Iskwezm's turbo kit

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 10secgoal, Aug 3, 2007.

  1. well heres the list:
    polished turbo-$670.00 shipped
    Tial BOV and W/G- $440.00
    Polished EV hat-$220
    Turbo blanket(ordered)- $120
    new exhaust 3"-$175- not including a 4" Borla i had laying around

    plus misc. stuff.
    add to that a fuel system and carb, i have about $2200 in parts

    you do the math, i dont want to, but probably about 5K.................i didnt even have that :jaw:

    im thinking higher:nice:
  2. You're on a stock block right?.....Next thread of yours will be ....oh **** I pushed it above 500 and now I have two halves of a block :p

    Just playing.

    That's what scares me about the turbo route on my semi stock bottom end. Not to mention the amount of money I'm gonna have to spend just to get it to handle the power.

    Roll cage
    New 5 leaf reverse springs
    Adjustable shocks front and rear
    620's in front
    Fuel system
    Shock tower bars
    Subframe connectors and DS hoop
    9" rear w/ a 3.25 or so gearing
    TTII rears (17X9.5 w/ 6.38 BS so I'll have to probably get .75" spacers)
    MT or Hoosier 275/40R17's for the rear.....
    New radiator w/ new Spal dual blades
    Colder plugs
    Cometic HG's

    I think that about covers it....oh and probably a B&M ratchet shifter instead of the stock '69 shifter. The C4 is already built to handle up to around 600 w/ a 2800 stall.

    God this is gonna be expensive. 10sec....I hope you're still alive by the time I get around to ordering the kit :p

    Here's the spreadsheet.....:( And to top it off that doesn't even include labor time or shipping costs....****...


    Attached Files:

  3. thats nothing, ill show you a stack of reciepts for about $40k and agarage of extra parts...........................but dont tell my g/f that:p
  4. Well...that's not including all the **** I've already done to the Stang in about 8 years. I agree mine's probably easily in the 30-40 range and growing. Frickin ridiculous. Well I won't tell your g/f if you don't tell my fiance. Deal? :p
  5. Don't worry too much about the power. This form is much easier than others on bottom ends. TONS of guys go 10's with bone stock everything in their motors. THe next 65 customer has a monte carlo bar also. I hate you guys. :)
  6. Oh, the next onne also wants a stock hood. So I'll let you know. It'll probably fit with a low rise sinlge plain intake.
  7. who's the next one???
  8. Hehe, I'll take pics. It's another good looking car. One of our other customers that came in every two days looking at yours. :) He didn't understand the whole speed thing. Thought 300 was enough for him. Took a ride in Rich's and that's was all it took. But when you spend 17g's in paint, you can just decide to drop that kinda money. It'll take a little while because he wants a little at a time so the wife doesn't figure it out. He gets cash from jobs. I swear, I'm gonna end up in a dumpster one day if this sneeking around junk keeps up. I'll throw some pics up later.
  9. :rlaugh:

    If we make to the show Sunday, i wont point you out:nice:
  10. LOL. Well I'm hoping to go w/ a 3.5" cowl hood but then one has pics of a '69 coupe w/ one.

    As for thing I've learned in the horsepower realm of'll never have enough to keep ya smiling but it takes very little to keep ya from dying.
  11. Good, cause if I smell coolant when we dyno it, I'm turning it down a little. don't care if it's only 420rwhp.:p
  12. We are still waiting for vids :)

    Also is there anything that can be done to the stock block to beef it up? Like a girdle in the valley pan or similar? I do recall talking to a super gas racer that had a fox in the 8s with a stock block. He said the cracking starts around the valley area and said he'd get about 30 passes out of a stock block till she blew up
  13. I wish I could find it but I'll have to explain it. It kind of works like a turnbuckle in the valley.

    You start by drilling 2 small holes in the valley, insert a pin into each hole and place each end of the turnbuckle over a pin. Then tighen the turnbuckle to apply tension to both the pins and thats it.

    It seems overly simple, but I guess it works.:shrug:

    Hopefully someone will chime in with the name of it...
  14. yeah but does it work?
  15. lol what a funny name like mr nitrous ha ha they may need the girdle

    my 351w puts out about 450 hp and 500 ft lbs of torque and I take solice in knowing the beefier 351W block will take a little more than a 5.0L, but I was thinking of a couple turbos or an S trim hanging off the front. that may put it over the edge.. . . .
  16. From everything I've read over on it sounds like a girdle is just a band aid and will simply hold your block together after it decides to you'd still be screwed. I just suggest running it til it breaks and then upgrading to a dart block.
  17. i was thinking of getting one of those valley girdles, but the place i got my engine from said they are a joke................................ and he's a dealer for them too
  18. They start cracking at the top of the main. I don't see how strengthening the block above the cam would in any way help.