Intake ?/help

[kendawg73]

So, I went to put the explorer intake I have on my rebuilt motor... so I can get ready to put it back in car...

couple of things concern me... first... around the coolant ports on the ends... 1 or 2 seem to have a little rut, so I'm wondering if this will not seal right, and if I should use just a very, very thing coating, of sealant around the ports, just on the intake itself? (pictures attached) btw - I have the Ford Racing Graphite Intake Gaskets M-9439-G50 the first pic, this the worst of the 4.

also, I drilled and tapped the 2 holes, 1 for the EGR coolant line in the back, and the Air temp sensor, but, I ran the tap all the way through... I found out later that you don't do that with that kind of tap... so the fittings will run all the way down ... there loose at first, but do tighten up, but again.. they can't go any further since there bottoming out on intake. not sure if the liquid thread sealant will seal up.. more worried about the coolant one.

and 3rd, I tried to put the coolant tube in that runs to the heater core... didn't seem to tread in all the way... so that worries me... what size tap would this be so I can chase/re-tap the threads?

 

[Steel1]

I've always put a thin coating of RTV around the coolant ports.
I would use liquid sealant on those sensors, should be fine.
Not sure on thread size for heater tube, sorry but someone will know.

 

[kendawg73]

I've always put a thin coating of RTV around the coolant ports.
I would use liquid sealant on those sensors, should be fine.
Not sure on thread size for heater tube, sorry but someone will know.

Just between the instake and gasket right? your not putting in under the gasket also are you? are do you use the ultra black, or one of the other ones (blue, gray) not sure if one was better then the other for coolant.

 

[Steel1]

Just between the instake and gasket right? your not putting in under the gasket also are you? are do you use the ultra black, or one of the other ones (blue, gray) not sure if one was better then the other for coolant.

Usually use "right stuff or ultra black" and smear a thin coating around the coolant ports on the head and intake surface, don't need much.

 

[kendawg73]

Usually use "right stuff or ultra black" and smear a thin coating around the coolant ports on the head and intake surface, don't need much.

is it ok to use on the Graphite gasket? (it's the ford racing gasket, which I think is the explorer one). Or should I use some jb weld put very very thin layer in damage/pitted area on the intake surface, around coolant ports and sand smooth/flat?

 

[Steel1]

is it ok to use on the Graphite gasket? (it's the ford racing gasket, which I think is the explorer one). Or should I use some jb weld put very very thin layer in damage/pitted area on the intake surface, around coolant ports and sand smooth/flat?

I've always used Felpro or Flat out, composite gaskets, I would imagine it would be ok on graphite as well.
Imo I wouldn't use JB weld, just silicone and gaskets, but again that's me.

 

[a91what]

No do not touch that with sand paper. A very slight smear of rtv on both sides of the gasket around the coolant ports is all thats needed. Proper torque of bolts in the correct sequence will provide adequate seal.

 

[jrichker]

Intake manifold installation tips:

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put a piece of cardboard in the lifter valley to cover it up. It will reduce the amount that falls down into the valley and hydraulic lifters. I suggest that you make good use of a shop vac while you are scraping and cleaning to avoid getting the old gasket material lost inside the engine. Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out.

a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

If you reuse the injectors from your old setup, a repair kit is available from most auto parts stores if needed. Coat the injector body "O" rings with oil before you use them and everything will slide back together.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3.50 - $4.00 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber.

Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs