Discussion in '2005 - 2014 Specific V6 Tech' started by LIZARDKING, Dec 30, 2005.

  1. Here's an interesting read on heat absorbtion of metal vs plastic intakes on AEM's website. Basically, there's so much air going through an intake tube that it never really has time to heat up.
  2. [​IMG]Any comments on these Street Smart Design V6 Mustang intakes?

    claims: Carbon Fiber Pattern Cold Air Box, Hand Polished Stainless Steel Powerflow Intake Tube, Mass Airflow Sensor Housing, P/S Pump Offset Bracket, Hardware, RF-1015 Filter. [system will require a reflash]
  3. I have a hard time believing that one... Why do guys ice down their tube? Why does my car run better when the tube is colder? I mean think about the air cooled motors, especially motorcycles doing 100MPH... the air must absorb some heat... right???

    Of course I no idea...

    hmmm.... one of these days I'll have to hook up my laptop and x-cal2 and see if I can figure this out.... LOL

  4. I have that kit as well, my car goes in the shop on Thursday and I get it back on Friday. I will do a write up with dynos once I get it back. The TI hardware is high quality and am anxious to see what it can do over my AFE.
  5. You have to read the AEM article carefully.

    In it it states that materials of higher thermal conductivity will transfer more heat @ PART THROTTLE OPENINGS.

    If the engineer is correct that @ WOT throttle settings the air is traveling too fast for material to matter then the metal will not show any disadvantage.

    But lets be REALISTIC....are you more concerned about materials @ WOT on the dyno or the envirornment that you will REALLY be operating the Mustang in ???

    Will you be in summer traffic? Will you experience stop and go driving? Will you be sitting at the staging area of the track at less than WOT?

    How much of the time will you be at WOT ? 10 % ??

    The plastics are insulators. They will not pass the same intake heat as a conductor at the throttle settings you'll be at 90 % of the time.

    Imagine how heavy the metal would be @ 3/8" thick but it wouldn't even matter not being an insulator!!!

    I use the 1/4" thick ABS, 3M coat it, and then add REAL CARBON FIBER.
    (NOTE: REAL carbon fiber, as some of these that say 'carbon fiber look' are not going to attain the same properties as THE REAL CARBON FIBER.) They are MARKETING A LOOK. BIG F***ING DEAL!!

    You can add thickness with an insulator while NOT adding appreciable weight and provide a FAR TOUGHER AND SUPERIOR insulative system.

    It kills me when I see a metal heat shield even referred to as a HEAT SHIELD.

    My polycarbonate shields are FAR MORE EXPENSIVE than a piece of aluminum.

    BUT THEY ARE A REAL HEAT SHIELD, not a heat conductor.

    The bottom line is that the average engine compartment is going to attain heat levels around 150 degrees. The last thing you want is a metal heat conductor.

    Metal can condensate and corrode unless powder coated.

    Plastic will NEVER condensate or corrode. Plastic, not being a conductor will also cool and maintain cooler temps with even 'idle' airflow, and at just PART THROTTLE openings.

    Don't go with a 'shine' or a 'look' go with the best performing COLD AIR INTAKE.

    AND this is at a $ 100. price advantage with tunes performed by SCT on their dyno specific to my system. All 3 octane tunes are now included and the optional SCT cable for future tunes.

    If just the heat shield made a significant difference in the shootout, what about the system itself??