Installing JBA Shorty Headers

I don't know about what the other guys said, but I find it pretty fun looking up new stuff to do on my car. I did not know a whole lot about engines when I first started, but I figured I could read instructions and I also am a crew chief on a multi million dollar aircraft, so I know I can turn a wrench. Just do your research get a couple friends, few beers and learn. I would rather do a job on my car than letting some disgruntled billy bob making 6.00 an hour do the job. Now if you never have turned a wrench, cannot read instructions, and prone to screw things up disregard all that I said
 
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my_03GT said:
Redline I don't know about what the other guys said, but I find it pretty fun looking up new stuff to do on my car. I did not know a whole lot about engines when I first started, but I figured I could read instructions and I also am a crew chief on a multi million dollar aircraft, so I know I can turn a wrench. Just do your research get a couple friends, few beers and learn. I would rather do a job on my car than letting some disgruntled billy bob making 6.00 an hour do the job. Now if you never have turned a wrench, cannot read instructions, and prone to screw things up disregard all that I said



agreed.

& whoever said it's a hard install is wrong, it's nothing more than time consuming. & even having said that after you do it a few times it doesn't take that long either. the pics that you see there are from when i installed my k-member, a-arms, coil overs, & c/c plates. now keep in mind i've done this a few times....i had the k-member dropped in 45* minutes - by myself. & these guys are right about being able to do it without dropping the k-member, it's very doable, that's just the way i prefer to do it. & where i've done it so many times can probably do it faster by dropping the k-member than most can do the other way.

my opinion is that dropping the k-member is going to be easier for you. not being demeaning to you at all, but just from reading what you've been saying you need to simplify the install, & by dropping the k-member it makes the header install easier because you have more room to work with. that's just my .02 though :nice:

* i had to wait on some tools, but i timed myself when i was actually working cause i was curious how long it took me to do it.
 
my_03GT said:
Redline I don't know about what the other guys said, but I find it pretty fun looking up new stuff to do on my car. I did not know a whole lot about engines when I first started, but I figured I could read instructions and I also am a crew chief on a multi million dollar aircraft, so I know I can turn a wrench. Just do your research get a couple friends, few beers and learn. I would rather do a job on my car than letting some disgruntled billy bob making 6.00 an hour do the job. Now if you never have turned a wrench, cannot read instructions, and prone to screw things up disregard all that I said



Whoa, wait a minute you must be talking to - UDTBadkarma (thread starter) and I also agree with you however if he is doing this by himself without help from someone who is familarized with parts on a car he could end up with a mess on his hands
 
When I installed my JBA shortys I didn't have to remove the K-member (like Redline 01 said). I pretty much followed these instructions:

http://www.centuryperformance.com/jbaheaders/install16.htm

Like he said, it's not difficult, just time consuming. It helps if you have access to a fully equipped garage and every tool known to mankind. Sorry I didn't catch this thread sooner. Might have saved you some grief.
 
Wow, can't beleive the naysayers here. :nonono:

Header installs are not technically hard, as said above they are just time consuming. As for his question, the starter is kindof hidden and I'm sure alot of people don't know where it is. It is located on the passenger side of the engine right next to where the header and H-pipe come together. You have to remove the H-pipe to get to the starter.
 
NasaGT said:
Wow, can't beleive the naysayers here. :nonono:

Header installs are not technically hard, as said above they are just time consuming. As for his question, the starter is kindof hidden and I'm sure alot of people don't know where it is. It is located on the passenger side of the engine right next to where the header and H-pipe come together. You have to remove the H-pipe to get to the starter.
I didn't mean they should def NOT try it, but they seemed a little vague about basic concepts (not quite 'What is a spanner?') but not knowing where the starter motor is located is not an incouraging thought. All mechanical starter motors need to spin the engine over in order to start them, this would mean looking at the bell housing (the big bit of metal between the engine and gear box) as this is where the fly wheel is located.

And in theory apart from time it shouldn't be too bad, but do rememebr SAFETY FIRST, if you are going to jack the car up, use axel stands as a jack alone is not safe enough to then go crawling under the car. In addition take it easy because if you do hit snags like a stripped manifold stud it will be a REAL BUGGER to sort and will leave the car undrivable (legally) until sorted.
 
Well i got my JBA headers and 70mm T/B from my friend yesterday :banana:

And I priced the install with a friend I know from Ford, and he's charging me $250-300 for the JBA header install (depending on "how clean the headers are" he says).

So what do you guys think? Install the headers myself this weekend? Or save up some cash and just have him do it? If he does it, this will be the only thing done to my car i haven't done myself :( so thats why I really would like to do it myself. But I know how much of a PITA these can be.


EDIT: Oh, and how much are gaskets from Ford? Because I need new headers gaskets...
 
You can do it yourself, its not that difficult. I would drop the K-member though. I've done it both ways and dropping the K is the better way to go. And get a 13mm S-wrench. It makes getting to the top 2 center bolts on the passenger side a lot easier. Go here for a complete article on the install

http://www.stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=1



13mm%20S-wrench.jpg
 

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Rocketman said:
You can do it yourself, its not that difficult. I would drop the K-member though. I've done it both ways and dropping the K is the better way to go. And get a 13mm S-wrench. It makes getting to the top 2 center bolts on the passenger side a lot easier. Go here for a complete article on the install

http://www.stangfreak.com/content/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=52&Itemid=1

That site is a great help, but yikes... I *JUST* removed and installed my springs and struts (to upgrade them to lowering springs and adjustable struts) LAST WEEKEND!!! You are telling me now that I have to do that AGAIN?!?!

That just seems counter productive... I wanted to do all the modifications myself to this car, but to do ALL that ALL over again would be rediculous I think :nonono:


Does anyone have another good write-up on the OTHER way to install headers? Removing the K-member just seems like such a PITA, that for $300 I might just get the headers installed...




EDIT:
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Another important question I have is this:
- I just installed new springs, struts and cast & camber plates last weekend, and then had my car aligned by SEARS Auto Center. *IF* I install these headers myself, and have to remove the K-memeber, the struts, springs, A-arms, etc...will I have to take my car to get aligned AGAIN after I install the headers and put everything back together. Obviously I will leave the C/C plates as they are, but will moving the struts in and out again mess up my alignment. Or will this install at all mess up my alignment?
 
UDTBadkarma said:
That site is a great help, but yikes... I *JUST* removed and installed my springs and struts (to upgrade them to lowering springs and adjustable struts) LAST WEEKEND!!! You are telling me now that I have to do that AGAIN?!?!

That just seems counter productive... I wanted to do all the modifications myself to this car, but to do ALL that ALL over again would be rediculous I think :nonono:


Does anyone have another good write-up on the OTHER way to install headers? Removing the K-member just seems like such a PITA, that for $300 I might just get the headers installed...


you could always remove the engine. :D
 
UDTBadkarma said:
EDIT:
----------------------------------------------------------

Another important question I have is this:
- I just installed new springs, struts and cast & camber plates last weekend, and then had my car aligned by SEARS Auto Center. *IF* I install these headers myself, and have to remove the K-memeber, the struts, springs, A-arms, etc...will I have to take my car to get aligned AGAIN after I install the headers and put everything back together. Obviously I will leave the C/C plates as they are, but will moving the struts in and out again mess up my alignment. Or will this install at all mess up my alignment?




a lil FYI for ya.........sears has a warranty on their work with that. you may wanna check with them to see if they'll do it again for ya
 
stangman said:
a lil FYI for ya.........sears has a warranty on their work with that. you may wanna check with them to see if they'll do it again for ya


yeah i know. I have a 6,000 mile or 6 month warranty on my alignment. So *IF* this project will mess up my alignment, maybe i'll take it back to them for free :shrug:



And Flipnsac, as I said on the 1st page, I already have those instructions but they aren't graphic enough for me. Thanks though.
 
Stangman, I sent you a PM


Ok, and after having just removed two 350 Chevy Engines this past week from 2 pickups and putting one of them back in another pickup that my Uncle has in his shop...I think I'm mechanically more inclined and ready to install headers on my car now :nice:

I realize the chevy's and ford's are different, especially carburated vs fuel injected engines. Like Chevy's have the starters under the engine, etc. But i think I have a good grasp of the engine and componenets now that the header install should be no problem... (minus the random wrong tool and hard to turn nut problems that I often encounter when doing my own mods) But with a shop full of tools and electric air guns, i get the right tools eventually :)
 
I don't think you will need an alignment if you drop the K-member. When I dropped my K-member to install my BBK shorty's, I put in an aftermarket PA Racing Tubular K-member. I did need an alignment after I installed the tubular one.

PA%20Vs%20Factory%20K-memeber.jpg





EDIT:
----------------------------------------------------------

Another important question I have is this:
- I just installed new springs, struts and cast & camber plates last weekend, and then had my car aligned by SEARS Auto Center. *IF* I install these headers myself, and have to remove the K-memeber, the struts, springs, A-arms, etc...will I have to take my car to get aligned AGAIN after I install the headers and put everything back together. Obviously I will leave the C/C plates as they are, but will moving the struts in and out again mess up my alignment. Or will this install at all mess up my alignment?[/QUOTE]
 

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