Is there anyway to increase horsepower cheap?

jhonda

Member
Jul 22, 2003
125
1
16
Huntersville NC
I know this is dumb and will probley regret asking it hear, but Is there anyway to increase compression without decking the heads or diff. pistons....maybe a thiner gasket? I am looking for more power with little money, I have already increased the timing to 15degrees with 93 octane, put a k&n filter in, and a catback, I have a offroad pipe on order. I don't know how much pulleys will gain you at the wheels but I know they are cheap (on that note do we need a balancer on our cranks, is there any pulleys that come with them or are all of them piggybacks) I am use to the 4.6liters that are alot differant from these motors. I plan on big power later with a top end kit (trick flow, or eldelbrock) but don't have alot of money now. I was also thinking about a bigger Maf sensor, throttle body with spacer (70mm), but I don't know how much power is to gain from these either. Any suggestions on where to start?
 
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On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$120. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.

*1.) metal flange adapter
http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html

Buy the TR70 for $44.95.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
jhonda said:
Do I need to have the Maf sensor calibrated to my stock 19lb injectors or is it just a plug and play? Do I just take one from the junkyard put my MAF sensor in the stock junkyard housing...explain?
Thanks
Jason

Any of the MAFs in jrichker's list are Plug and Play. You do not need to swap the sensors.
 
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...



94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

*1.) metal flange adapter
http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html

Buy the TR70 for $44.95.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,

1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,

Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

i'll try to borrow one off of my buddys 3.8 mustang, bit if i am not able to i can use one off of a 93-94 continental?
 
stock90GT said:
i'll try to borrow one off of my buddys 3.8 mustang, bit if i am not able to i can use one off of a 93-94 continental?

If the MAF on the car has the number F2VF-12B579-A2A on it then you can use it. No other number is Plug And Play. Another number may fit the harness and the car may run but you will be giving up optimal performance since the MAF is designed for a different fuel curve than the Fox Mustang has.

There are usually at least a couple of the correct MAFs on eBay. I got mine there for under $50. Just make sure you have the seller confirm the correct number.

Additionally you will have to modify or buy something to get anything but the original MAF to fit your car. See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=616246 for a couple of different methods of getting the 70mm MAF to fit where a 55mm MAF once was.
 
I already had a CAI, and I just bought a C&L 73mm mass air meter off ebay for like $50. I had to buy a calibration tube for the stock 19# injectors for $30. I could notice a decent jump in power. Nothing mind blowing but it was definitely noticeable. When you see the factory mass air next to an aftermarket one, you wonder what was ford thinking with such a restriction.
 
Make sure you're not spending money twice, if you know what you'll be buying later, get matching parts.
For example, if you plan on buying an intake manifold with a 70mm inlet later, get at least that size now.
Used will save you money, especially on parts that don't wear out like a MAF sensor housing.
Pullies
Short belt (bypass smog pump)
remove air silencer from fenderwell if using an air box
Cold air intake/MAF/TB/EGR
Weight reduction, especially on track day, battery relocation
Gears - as jrichker suggested
headers - since you'll have the rest of the exhaust done
electric fan or just remove the clutch fan on race day and reinstall bolts on water pump (minimal increase)