Is this clutch wear normal (Pics)

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by ForPointSex, Nov 6, 2007.

  1. Does thie McLeod clutch disc look normal with the inner ridges not worn?
    Flywheel side:
    Pressure Plate Side:

    If anyone is interested:

    I've installed a McLeod Stage 2 clutch kit from Maximum Motorsports about a year ago on my 2002 Mustang Gt with the TR-3650 transmission. As soon as I installed it, the clutch would not release all the way once the car was warmed up. I would have to force it into 1st from neutral at a stop light. I checked by jacking up the rear and the wheels would spin when I pressed the clutch in. I added a UPR triple hook and steeda firewall adjuster. Still would not release. Last month my 3rd gear started grinding so I purchased a rebuilt TR-3650 and installed a Centerforce Dual Friction kit. I think the inner ridges of the McLeod clutch disc kept some friction on the transmission and it would not disenguage correctly.

    Attached Files:

  2. No offense, but something must have gone wrong during the install. Did you turn the flywheel? Was the cable in good shape? T/O Bearing? Did you use the clutch alignment tool?

    I know these seem like stupid questions but it never ceases to amaze me how many times people skip simple and important steps.
  3. First I have the same questions as SVT32VDOHC.
    Three new questions. How many miles / races are on the disc? What is the compressed disc thickness and how does that compare to what a new FORD disc is? When the pressure plate seats on the disc how much of the disc lining shows inside of the plate? About the amount that looks new? See black square in picture.


    Edited: I when back and looked at the pictures again and realized that is the flywheel side of the disc. Can you post pictures of the flywheel and pressure plate?
  4. I got the flywheel turned at a machine shop. I used an alignment tool. The cable seemed to be good and I've replaced it (From dealer) when it didn't want to release completely. Brand new ford TOB, clutch lever, and pivot ball. I've also used the spacer McLeod provided. The inner raised part is how it looked new.

    I've took to the the track 8 times. I only put 20k miles on the clutch.

    On the pictures above, the very first picture is the flywheel side, the 2nd is the pressure plate side.


    Attached Files:

  5. That is not normal wear. For one that clutch was getting hot look at all the heat marks in both the flywheel and the presure plate. that inner ridge is not normal either.

    The wear of the clutch almost looks like the wrong clutch was used.. Like a 10.5 clutch on a 11 inch flywheel... but that should be impossible since the 10.5 clutch will not bolt up to a 11 inch flywheel.
  6. As svttech76 said the wear is not normal. It looks like the wrong clutch was used. You can see the wear on the flywheel goes all the way to the mounting hole. When you look it the flywheel side of the clutch you can see it overlapped this hole which is a no no. can you measure the diameter of the clutch?
  7. I agree with svttech, the first thing I noticed was the hot spots. Did you by any chance get contaminants on the parts when installing. greasy fingers will burn up a clutch fast.
  8. I have the exact same kit. Did you install the shim as per the instructions?

    "Installation note: Ford used non-conventional 11" clutch disks that were .270" thick on these cars, along with a pressure plate designed for a .270" disc thickness. McLeod produces all their disks to the standard conventional Ford thickness of .310". McLeod 11" clutch systems therefore require the use of the supplied shim between the pressure plate and flywheel. This allows the Ford-style pressure plate in these clutch packages to function properly with the .310" thick McLeod 11" disk"
  9. I've installed the McLeod clutch myself so I'm 100% sure there wasn't any contaminents. I cleaned it with brake fluid to remove any oil spots from fingers.

    I did use the shim provided.

    Here's the measurments of the clutch disc:


    The clutch pads seem to be exactly the same on both sides.
  10. I drew up the sizes in Autocad and the clutch disc goes inside the holes on both sides:



    Attached Files:

  11. Assuming you purchased the kit from MM, have you called or emailed them about this ?

    I also installed it about a year and a half ago and track the car regularly . The only symptom I have is hard putting it into first gear when the car is hot but I've read about that complaint in another thread thinking it is a 3650 issue.

  12. Putting the car into 1st from a stop is not a 3650 issue. I have a centerforce clutch kit in my car now and it goes into 1st fine. It also went in fine with the stock clutch.

    Lift up the rear tires off the ground, start your car, put it in 1st gear and watch the wheels spin. It's a clutch issue. I wasted time trying a quadrant and firewall adjuster; none helped.
  13. I bought a McLeod clutch/PP combo from Promotion powertarin. The clutch I have looks different though. On the flywheel side it's the same, but the PP side has pucks instead of the full ring of material. Flywheel is a fidanza aluminum. I also went with a 10.5" setup instead of an 11".

    Anyways, I have no issues putting the car into gear when hot and I have a 3650.

    To me, it looks like the problem is that they gave you a 10.5" clutch and an 11" PP. If that's the case, does anyone know if the 10.5" clutches are thicker?

    If so, that would make sense because:

    1) A 10.5" clutch on an 11" flywheel would show those signs of wear (i.e. no wear on the inside)
    2) If the 10.5" clutch disc is thicker then this would prevent it from fully disengaging causing your hard 1st gear engagements..

    However, what it doesn't explain is why it looks as though there is full engagement on the PP.

  14. hands down you got the wrong disc, 11 inchs is exactly 11, and 10.5 is exactly 10.5 no in between. was the kit sealed in a vacuum sealed plastic. if not you could have a mix matched bunch of bulls(%t, its happened before and itll happen again. i just went through a clutch install myself earlier this week, king cobra baby i love it. so far great clutch for the money, and yes it was sealed in the plastic.
  15. UPDATE

    I removed my tranny today, the Mcleod clutch is finished with 5 000 miles on it. So much for buying quality :( .

    Before anyone questions my driving, I've been driving stick for 25 years (yes I'm that old) and have never had to replace a clutch because of wear. I installed this one when the TSB for the tranny was being done. The original was in excellent condition but I figured I'd install a "better" clutch. Ya right.

    Stay away from Mcleod. Going to try a center force now:rolleyes:.
  16. I've seen tons of threads just like your post, having to replace a brand new aftermarket clutch after just a few thousand miles. Are they being installed wrong, some of the clutches are just crap, or are the parts getting mixed up? :shrug:
  17. This is an interesting discussion. OP can you please update us? Did you get the problem solved?

    On a similar note, what is the accepted method of cleaning the clutch disc before installation? Brake parts cleaner? Billy Mays' Oxi-clean? (that's just a joke) It seems that it'd be easy to accidentally get your dirty/greasy fingers on the disc during install, so what is a good way to clean it off?
  18. I use brake cleaner and clean rubber gloves when doing the install.
  19. Looks like wrong PP FD combo. I have a Fidanza alum flywheel and 11" Centerforce DF. NOTE: This 11" clutch will not work with a stock GT flywheel. The aluminum flywheel has provisions for either the 10.5 or 11". I've had no problems with this clutch and heard nothing negative about them. I would give it a shot.
  20. Got the new clutch in today. Goes into first gear SO EASY now. It wasn't the tranny after all.

    Thanks to ForPointSex for starting this thread.