Installing VT stg 1 N/A Cams.

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by hotmustang331, Jul 25, 2005.

  1. Yea, we just put the cams in. (This is a full write up on how to instal the cams, and what you should expect after the instal) First things first, THE AFM CAM TOOL IS A JOKE ,one little slip up and you can loose it. We didnt even use the thing, we figured out how it worked and it was just TOO iffy. ALL you need is some vice grips for the RH (pass) side and a nice C clamp for the LH (drivers) side. Worked like a charm. So basically the HARDEST part of the instal is getting the valve covers on and off, both sides are a mojor PAIN, drivers side is tougher.

    Here goes...this is going to be LONG. First unbolt all the intake stuff, like the cai/plastic tube, PCV sytem and such. Unplug all the injectors and COPs on the drivers side and lift the main cluster up out of the way. Unbolt all the valve cover bolts (also a MAJOR PAIN) with a 5/16s socket and wrench (when needed)combo. Despite what everyone says, YOU HAVE TO REMOVE YOU FIRWALL CLUTCH ADJUSTER TO GET THIS COVER OFF....not dure if the stock one will clear...but I doubt it.(There are these little rubber peices that fit into each hole on the vale cover, and I recommend removing most of those that you can reach before you start wiggling the valve cover trying to remove it...other wise one may fall down the motor) So basically pull the valve cover up then back a little then pick the front of the cover up almost vertically and wigle it out. LEAVE THE GASKET ON THE HEADS for right will have to run your hand under the cover to get the rubber gasket off. Now onto the pass side, remove the first (#1 piston) COP clip and pop off the COP. Then you can either remove the plug now or later. This sides wire clucter doesnt have much slack so you basically have to live with it. You can remove all the valve cover bolts with the same rachet,extention(s), swivle, 5/16s socket (dont think the wrench is needed on this side). We used a 3/8s rachet and addapted doen to a 1/4 drive swivle and 5/16 socket...not sure if a 3/8s drive 5/16s will fit in some places...ITS THAT TIGHT.Ok, then pull the valve cover UP with respect to the head as much as possable (try and keep about lv) and then pull forward and wiggle it out around all the cluster.

    Ok, now everything is exposed. Go ahead and get TDC, there is a mark on the front engine cover (short one is TDC, long is BTDC) and on the ballancer there is a slot/cutout on the INSIDE of the belt closest to the motor. If you want, take the 1st spark plug out now (pass side). Turn the engine using an 11/16 (i think thats what it was) socket and get those marks lined about up. It doesnt matter if its on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. (we did the passenger side first so that how I am guiding you) Take some white out and mark a straight line that connects the chain to the cam gear(do both sides). Then go ahead and take your vice grips, put the bottom grip on one of the holes and the top grip onto the chain and clamp it tight enough where you know it wont come off. This will serve to purposes, 1st it wont let the chain skip a tooth on the cam gear (if you let it get slack, IT CAN JUMP A TOOTH ON THE BOOTOM GEAR THAT INSIDE THE MOTOR) and 2nd it allows your helper to hold the cam gear up, so as to hold tention on the chain.
    Now here is the part I failed to realize and glad my dad mentioned it earlier, THERE IS 1 CAM FOR EACH HEAD! They have different part has RH engraved on it (pass side) and the other has LH. Take both of the new cams and hold it over the old cam(with respect to which cams goes on what side) and look at the notch that is on both the old cam and the new one and twist tyhe new one in your hand until both are in about the same position (our notch was up at about a 45* angle) and then note the position of the lobes and they should match up roughly. Thats just to check to make sure you have the correct cam shaft and everything will line up.

    Now, take a wrench (forgot which size) and a hammer and TAP the cam bolt gear loose. (if you try and just pull it, it will turn the motor) Take the bolt ALL the way out and put it some where as you wont be reusing it. Go over all the bolts that hold the cam in place and break them loose (dont un do them), now have your helper take hold of the vise and make sure he holds pressure UP with respect to the motor....not much pressure is needed, just make sure it doesnt go down any. Take a hammer and tap the cam gear forward until it just pops off the cam (there is no force and it doesnt get in a bind). Now remove the cam holers and set them asside, cam should just pick right out without much effort. MAKE SURE YOU WATCH THE LITTLE SPACER THAT IS BETWEEN THE CAM AND THE CAM GEAR, AND DONT LET IT FALL DOWN THE MOTOR....THEN PUT IT ON THE NEW CAM SO YOU DONT LOOSE IT.

    Now, take the correct cam (RH) and put some of the green (we used) or the red startup should be thinker than regular oil...and rub the cam down with it after you have wiped most of the card bord off (collected from the box it came in). The slide the cam down into the slots and MAKE SURE YOUR ROCKER ARMS ARE ALL ON. Line the notch on the cam with the notch in the cam gear as best you can. Put the front cam holder (there are 2 for each in the rear and one on the front) on and crew all the bolts into it. but only snug down the first 4 until the front of the cam is sucked into position and there is no gap between the cam holer and the head. Now your helpers job is almost over. Take a look at the notch on the cam vs where its at on the gear.(BE SURE TO MAKE SURE YOUR SPACER IS ON THE CAM) It should be close, but the cam twists when its pulled into position. Now put the socket back onto the crank bolt and turn the motor the little bit to get the notch to line up perfectly. Now get a screwdriver and help pry the cam gear up and towards the cam as your helper trys to pull the gear up and toward the cam (prolly wont go on W/O a hammer...just pull it up till it touches) confirm that both the nothes are lined up, as well as the hole in the gear is even with the round cam, and then get a hammer and tap it up onto the gear.(again, make sure the spacer is we didnt for get it LOL) Now your helpers job is done and he can let go. Now put the rear cam holder on and follow the torque sequence that over on to tighten them all down. Then put the supplied bolt into the front of the cam...remember, thats what holds the gear onto the cam.

    Do the EXACT same thing to the other side and get TDC again just for grins. Also instead of using vice grips, you must use a C clamp to hold the cam gear up...basically your helper will be standing right next to you holding the clamp. This time around, these cam gears dont have any holes in thats the reason for the C clamp, and also why there is not way to secure the chain. SO, make sure your helper REALLY keeps a nice bit of tention on the gear (pulling towards himself) to keep it from slipping down and jumping a tooth.

    BEFORE YOU REASEMBLE EVERYTHING, TAKE THAT SOCKET, PUT IT ON THE CRANK AND TURN THE MOTOR OVER 2 COMPLETE TURNS TO CHECK CLEARANCE. The white out will not line back up BTW, we turned it over 4+ times and it never lined back up perfectly...the chain is so long that it will probably take a WHILE for it to line up again.

    Now for reassembly, you will ahve to cut the stock gasket loose from the heads because frod used RTV sealant where the front cover meets the heads....and it basically sticks the a razor blade under it to free it. Be sure to NOT cut the gasket though, only the RTV. Put some RTV dabbs into the slots on the valve covers where the gasket fits up in there. Then take the little rubber washer things and plug them back into the holes. These hold the gasket in place and make for a snug fit for the bolts. (We lost one for a while, a few dropped out when removing the valve cover and one happened to drop on the K member...for a while we thought it may have dropped between the front cover and the engine and maybe fell into the oil pan.. Thank God it didnt). then use the same technique to put the valve covers back on...paying special attention to the gasket, and pushing it back in place when needed. Put your bolts and studs back into the valv covers, paying attention to where a stud is needed to clip the harness back onto. Reasemble everything that you removed (I removed the fluid holder for the power steering just to make it easier), then go ahead and fire it up. :banana:

    I cranked it up, let it run for a minute....shut it off for 10sec and cranked it back up, then let it get to normal temp. Car sounds pretty good, but its not radicle and DEFINATLY DDABLE. Outside of the car, you would have to be listening to notice the cam...inside you can hear it better and feel the car shaking. But maybe its just my exhaust...its VERY quite at idle. Me and my dad hopped in the car and I stalled it 2-3 times just backing out of the drive way....-1000 RPM torque was GONE. But we unplugged the battery early on to reset the EEC, so i think that effected it. After i got down to the intersection it seemed better and wasnt trying to die as bad at low RPMs.

    TIME STARTED WAS ABOUT 3:30 PM, FINISHED AT AROUND 12AM. That includes going to town for about an hour to get a deep well (sp) 5/16 1/4inch drive socket (NEEDED), a few other sockets, and some food for my mom and/or sister to cook while we worked. (sister was over also with her 4 children). And also about an hour break to eat the food after it was cooked.
    Took about 7hours total. Thats with us, for the most part, taking our time as we have never changed cams in a SOHC type motor before.

    This is not an install for the "adverage" Joe, you really have to understand how you engine works and have a good understanding of the internal combustion engine. Big difference from putting a CAI or a plenum on LOL. If you feel confident in you mechanical skills and follow my instructions (not that mine are perfect LOL, but it worked for us) you should be fine. 2 man job FOR SURE when not taking off the front cover (which would be a pain...just time consuming really).

    BAD PART! Took it down the highway and turned around at another intersection to go back up the very steep hill, ran up to around 4K (part throttle...wont hit it, until the tune) in 1st and 2nd, pushed in the clutch to hit 3rd and half way down, we hear a "POP" and my clutch pedal hits the floor. Im like WHAT!!! In neutral, wont go into gear with the car running. check under my dash, cable still hooked up, popped the hood and my adjuster that we just reinstalled is still in place. :shrug: Roll back down the hill, turn around to where its kinda still down hill (dad pushes to get it going), still cant match speeds with the tranny and wont go. SO I shut the car off and put it into 2nd (like my dad suggested just after it happened, before we let it roll back down the hill). I go to crank and nothing...forgot about the sensor...was thinking in reverse for some reason..that I had to let off the pedal for it to crank LOL. My dad reminds me almost instantly, so I push the clutch pedal down and start it up. Drive back home in 2nd for about 2 miles (3K). Popped it in neutral as we came to the stopping point...shut the car down....and here I am LOL. I think when we romoved the adjuster, it let it come loose from the tranny fork and was barely holding on. I just thank God my dad was with me, it would have taken me a while to figue out what to do LOL.

    Anyways a BIG thanks goes out God for allowing us to get this done. Another BIG thanks goes out to my dad (head mechanic on all my projects...been working on motors since he was a kid....knows what he is doing) and another BIG thanks goes out to...ME LOL :D (the helper :nice: ) for writing all this up and doing alot of hands on work on this instal (guess about 35/65...not bad for a helper i guess :shrug: ), some on every instal, and all on a few installs. Thank for reading. :) Time to go to bed now.
  2. You loosened the cam caps with the rockers all still in place? And also installed and tightened the caps the same way?? Hmm. I thought that was a no-no.

    BTW, did anyone happen to see Horsepower TV on Spike this last weekend (7/23-24/05)? They had an 02 MGT they put Crane (I think) cams in. Went from 229 to 240 at the wheels though they didn't show the plots. I was curious about their method of removing and installing the rockers -- just prying them out without using any special tool and, after collapsing the lifters, installing them pretty much the same way.
  3. I saw the horsepower TV show, They made that look easy!
    the car they had was an auto, They would of seen more hp if it was 5spd.
  4. sweet! :nice: when you going to get that beast dynoed again?
  5. Get your hummer fixed?
  6. lol nope, haven't had a chance to mess with it yet.. been putting the gears in :nice:
  7. I'm very curious to see what it was......(not to hijack this thread)!

    hm331: it's cool you thank the Maker.... :)
  8. Thanks guys. I doubt anyone read that all the way through LOL, but about it being EASILY DDable....I need to modify that statement a little after driving it more. Ok the -1000RPM torque has almost fully returned, and everytime I drive the car, it gets stronger and stronger. In part throttle it feels just as strong as before, and sometime when you first drive it, quite abit stronger than normal. The idle lope is also getting better I guess due to the idle RPMs changing. NOW, if you do alot of stopand go traffic driving, I personally wouldnt recommend them. In ANY gear at 100RPMs the car jerks and bucks from the lope...started in 1st at idle..started bucking, shifted to 2nd (still at idle) and when the rpms got back up to 800-1000 it started jerking pretty violently LOL, had to hit the gas. If you do alot of highway, it will be fine. And yes, I always thank God for everything....look at my sig LOL.
  9. I saw it. They took the front cover off which makes the cam swap fool proof.

    They took the cam followers out using a screwdriver to pry up on the follower which is OK. Using the valve spring compressor tool would be better.
  10. Did you get it tuned? Maybe that would help with stop and go traffic. :shrug:
  11. Cody, i actually read that whole write-up. fine job you did! :nice: now, go to CCS Tuning in P-ville, talk to Jim, and get that beast tuned and dyno'ed! i bet it'll fix the rough idle and jerkiness under 1k rpms. lemme know if you make an appointment, i'd love to see your numbers. and Jim is usually pretty booked for ~2 months, so make that appointment ASAP. the install def sounded do'able. if you dont mind answering the ever-lingering question, how much did you end up paying for everything? and did you buy springs too? i think when i do cams im gonna do the valve springs just for some cheap $200 insurance. but im gonna go w/ stg II though :hail2:
  12. Simply awesome dude, thx for taking the time to write it up.
  13. My cams are being installed RIGHT NOW as i type this, vt stage 1s and im getting it dyno tuned also so i will have some numbers for u tomorrow. :D
  14. u better post them tomarrow like u said or i will hunt you down and strap your car to a dyno myself
  15. yeah get those numbers posted cause i'm planning on getting some vt stg 1 cams so i wanna see the numbers on those puppies. :banana:
  16. I swear i will, trust me i cant wait myself
  17. did you just get cams, or valve springs too? how much for parts and install?

  18. a tune will take care of that. mine did that a lil before it got tuned. afterwards it was good to go :nice:

  19. if you bring the mustang with your friends TT to chattanooga, we can take care of that install in my garage while you're here ;)