So, when I asked about suspension components the most common recommendation was to use the Eibach pro kit springs, KYB shocks, and MM caster/camber plates. All in all, it's been a major pain in the ***. The springs are about the same length as stock, not sure how they are going to lower the car an inch. But, I don't really care about that. After much trial and error, I can finally get the stupid springs in the car by using a combination of shortened death stick compressors and a MM spring installation tool. Once I get them in though, the strut won't reach the bolt holes. I think the MM plate is spaced too far up for them to reach. WTF, how has this worked for others in the past?
Suspension Installing Eibach Pro Kit Springs - This Has Sucked And Keeps Sucking Worse
- Thread starter stpete
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Be sure you have the springs seated correctly, Iirc the tails both sides point to drivers side or it wont sit level.... anyone feel free to correct me
@Mustang5L5 @mikestang63
@Mustang5L5 @mikestang63
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Correct, the factory position is facing the driver side but these cars are so tweeked being 30 years old now you may need to play with them to get the car to sit right, Most of the time. the problem seen at the back of the car is from the fron of the car issues.
MM makes a cheap $15 tool that makes installing front lowering springs simple. No compressor needed. I used that tool when I did my front 5 lug spindle swap. It holds the spring in place and you just jack the arm back up into place and install the strut bolts.
Yeah, the MM tool is really the way to go. With the eibach springs, I still needed a small amount of spring compression to get them on. I cut down some external compressors so they would fit. Front is done, busy for a couple weeks then on to the back. Interested to hear if anyone has any hints there. Installing SVT control arms, springs and shocks. Planning on following the lmr video, but judging by how well the front went ...
Back springs are easy. Unbolt the shock and quad and lower each side down and you can just remove and replace the rear springs by hand. No compressors needed. Biggest factor into how much time it takes is how long it takes you to unbolt the shock and quad.
For rear control arms, make sure you don't torque them down fully until the weight is on the vehicle suspension. Tighten the bolts 25-50% of the way or so, then put the rear axle on jackstands to put weight on it and then go torque everything to spec.
For rear control arms, make sure you don't torque them down fully until the weight is on the vehicle suspension. Tighten the bolts 25-50% of the way or so, then put the rear axle on jackstands to put weight on it and then go torque everything to spec.
I'm replacing the rear control arms as well, so that should make it a little more difficult.
My car looks pretty '70s right now with the stock rear springs and lowered fronts.
Either way, I am racing my Spec Miata at VIR on May 8 weekend and both my car and trailer (not to mention the yard) need a little maintenance. The Mustang is driveable so it can wait until after that weekend. Either that or I'll just put some Cragars and a Starsky & Hutch stripe on it.
My car looks pretty '70s right now with the stock rear springs and lowered fronts.
Either way, I am racing my Spec Miata at VIR on May 8 weekend and both my car and trailer (not to mention the yard) need a little maintenance. The Mustang is driveable so it can wait until after that weekend. Either that or I'll just put some Cragars and a Starsky & Hutch stripe on it.
If the upper arms come out with little issue the rear is a breeze. I got lucky and didn't have to heat or man handle mine. The front was a different story altogether.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
be prepared to have to drop your mufflers out of the way to gain access to the front bolts on the rear lower control arms. I would recommend you soak all the bolts for a few days prior with PB blaster, and get the $30 MM rear upper control arm bushing tool as well as the $15 spring holder. Worth every penny.
Also while you are at it, inspect your torque boxes for signs of damage and repair them if they are torn and install battle boxes before you put new control arms on. For the front. inspect the A arm bushings and ball joints- might as well address those while everything is apart. You can replace the ball joints one time in these arms as the replacements are slightly larger and are press to fit I would get the Moog or Steeda replacements. Finally, put in a set of new poly sway bar bushings and end links. Don't fforget the poly spring isolators or you may end up with squeaks.
Also while you are at it, inspect your torque boxes for signs of damage and repair them if they are torn and install battle boxes before you put new control arms on. For the front. inspect the A arm bushings and ball joints- might as well address those while everything is apart. You can replace the ball joints one time in these arms as the replacements are slightly larger and are press to fit I would get the Moog or Steeda replacements. Finally, put in a set of new poly sway bar bushings and end links. Don't fforget the poly spring isolators or you may end up with squeaks.
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