Is the Clutch suppost to be that Stiff?

nightcap

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Apr 15, 2010
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First thing...no that's what she said jokes. :D

I can drive my Stang just fine but it takes some effort pushing that clutch in all day long in traffic. After driving my Stang, I thought my clutch on my ranger was broken because my foot kept slamming into the floor. Between each gear you'd hear the thump of the clutch peddle hit the floor. It took me 15 - 20 minutes to get used to being gentle on the easy clutch of the Ranger.

Which finally brings me to my question. Do all the gt's clutches take 200 lbs of pressure to get them to the floor? Is this something that can be modded or is it something I need to leave well enough alone?
 
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What kind of clutch and pressure plate does the car have? The pressure plate is the main factor that determines the pedal force. If someone installed an aftermarket clutch and pressure plate, then the effort could be higher. Basically, the stronger the pressure plate, the more power the clutch will hold, but it makes the clutch petal heavier.
With an OEM/stock clutch, it shouldn't take much effort. I'd say you don't have a stock clutch. Mine is firm, but easy to manage in traffic. Anyone with a working leg should be able to manage the stock clutch, and it will hold all the power a naturally aspirated combination could make. If I had to make a wild ass guess, maybe it takes 20-30lbs of force to push in the stock clutch? Of course, the clutch pedal in a mustang is and should be quite a bit more firm than your ranger, or any honda. In non-performance applications, they go to great lengths to make the clutch so soft that any old woman could drive with ease, which gives up all driving feel. But from your description, either you are very small and weak, or you have an aftermarket pressure plate. ;)
 
Replace the cable - I had one that rusted inside and it was a pain to push...blamed the clutch/PP, but it turned out to be just the cable...cheap azz cable...(USE AN OEM CABLE!)
 
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What kind of clutch and pressure plate does the car have? The pressure plate is the main factor that determines the pedal force. If someone installed an aftermarket clutch and pressure plate, then the effort could be higher. Basically, the stronger the pressure plate, the more power the clutch will hold, but it makes the clutch petal heavier.
With an OEM/stock clutch, it shouldn't take much effort. I'd say you don't have a stock clutch. Mine is firm, but easy to manage in traffic. Anyone with a working leg should be able to manage the stock clutch, and it will hold all the power a naturally aspirated combination could make. If I had to make a wild ass guess, maybe it takes 20-30lbs of force to push in the stock clutch? Of course, the clutch pedal in a mustang is and should be quite a bit more firm than your ranger, or any honda. In non-performance applications, they go to great lengths to make the clutch so soft that any old woman could drive with ease, which gives up all driving feel. But from your description, either you are very small and weak, or you have an aftermarket pressure plate. ;)

The stock clutch pedal is more like 45 lbs. And everybody that has driven my car, has said that it has a really heavy clutch... don't kid yourself, the stock GT clutch pedal is far stiffer than 99% of the cars on the road. Every time I see one of these threads I hear "oh if it feels really stiff it must be aftermarket"... I just can't see all these cars driving around with near stock drivetrains and extra heavy duty clutches... just not buying it.
 
Stock clutch feels normal to me but I'm used to old American iron and European cars. If you're used to Japanese clutches then a Mustang feels like doing 350lb leg presses - I've nearly put my foot through the floorpan in a Honda before :D

A stock clutch shouldn't be unbearable but if you're coming from imports then it may take some getting used to. I bet with its Mazda heritage, that Ranger is more on the Asian side of the clutch stiffness scale than the 1977 F100 side of the scale.
 
Yeah, my ranger's clutch can be depressed with an empty shoe. Feather weight is an understatement.

Don't get me wrong, I like the performance of my GT's clutch. Burning them off has never been easier. It's not so much that my leg gets tired but my foot gets a bit sore after a slow commute.

Guess I'll have to look into hard soled boots or something.

Or commute in my Ranger and save the Stang for fun time.
 
I absolutely love the stock clutch in my Mach. It has the most predictable engagement I've ever had in a stick car. My Focus, I can't get use to that clutch even 5 years later after I bought it. I nearly stall it all the time and every now and then I actually do. :nonono:
 
That is the hugest difference from cable vs. hydraulic. I test drove a Z06 and was amazed how a aftermarket clutch felt in that thing. Driving my buddies' S2000 and Civic's, they think I'm going to punch a hole in the floorboard because it feels so off and broken.

But they get in my car and say that my RAM Powergrip is too much to drive daily, yet I do.
 
I think one of the most important questions no one has asked yet is how many miles are on the car. Most people don't replace the clutch on their cars before they sell it. If the stock clutch is in there it can get VERY heavy when its at the end of its life. Check your carpeting, both the floor mat and under to see if it is beat up where the clutch pedal would contact it when its all the way depressed. You clutch may simply be worn.

I'd also adjust the clutch. It wont make it easier to press but it will adjust the engagement point to the appropriate level (if there is room for adjustment left).

If you are going to replace the clutch cable then I would go ahead and get the Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster kit. Comes with a new cable, firewall adjuster and an upgraded quadrent.
 
I think one of the most important questions no one has asked yet is how many miles are on the car. Most people don't replace the clutch on their cars before they sell it. If the stock clutch is in there it can get VERY heavy when its at the end of its life. Check your carpeting, both the floor mat and under to see if it is beat up where the clutch pedal would contact it when its all the way depressed. You clutch may simply be worn.

I'd also adjust the clutch. It wont make it easier to press but it will adjust the engagement point to the appropriate level (if there is room for adjustment left).

If you are going to replace the clutch cable then I would go ahead and get the Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster kit. Comes with a new cable, firewall adjuster and an upgraded quadrent.

Yeah, My carpet is beat by the clutch pedal. My car has 94,000 miles. Probably could use a new cable. I think you are right about what's replaced or not when you buy a car that has had a few owners. I think I am the 6th owner of my ride, and it worries me sometimes.
 
I think one of the most important questions no one has asked yet is how many miles are on the car.

Yup.

If you are going to replace the clutch cable then I would go ahead and get the Maximum Motorsports firewall adjuster kit. Comes with a new cable, firewall adjuster and an upgraded quadrent.

Yup again. If I were in his situation, this is what I'd do.

:flag:
 
I'm willing to bet you have your factory clutch still in there. My Mach 1 has 97000+ miles on its factory clutch and I'm shopping for a badly needed replacement. It doesn't slip but it burns way too easy lately and the pedal is quite hard.

Anything over 80000 miles is awesome.

I'd recommend either a stock replacement clutch or a McLeod for you.
 
Clutch drops won't hurt you too badly, because the tires immediately start spinning instead of heating up the clutch. A few 3500rpm clutch slips at the track will do though. :D

Seriously, the stock clutch is pretty durable. The first clutch the 97 had lasted 90k miles and was only replaced because everything was apart for replacing the throwout bearing. The current clutch has gone about 85k miles of hardcore abuse: 34 passes at the track, slipping the clutch around 3000-3500rpm, countless street launched, power shifting often, and plenty of in town driving, while using the gears to slow down.

I must not do enough clutch drops. My clutch still had life left in it at 125K when the TOB disentigrated :D
 
When I got my stang the first thing I noticed was the clutch pedal was stiff. I am use to it now and its not so stiff to make my leg sore or what not, but it is by far the stiffest clutch pedal I have had. I would expect that from a sports car though, my other 5spds were trucks (dakota, ranger, and silverado), a civic, celica, and a 91 eclipse.

Oh and as far as a durable clutch, I sold my civic with 175k with the orig clutch, and my celica had 210k with the orig clutch when I got rid of it.

6 owners is alot, but some people buy and sell cars all the time, I have a neighbor that has had 6 cars in the last 2 years...he takes really good care of them but I think he just gets tired of them. Sports cars are cars that seem to get passed around alot....people buy them and a year later they want something bigger, so I wouldn't worry too much about being the 6th owner.