I'm having a completely new sound system put in... $950

[blake44]

Keep in mind everything that is being done is professional done by a local business in my city that specializes in sound systems. Real down to earth guys that run it and great service and a full warranty. They also do everything right and everything is installed perfectly and wires are hidden. I just want to see if ya'll agree with the price and what ya'll think.

I'm having 4 alpine type s door speakers installed which run for 100 a pair.
They then have to bypass the mach audio system amps and detach them from the top of the trunk and then run a complete whole new wiring system from the headunit to the speakers.

Next is a customly built ported box with a 12 inch alpine type r subwoofer w/ a alpine mrp m500 1000 watt amp. And then they are hooking everything up to my kenwood cd player.

So speakers = 200
Speaker install = 70
Amp bypass and rewiring = 165
Subwoofer = 200
Amp = 190
custom built ported box = 175
subwoofer and amp install = 80

The guy then cut me a 130 dollar break since I was having a full blown system installed by them and also offered me a huge discount on window tint. They offered to have some guy that has been tinting windows for 26 years and spends a whole day on one car to do my car for less than the price of what a somewhat okay tinting shop offered.

Does this package sound good to you? My mach audio system was destroyed by the previous owner (All of the speakers are blown and the amp is just gone to hell) I know most people will say this is a waste of money but I have a steady income and love music more than anything else (Besides the gt of course) and am having this done for Christmas. What do ya'll think?

And for the guys that say do it yourself, this isn't exactly applicable for me as I have limited time because of school and other activities and I am not the greatest at building boxes and wiring up stuff. I know the install and all that could cut back the price but I don't have time or much knowledge as to how to do it. But I am willing to pay the extra dollar since these guys are the best in town and do everything perfectly.

 

[EPIK]

Sounds like a nice setup....

 

[blake44]

Sounds like a nice setup....

Thanks man. Most people I know personally have been telling me to get cheap subs with more power but I'm going for the crisp and clean sound in the stang to go with my flow 40's and o/r x pipe

I'm not all about just getting as much bass as I can for my buck, I want crisp clean sound with a little bump

I'll definitely be sure to post pictures for ya'll a couple days after I get it installed too.

 

[EPIK]

Thanks man. Most people I know personally have been telling me to get cheap subs with more power but I'm going for the crisp and clean sound in the stang to go with my flow 40's and o/r x pipe

I'm not all about just getting as much bass as I can for my buck, I want crisp clean sound with a little bump

I'll definitely be sure to post pictures for ya'll a couple days after I get it installed too.

I am fine with my Mach 460, but if I ever do get another system, it will be for a clean crisp sound, not earth shaking, trunk rattling bass.

My old 95 came with a nice sounding system.Nothing too elaborate, but It had some pioneer door & rear speakers, eclipse deck, alpine amp, JL amp, crossover, & 1 JL audio 10" sub...It was the best sounding system I have ever had in a car...

Definitely post pics when its done....

 

[blake44]

That's exactly how I feel. I love music being completely crisp and clean with some thump. I hate it when cars are just rattling apart from tank subs in the trunk.

Also, my license plate only has 2 screws going through the top of it. Will I be able to drill 2 in the bottom holes myself through my car so it doesn't rattle?

 

[fasterthanthem]

Most people use some sort of foam/buffer and put it between the license plate and the paint to keep it from rattling. But that is a pretty good deal on the installation part. Other then that the only thing is they are asking almost double on all the parts, which I would expect nothing less from a shop. I just buy the items wholesale and got my last sub, an alpine type r 12", for 100$ from sonicelectronix.com I think..

 

[blake44]

Hate to break it to you, but the reason sonicelectronix is so cheap is because their items aren't exactly new.

They get their stuff from third parties. All of their subs and amps, etc, are used or have been returned to be fixed and then sold as new.

 

[fasterthanthem]

That has only happened a couple of times. People are just blowing it out of proportion, because there are 100's of other sites that offer the items at close to the same prices. And just FYI, I thought the type R sounded muddy in the mustang trunk, so if sound quality is what you are going for, I'd suggest something else.

 

[flstang65]

that price sounds about right. we went to install a system in my ex's car and it was around that price also. we had a box made for the trunk that held 2 12" kicker L7 solobaric's, 2 farad capacitor, 200 amp alternator ( i installed that part), 2 kicker 1500 watt amps, 2 layers of dynamat and a nice pioneer head unit. we left the rest of the mach 460 speakers. lol, we had everything ready to go and ended up spending the money on suspension instead. good thing i converted her from a ricer to a more respectable performance oriented stanger. also, myself included, i do prefer the more crisp, clean, and natural sound over all the thumping.

 

[ArkansasMystic]

There's no way I'd pay that. Are they gonna seal the doors? You can have the best sub in the world and a horrible front stage, and you have nothing. The type r is an SPL sub, it is meant to get loud and sacrifices quality. For crisp, clear bass I'd say it would be hard to beat a JL sub (for what you are looking to pay, I'd get a JL stealthbox). Ported is great, but it is hard to get a sub in a ported box to sound as good as one in a sealed. Certain subs such as the Type R sound like crap in sealed enclosures. You CAN get a ported to turn out good SQ (quality), but it is pretty difficult. Also, the sealed would take less space. You need a component set for the front so that you can adjust the settings to get better sound, not just speakers. Also, you should look into a 5 channel amp. You have one channel to power the sub, then the other 4 power all of your speakers, so your sound will be much better. The first step to a SQ setup is the front stage IMO. What brands does your dealer carry? The best bang for the buck component set is the PG RSD's, they can be found on ebay and other places for under $100. Most people say don't worry about rear speakers, but it's really up to you. I'd also go with a single 10, not 12. Less trunk space taken up, and a 10 usually will have better quality. The benefit of a 12 is that is has more cone area thus more output. I'm no expert, but I have done a lot of reading and asking questions on car audio forums and I believe you need to go a different direction with your setup. You can still have work done at the dealer, but just different components of the system. Check out Crutchfield: LCD TV, Car Audio, Home Theater, Speakers, Plasma TV, they have a huge selection at good prices (not the cheapest, but top notch quality) for comparison to the shops prices.

 

[LaserSVT]

Sounds like a decient setup. Coaxials give the mustangs a well balenced sound stage up fron but require alot of equalization. If its a better series Kenwood it will have a quasi parametric eq and that will help. Kenwoods internal amps suck though so I would highly reccomend an amp for the full range speakers. Since the sub amp is 500 wrms then a minimum of 50 w rms x4 is needed for the main speakers to achieve the right balence.
As for the rewire with just a deck powering the mains, it not needed. The speaker wires that feed the Mach 460 tweeters comes straight from the factory deck and they are 16 awg so they will be just fine to run the signal I used to charge $50 to run four new speaker wires
The amp/sub tray comes out very easily on the 460 as well. Just take off the rear shelf carpet and you will see 8- 10mm nuts ... or mabey they are 11mm, I forget and just unplug it and it drops right out. You will see the two seperate plugs for the tweeters and thoes are the wires that run straight to the deck

Hope it helps a little

 

[bhuff30]

Sounds like a fairly nice setup. I think you'll like it. I've got an alpine and boston acoustics system. I origionally installed the system in my 88, started building it in 2000. I enjoyed it for a long while and moved it over to the 97 GT when I started daily driving it, along with adding monster cable wiring.

I've got boston acoustics speakers all around, the mid price level at the time I was buying, an alpine 4 channel amp for those, alpine head unit, and a 10" alpine woofer and amp. I've been loving the system for the last 8 years in 2 different cars, and it still sounds amazing! I've heard system that cost 2-3 times as what I spent, but they honestly don't have the clarity and cleaness that the boston accoustics and alpine provide.

A couple things I'd mention... the kenwood head unit won't let you get the most from your system and the sound quality would be hugely improved if you put an amp on the door and rear speakers.

It's very easy to do the work yourself too.

 

[LaserSVT]

Boston Acoustics FTMFW!!

I had Boston mid level components (forget if they were SL or SX) and they sounded way better then the MB Quart Premiums and Refrences I had. I then went with Boston Pro 6.5 components and a pair of Boston Pro 10s with Rockford amps and it was the second best sounding system I ever did (I have installed over 1000 systems).
The best sounding system I ever installed was Infinity Beta components with Beta 15" subs all powered off McIntosh amps and Pioneer ODR source units with a 5 channel 31 band eq.
Of course installation alone was over $6000 dollars because of all the custom work needed to fit 8" woofers in the front doors and 6.5" components in the kick pannels in that Cobra.
Sound was un freaking believable. Heard stuff in music that I have NEVER heard before. Could hear the second a pick hits a string or when a singer takes a breath, just incrediable. I think that system was just over $18000 installed

 

[mustang50v8]

Hate to break it to you, but the reason sonicelectronix is so cheap is because their items aren't exactly new.

They get their stuff from third parties. All of their subs and amps, etc, are used or have been returned to be fixed and then sold as new.

i have bought several things from sonicelectronix.com and never once have i been sold a "used" or "like new" item. everything i have recieved is new in factory sealed condition. their service is top notch prices are excellent and they ship quickly.

 

[bullitt_2620]

Sounds good. You will love it over the stock system, especially a blown one it will be hard to go back though. Thats the only problem with going that route, now every car i own in the future will need a full system.

 

[kosmos]

one thing i will recommend from a guy who has a nice system setup is make sure you have a cd player that has crossover control on it so your HIGHS will sound loud and the bass wont over due your highs, I have 1 10" kicker soloberic in ported box with alpine 500 watt amp and had a nice alpine cd player but ditched it like a dumbass for a touch screen motorized flipout tv and it doesnt have crossovers on it and before my highs sounded fantastic with the stock door speakers with the sub, now I cant turn my highs to higher frequency so my bass now is louder than my highs so im kinda pissed i didnt take that into consideration before hand, but I like my bass loud because its hard to get a mustang really bass heavy because the accoustics in a mustang suck compared to a smaller car like a honda or something, so if u put a same system in both cars the honda would be way louder, a guy i knew put a 12" sub customed into his spare tire section with dyamate to keep sound inside the car and it was hella loud and sounded good without the trunk vibrating cause thats imbarressing but the alpine type s is good but if i was you i'd go for 1 10" kicker soloberic *square sub* over a type s it will blow that 12 into next week, make sure its in a ported box


EITHER GET SOLOBERIC KICKER 10" IN PORTED BOX
OR JL AUDIO W7 which is pricey but loud as *****

 

[clentonz]

There's no way I'd pay that. Are they gonna seal the doors? You can have the best sub in the world and a horrible front stage, and you have nothing. The type r is an SPL sub, it is meant to get loud and sacrifices quality. For crisp, clear bass I'd say it would be hard to beat a JL sub (for what you are looking to pay, I'd get a JL stealthbox). Ported is great, but it is hard to get a sub in a ported box to sound as good as one in a sealed. Certain subs such as the Type R sound like crap in sealed enclosures. You CAN get a ported to turn out good SQ (quality), but it is pretty difficult. Also, the sealed would take less space. You need a component set for the front so that you can adjust the settings to get better sound, not just speakers. Also, you should look into a 5 channel amp. You have one channel to power the sub, then the other 4 power all of your speakers, so your sound will be much better. The first step to a SQ setup is the front stage IMO. What brands does your dealer carry? The best bang for the buck component set is the PG RSD's, they can be found on ebay and other places for under $100. Most people say don't worry about rear speakers, but it's really up to you. I'd also go with a single 10, not 12. Less trunk space taken up, and a 10 usually will have better quality. The benefit of a 12 is that is has more cone area thus more output. I'm no expert, but I have done a lot of reading and asking questions on car audio forums and I believe you need to go a different direction with your setup. You can still have work done at the dealer, but just different components of the system. Check out Crutchfield: LCD TV, Car Audio, Home Theater, Speakers, Plasma TV, they have a huge selection at good prices (not the cheapest, but top notch quality) for comparison to the shops prices.

The Type R is NOT just a SPL sub; its a good mix between SPL/SQ. I have one, that is getting a new box in a couple weeks and a 1500W Class D amp(600w max now). And even now, it sounds really good...and hits very crisp/clear. I just checked ikesound.com and they are down too $66!!! Man, I thought I got a good deal with a best buy discount...originally $229 down from $114. Was a year or so ago, but sh**!!

Ya, I defiantly think that the OP could have got a much better deal/system, if he were to install it himself; but if that's not his thing, than its not that bad ....I personally, would NEVER go to a install shop (local, best buy, etc.), but that's me. I think that the tint/etc helps justify it a little more, imo the install $$$ could have went to better speakers, etc.

I dunno, I could break it all down and send you all these links of what I think you should have done; but its your car and whats done is done. Hope you enjoy the system; defiantly better than the 460

Peace bro,

 

[waggs]

Ported is great, but it is hard to get a sub in a ported box to sound as good as one in a sealed.

it's not too hard to get ported boxes to sound good. you just gotta make sure you know what dimensions and port lengths to use.

i used to have a 12" type r in a 2.5cu box@33hz. it barely fit in my trunk. it was way too loud for me. i sold it and got two 10" kickers instead

 

[LaserSVT]

kosmos reminded me of something important too. If the deck has a high/low x-over use it and not the amps. X-overs that use potentiometers for frequency selection usually cause a certain part of the frequency range to be out of phase and cause sound problems. Digital or switch type x-overs dont seem to have that issue as often. If you are stuck using the amps x-pver you may need to wire one side of the mains out of phase or do it for the subwoofer to get the best sound you can

 

[ArkansasMystic]

The type r being SPL is pure opinion. I tend to think of it more as SPL over SQ. The OP really seems to be going for SQ, but the type r would do. Biggest thing to me when considering a system for my cobra was the amount of space. I didn't say ported can't sound good, I said that it's hard to get a ported to sound AS good as a sealed (with proper subs). The type r will sound like crap sealed, but awesome ported. If it were me, I'd do a single 10 in a small sealed enclosure. The smaller the box, the tighter it will sound. The bigger it is, the boomier it will be. Most manufacturers list a size range for boxes. Stay within that range, but you should plan accordingly. Since the OP is pretty set on having the shop do the work, I think we should all find out what brands are offered before we can truely say that there could be a better system. Obviously the money isn't the issue, it's just making sure that the system will function together like it should. I still say go with a component set up front regardless so you can have more control over your front stage and help balance it with the sub.