Progress Thread It cranked! Does my A9L look ok? Need the computer electric gurus!!

BlakeusMaximus

Still got to try a little lube on my speedo head
Jul 12, 2017
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Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
 
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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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The best spot I've found to run wire into the engine bay is through a grommet behind the left fender. It's very hard to get to. I always remove the whole fender... but you may be able to reach it by removing the fender liner and wheel. If you look in the hinge area you might see it.

I ran a couple extra wires through mine so I wouldn't have to take the fender off to run more. Just rolled them up and hid them behind the drivers strut tower / booster area.
 
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Reddevil91

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Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
Ha will do, trying to get this all done by this weekend so I’ll post up some better pics once I get the dash all back together.
 

Reddevil91

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Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
Honestly it was actually pretty easy once I got over the wiring fear last night and just went for it. The majority of it was all just plug and play connect the dots except those oil and water which I just ended up using the included male plug then heat shrunk them and plugged them into the ground, 12v, and illumination feeds already in the wire loom, same for the led indicators and plugged them in to their correct wires. It actually came with a detailed explanation so you know what the wires are for in the P&P wire loom, so you can connect everything fairly easy, get your indicators correct. Some stuff I did away with bc I didn’t want a bunch of led indicators all over the place. What exactly is the MIL light? Is that check engine or what’s that on our cars.
 

Reddevil91

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Mar 3, 2010
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The best spot I've found to run wire into the engine bay is through a grommet behind the left fender. It's very hard to get to. I always remove the whole fender... but you may be able to reach it by removing the fender liner and wheel. If you look in the hinge area you might see it.

I ran a couple extra wires through mine so I wouldn't have to take the fender off to run more. Just rolled them up and hid them behind the drivers strut tower / booster area.
Awe man that sounds intense! Guess I’ll take a look at it.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light = Check Engine Light.

We do have a check engine light that will come on to indicate various sensor failures or issues. Not as complex as newer cars but the computer holds codes that can help with diag.
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Honestly it was actually pretty easy once I got over the wiring fear last night and just went for it. The majority of it was all just plug and play connect the dots except those oil and water which I just ended up using the included male plug then heat shrunk them and plugged them into the ground, 12v, and illumination feeds already in the wire loom, same for the led indicators and plugged them in to their correct wires. It actually came with a detailed explanation so you know what the wires are for in the P&P wire loom, so you can connect everything fairly easy, get your indicators correct. Some stuff I did away with bc I didn’t want a bunch of led indicators all over the place. What exactly is the MIL light? Is that check engine or what’s that on our cars.
This makes me happy to hear . It’s hard to explain on the internet sometimes and get the point across not sounding like an ass . I’m glad you tackled it on your own . Looks sick . Hope I was able to help some
 
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Reddevil91

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This makes me happy to hear . It’s hard to explain on the internet sometimes and get the point across not sounding like an ass . I’m glad you tackled it on your own . Looks sick . Hope I was able to help some
Appreciate it man, ha yeah I get it but I don’t get offended easily. I’m just glad I could get done. Here is a question for you or anyone else. So got all the senders plugged in decided to run everything out through the old grommet area where the original speedo cable ran through and looks really clean but i need to buy some wire loom. Anyways plugged the cluster in, cranked it and car is running like crap. Hit the battery with a multimeter I bought and reading of 11.7 only bc I noticed the volt meter not showing good charge. Hit the alternator and about the same 11.5, plugged the old cluster back in just to check bang battery 14.6 alternator 14.8, then I read through the instructions and saw this. I now a 12v source from my fans but not sure if I need to run a jumper permanently or is it just a contact the 12v source and touch it to the the green/red stripe wire and that’s it?
ADC18961-BC4A-41EB-8EDC-EB894E535C6D.jpeg
 

Reddevil91

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Permanent.

Stock cluster runs the warnin indicator with a resistor inline to the alt through the LG/R wire

IMG_2349.JPG
Ok just wasn’t sure which I needed to do. Here’s another question but I’m pretty sure I have to replace the gear off the old sensor and put it on the new one right?
CE040B58-B2B2-43D2-9F86-38C30AC9B8B3.jpeg
 

stanglx2002

CT Material here
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Yeah the alternator sensing/excite wire needs to be jumped to ignition which is the green/red wire. Without this hooked up the alternator doesn't know the car is on to charge the battery.
 
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Reddevil91

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All right guys so after many trial and errors on the fitting, I got it all together. Had to trim and shave the bezel as well the cluster slightly to make everything fit together nicely. As for the wiring I ran the wires for the senders and the speedometer out through the grommet where the old speedo cable came out of the fire wall. Got those all cleaned up, taped up, and covered with wire loom. Ran the senders underneath the intake and the speedo wires through the old route of the original cable. Now I just need to finalize the jumper wire for the alternator. I was able to re-excite the alternator and the guys from classic dash said that’s all I would need unless I unplug the battery but it appears that isn’t so, and needs something permanent as you guys stated. So what would be the best spot for a 12v source to keep all this wiring clean in your all’s opinion? Besides that I just need to calibrate the speedo and do the button routine ‘and drive the 2 miles and get that all finished. All in all I’m glad I took the challenge and didn’t back out, a little more work that I thought. Not as straight forward, but a little modification and it’s done. Still not sure if I’ll keep the monster tach but for now it’s gonna stay.
5AA3A8A6-AF5A-4B21-A4B3-C4A72E238012.jpeg
2846DFCA-7618-4B97-9CD2-844D883139C6.jpeg
FA27F5EA-BF5C-4EF1-86A2-3E0051BBBE97.jpeg
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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What is with the redundant tach for the Visually challenged that's reading twice as high as the in dash unit?
You went through all of that trouble to wire and mount those new great looking gauges, and are gonna leave that honkin Planet sized thing still in there?
I can't believe that as big as that thing is, you haven't ran over a dog or an old person yet.;)
If this isn't a drag car, I can't see the reason for it. And if this is a drag car, I can't see the reason for the new speedo and a redundant "smaller" tach.
But that's just me, and like they say,..it's your car.
 
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