feedback.

~Will
 
If you are only doing a lock cylinder: the lock cylinder should come out without removing anything, unless you cant get the lock turned to the RUN position.

If you put a skinny punch type of thing up the column cover hole, you can push the button in for the lock cylinder (retention). YOu can look at your new cylinder to see the button (so you can choose a long screwdriver that will fit inside the little hole boss inside the lock cylinder. I used a tiny torx driver I have that's pretty long).

One note: check that POS chimer (the one that makes noise when you dont turn the key all the way off and open the door). The wire for mine was right across where the button is, and had I blindly wailed on the button, it probably would have cut the wire. I was removing the column covers to paint them, so I had those out of the way and saw the wire.

If you decide to remove your wheel (or you need to), as you did, disconnect the battery and let it sit to discharge the airbag computer's capacitors. The one connector is for the bag and the other one at 10 PM is for the horn.

You can leave the CC and horn buttons all attached. I used a generic BS wheel Puller I have (one of those 8 dollar specials from the parts store). You can find them next to the steering wheel adapters in the wheel aisle or rent (loan) one. Anyhow, It worked fine, though my wheel was on there pretty good. Please note that the manual says to replace that steering wheel bolt when you reinstall it. I think this bolt (with a Torx head) is what you tried to use a screwdriver on. It is like a T50 Torx bit IIRC. You can get a set of these bits at the parts store for 10 bucks or so. I recommend the security versions (they have a hole in the middle of the head) though you dont need a security one (as I recall) for that particular bolt. Also get the style that allow a ratchet to attach to them. Once you have that, you can remove the bolt and wheel. If you even need to..........

You can have a locksmith rekey your new lock. If you have your old key, he can do it with that old key and the new lock. If that was your only key that broke, take the new lock, old lock and broken key and he can use the old lock to make your new key.

Lemme know if that didnt cover the waterfront and I will try again. :D

Good luck Will.
 
OK, sweet

Once i get outa school tomarrow i'm going to give this a shot, seeing as how i finally get a day off work.

Here are fallow-up questions:

OK, i'm scanning around for this "button in for the lock cylinder (retention)" and i'm not quite sure i understand what your saying... possibly due to my sleep defficiency braught on by my job (Dang you Quiznos! :bang: ) ANNNyways, do u mean a button litteraly inside the lock clyinder ....like...the hole you put the key in? I might find more clarity in this after i've fiddled around with it tomarrow.

Also, is it optional to get this rekeyed? Well...i know its optional, but does this lock cylinder come with a generic key for all the products, thus neccesitating a rekeying procedure for security reasons... orrr, are all the keys manufactured by lockworks (or whoever sells the specific lock cylinder) different. Because if the sole reason of getting this rekeyed is to have one common key design used throughout the vehicle, then i'll probably skip the rekeying step to save money.


I hope this makes sense, i'm quite tired...

BTW, HISSIN50....your the man :nice:... i envy your thourough knowledge in the workings my car :)
 
will_95gt said:
OK, sweet

Once i get outa school tomarrow i'm going to give this a shot, seeing as how i finally get a day off work.

Here are fallow-up questions:

OK, i'm scanning around for this "button in for the lock cylinder (retention)" and i'm not quite sure i understand what your saying... possibly due to my sleep defficiency braught on by my job (Dang you Quiznos! :bang: ) ANNNyways, do u mean a button litteraly inside the lock clyinder ....like...the hole you put the key in? I might find more clarity in this after i've fiddled around with it tomarrow.

Also, is it optional to get this rekeyed? Well...i know its optional, but does this lock cylinder come with a generic key for all the products, thus neccesitating a rekeying procedure for security reasons... orrr, are all the keys manufactured by lockworks (or whoever sells the specific lock cylinder) different. Because if the sole reason of getting this rekeyed is to have one common key design used throughout the vehicle, then i'll probably skip the rekeying step to save money.


I hope this makes sense, i'm quite tired...

BTW, HISSIN50....your the man :nice:... i envy your thourough knowledge in the workings my car :)

The release pin (retention pin - I dont know the real name) is a tiny little round button in the side of the lock cylinder. It is about the diameter of the head of a cotton swab (Q-tip). You put the ignition in the run position, and that allows the button to be pressed in.
If you have the plastic ignition column still on the car, on the passenger side of the bottom column shroud, you will see 3 holes IIRC. Two holes have screws in them (to attach the top column shroud to the bottom one) and the third hole has no screw. This is where you can insert a long skinny item to push the button to remove the lock.

If you have a new lock cylinder already, look at the side of the housing (the round part) and you should see the hole in the housing and the button.

I will defer the second question to others. I am willing to bet it should be somewhat secure, but I have always rekeyed so the keys matched (call a locksmith - you might be surprised how cheap it is).

Good luck!
 
The Green GT said:
Mine rotates too, but I need to key to start it. im not really worried about it but I would LOVE to rip out the thing that makes it ding. I ****ING HATE THAT THING
The ears are the only thing rotating. They're there to help diffuse the pressure/force of twisting the key in the ignition (so the key doesnt snap off). See my first post about fixing that aspect of things (affixing the ears again).

You can ditch that chimer really really easy. Remove the plastic column covers (4 screws IIRC) and you will see that it sits in the side of the lock cylinder orifice. It seems to me that if you remove it (it pulls out - at least mine did when I removed the lock) and tape up the contacts, you could just let it sit inside the column covers. If the contact is insulated, it wont ground and chime.
 
HISSIN50 said:
The ears are the only thing rotating. They're there to help diffuse the pressure/force of twisting the key in the ignition (so the key doesnt snap off). See my first post about fixing that aspect of things (affixing the ears again).

You can ditch that chimer really really easy. Remove the plastic column covers (4 screws IIRC) and you will see that it sits in the side of the lock cylinder orifice. It seems to me that if you remove it (it pulls out - at least mine did when I removed the lock) and tape up the contacts, you could just let it sit inside the column covers. If the contact is insulated, it wont ground and chime.
Good, Im going to do that tommorrow. I hate not bieng able to listen to the radio when im working on the interior of my car because I cant stand that thing. I stuck something between the button and the tab that turns it off once, and forgot to take it out and bent the tab. I had to drive around with it dinging for like 15 minutes. O man it was EXCRUCIATING.
 
OK i got the old one out. But the new one isn't working
I put it in and plugged the battery back in but its still messed up.

Heres the deal:

I am able to turn the new key to the run position, so the CD player and dash turns on, but i can't turn it passed the run possition to crank the engine... it physically won't let me.

If i take the cylinder out i can turn it all the way to cranking position and likewise i can stick a screw driver in there without a cylinder and turn that part to the cranking position but for some reason, when i put the cylinder in something happens which doesn't allow me to crank it....


any ideas?

I'm about to take this thing to ford and probably end up spending my entire paycheck :-(
 
I dont get it. If you can turn that bell at the end of the where the lock cylinder goes, then the linkage should be ok.

And if you can turn the new lock to crank while you have it in your hand, there is no reason I can come up with why it shouldnt start the car.

Weird.
 
Cool. Locks are one thing I try not to cheap out on but I sure know about saving a buck or two.

Glad to hear you got it!