Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

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I think the official name for it is coolant recovery tank, it is commonly called a puke tank, yes I would start at about half way, that puke tank looks small.
Im guessing with all the extra goodies, the tune and dyno what not olusbit being all new system it’s about right for it to suck down a bit. No leaks just got freaked out when I saw my temp get over 200.
 
I didn't see these until now:

Speaking of that.....I could use some Stangnet stickers. I have a guy that can cut them and ships cheap.@ Noobz347 how do we get stickers man ?

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Im guessing with all the extra goodies, the tune and dyno what not olusbit being all new system it’s about right for it to suck down a bit. No leaks just got freaked out when I saw my temp get over 200.

It seems like everytime I break into the cooling system, I get at least one ride afterward when an air-pocket forms right where the sending unit is located.

It's like dropping your toast when the jelly side faces the floor. :(
 
It seems like everytime I break into the cooling system, I get at least one ride afterward when an air-pocket forms right where the sending unit is located.

It's like dropping your toast when the jelly side faces the floor. :(
Ha that does suck. So here’s one cranked my car up was gonna head to a car meet up, and then the car just shuts off. Crank it up again and it starts and turns off. I check the the fuel gauge, zero pressure. I had to replace my fuel circuit or pump relay awhile back after checking with my scanner. So I popped the scanner back on got the usuall 15 and 85 since I smog deleted etc. but got 96 which I if I recall is what I got last time believe. So after the scan I cranked it on, starts up strong then I can hear the drop, I watch my fuel pressure gauge which was up to 40 then just dropped out to zero, car shuts off. Is it maybe a bad relay again?
CEA56740-D02F-4744-BC9B-FECD332FF66B.jpeg
 
Ha that does suck. So here’s one cranked my car up was gonna head to a car meet up, and then the car just shuts off. Crank it up again and it starts and turns off. I check the the fuel gauge, zero pressure. I had to replace my fuel circuit or pump relay awhile back after checking with my scanner. So I popped the scanner back on got the usuall 15 and 85 since I smog deleted etc. but got 96 which I if I recall is what I got last time believe. So after the scan I cranked it on, starts up strong then I can hear the drop, I watch my fuel pressure gauge which was up to 40 then just dropped out to zero, car shuts off. Is it maybe a bad relay again?
CEA56740-D02F-4744-BC9B-FECD332FF66B.jpeg

or a pump that has blown the internal pop-off? :shrug:

Try the paper-clip method to run the pump and see if it maintains pressure at the rail.

The other thing that comes to mind is the possibility of a faulty fuel regulator. Pull the vacuum line and see if it smells like gas or worse, leaks gas when you pull it.
 
or a pump that has blown the internal pop-off? :shrug:

Try the paper-clip method to run the pump and see if it maintains pressure at the rail.

The other thing that comes to mind is the possibility of a faulty fuel regulator. Pull the vacuum line and see if it smells like gas or worse, leaks gas when you pull it.
Not sure what the paper clip method is but I’m about to YouTube. I’m just tired of this car always letting me down. It’s always something, every time I’m about to head to a meet or show I back out and basically can never get anywhere. I always have that unease of am gonna leave pint A and make it to b-c-d and get back to point A. I just want it to be reliable and after all this motor work, fuel upgrades etc it’s just been a PITA instead of running dependably. I’ll check the pressure reg which is new to and a an adjustable kirban.
 
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I know what you mean.

Of course, any link in the chain on a 30 year old car can be what bites you in the rear end. Hell, there's even a few traces in the instrument cluster that can stop the whole car under certain conditions. :rlaugh:

For this kind of issue, all I can say is to look at the entire fuel system from end to end. There's really not a ton to it and you can prove out sections of it at a time. Try and bullet proof everything as you go.

I had fuel and ignition gremlins when I added my blower. I beefed up portions of each and got it all back up to snuff. Swapping that blower onto the blower revealed even more weaknesses and required more bullet proofing.

Once I got those things ironed out, the chassis and brakes begin to reveal their weaknesses.

We don't have these kinds of issues until we start pushing these 225 CHP cars to 400 and beyond. :O_o:

Stick with it man. Generating more power isn't really the direct path to reliability but you will eventually arrive there. :D

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And yes top off the radiator as well.

Keep an eye on the level in the overflow. If it's dropping you are losing it somewhere
So sure enough I started to notice puddles, looked underneath an those hose that connects underneath the new over flow tank is loose and leaking. I need to get a small hose clamp, instead of the zip tie
 
I know what you mean.

Of course, any link in the chain on a 30 year old car can be what bites you in the rear end. Hell, there's even a few traces in the instrument cluster that can stop the whole car under certain conditions. :rlaugh:

For this kind of issue, all I can say is to look at the entire fuel system from end to end. There's really not a ton to it and you can prove out sections of it at a time. Try and bullet proof everything as you go.

I had fuel and ignition gremlins when I added my blower. I beefed up portions of each and got it all back up to snuff. Swapping that blower onto the blower revealed even more weaknesses and required more bullet proofing.

Once I got those things ironed out, the chassis and brakes begin to reveal their weaknesses.

We don't have these kinds of issues until we start pushing these 225 CHP cars to 400 and beyond. :O_o:

Stick with it man. Generating more power isn't really the direct path to reliability but you will eventually arrive there. :D

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It’s a pain man and can really get in your head. So I went and bought another relay, noticed the one I had in seemed to have a lot of play in the housing, wiggled a lot. The new one I picked up didn’t. I also pulled the line off the fuel pressure reg and nothing spilt out etc. so I pulled the old relay out, dumped the codes plugged this new one back in and cranked it up. Letting it run and smooth out then I’ll take it for a spin. Hopefully that was the issue, but now I need to also fix my coolant leaking issue. It never ends!!
 
Never mind car warmed up, backed it out, let it idle for a bit and it got funky, hoped out looked at my gauge and it slowly lost pressure!!! :dead: That’s me hitting my car!
 
Here’s another strange thing, I want to say that when I pulled my old cluster out my gas
Was about 1/4 tank. When I put these new gauges in, the fuel gauge was eh about 1/2. Right now my gauge is reading 3/4 full. Any reason this would be happening?
 
Here’s another strange thing, I want to say that when I pulled my old cluster out my gas
Was about 1/4 tank. When I put these new gauges in, the fuel gauge was eh about 1/2. Right now my gauge is reading 3/4 full. Any reason this would be happening?

Different gauges will read differently with different senders. Everything from the float right on out the gauge can be a suspect.
 
I didn't see these until now:






To: One and All
From : Noobz
About: Free Stangnet Stickers!

Send a Private message to @MRaburn containing:

Subject Line: Stangnet Sticker!
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Edited post to include color request (Red or Blue) when you send your PM!
 
Been looks at my door/ hatch strikers. Feel like mine are missing the bushing. The hatch is actually pretty solid, no rattling but noticed two different ones on lmr, not sure if it’s suppose to have a bushing or not. My driver door if I push on it from out side has some play as does my passenger.
41569DC1-347E-45C6-BA51-B2527770AB27.jpeg
1E420BAB-BD11-4F3B-9049-1153EA1E08EF.jpeg
3B9C0B39-30A2-49F7-A1D1-34D8230FC096.jpeg
FF311287-EB9C-49D8-B283-3706BF7CE119.jpeg
78D2B0EE-540B-4E62-ACD5-DCB88029E8A9.jpeg
 
Been looks at my door/ hatch strikers. Feel like mine are missing the bushing. The hatch is actually pretty solid, no rattling but noticed two different ones on lmr, not sure if it’s suppose to have a bushing or not. My driver door if I push on it from out side has some play as does my passenger.
41569DC1-347E-45C6-BA51-B2527770AB27.jpeg
1E420BAB-BD11-4F3B-9049-1153EA1E08EF.jpeg
3B9C0B39-30A2-49F7-A1D1-34D8230FC096.jpeg
FF311287-EB9C-49D8-B283-3706BF7CE119.jpeg
78D2B0EE-540B-4E62-ACD5-DCB88029E8A9.jpeg
@Mustang5L5 Do I recall different part number latches for with and without striker bushings or is that just a trick of my imagination?
 
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