I've officially decided to go turbo on my 68

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by DarkoStoj, Feb 14, 2006.

  1. You could get a junkyard 351W put that in the car giggle gas the hell out of it until it blows then you will know if it is enough. Then replace it with a reliable engine that makes that kind of power.
  2. It can be done. Here's a mockup of a turbo Clevo in a '69:


    You just have to make your own. Here's the driver side:


    Here's the passenger side:


    Is a Windsor narrower than a Cleveland? I believe it's not. I know the Windsor's deck height is taller (9.5" vs. 9.2"), but the Clevo heads might be bulkier where they come closest to the shocktowers. Anyway, Clevo's fit in '65-'66's.

    Attached Files:

  3. Please read what I have already documented around here on this car! I have enough structural steel in this car to build a small bridge = no pretzel. >12" of rear tires through a 9" will hook it up.

    As far as the tranny...perhaps you have never heard of Tremec? The TKO600 [which has already by mocked up in the car w/ a small block & Lakewood bellhousing] is pretty stout, and if more is needed, then take a little stroll over here: http://www.modularmustangracing.com/prod_trans_drive.htm where for another $549 they will upgrade it to 950 ft-lbs. THAT is enough transmission...
  4. Sorry i don't have the time to look up everyones posts to know exactly what has been done to every car that i reply about. What i was getting at is the fastbacks/coupe have the steel roof which adds alot of rigidity to the car. With a convertible, you would definitely need enough steel to build a bridge to reinforce the underside. If you haven't converted it to a full frame car then i wish you luck :rolleyes: Also, i hope those are >12" wide slicks cause i've been in a 69 with a 408w with 9" locker and his 295's are like donuts with his torque, and he is only pushing 430 ft-lbs at the rear wheels. He can't get traction at all and will be adding cal-tracs for help.

    And yes i have heard of Tremec TKO600 and they are rated at 600ft-lbs of torque but they are still not bullitproof. With forced induction on a windsor stroker i would definitely have the additional $550 of work done to it. I was not aware of the modularmustang site though. My 0.02
  5. My biggest concern about my turbo setup is the unibody not being strong enough. I'm going to weld in the tcp subframe connectors and brace(or maybe make my own), but I can't think of any other ways to strengthen without major modification (other than the export brace, monte carlo).

    I will be running a 285 rear tire on a 17" wheel, so traction is my other main concern. I will probably be going with the monolinear leaf springs, caltracs, and a sticky DR. I can't wait to get this sucker started.
  6. I'll get a pick up soon of mine. Most aren't willing to cut up a car like I am. But so far it's worked. I ran square tubbing side by side with the front subframes. Then I had to cut a slot in the floor from about the center of the seat pan to get the subframe side by side in the back. As far as chassis stiffening, I honestly don't think I need a cage. The only signs I have of twisting is the same place it cracks on all these cars. Right behind the quarter window. But I don't know if it was there before I got it, after I started racing it, or what. But I did race a bit without them. But no ripples anywhere, doors shut fine, couldn't be happier.

    mtbdoc, 500 hp is alot in these light cars. I don't have that to the wheels, but I think I'm around 520-530 judging from wieght vs. MPH calulators. And even though I'm kinda used to it, it still scares me.
  7. P.S. guys. You can build a tranny yourself to handle 600 hp on a brake for a little less than $450
  8. What does that $450 get you as far as parts?

    Toploader is where it's at for me :D. I know it wont be as consistent as an auto, but then again I don't drag race. I do have a C4 outta the '68 I need to offload, though....crap, I keep forgetting about it. If I had a dedicated track car, I'd probably spring for a dog box.
  9. Wow, you guys are getting deep!

    I dont want to jack this thread but I would like to know what you think.

    OK, what do you think about a SC on a 427 FE putting out about 850+ HP. This is not RWHP, but dyno HP. Is the SC a viable product? Is it designed for the street or track? How will it drive on the street? Will the 600 tranny hold that much HP or will it break? Do I need to strengthen the framed beyond a TCP sub frame brace?

    Also, is EFI better than carbureted?

    I don't want some rice burner coming along side me on the freeway with a bottle of nitrous and thinking they can take me.

    I am new to this forum and would like your input and expertise.

    Thanks in advance.

    PS. Bought a 2 post lift for $1469. Installed it Saturday. Looks like a $10K lift. Works great.
  10. Complete rebuild,seal,and thrust washer. Rollers and cages for first gear, two new bands, one reverse piston. Transgo shift kit(with option to convert to manual VB). Direct drum drilled to evac fluid(eliminates 2-3 flare), fowrad drum hardened, both machined to take extra clutch and steel.Raybestos blues in the direct and raybestos tans in the forward, both with kolene steels. Ans 30 bucks for shipping came out to 430, and 20 bucks for the rebuild vid. I've been beeating the piss out of this tranny for over 3 years and it is just now showing sign of wear. Time to go thru it, probably something small.
  11. Dang!

    1.) Sounds fun.
    2.) Eh, they have been for the last 100 years...
    3.) Depends on what we're talking about. A centrifugal will ft under the hood, but an 8-71 roots will hang way out of the hood. It will also attract alot of attention, perhaps not the good kind, either.
    4.) Depends on how the engine is built, but most liekly better than an 850hp N/A engine.
    5.) Probably not as long as you'd want.
    6.) If you have more grip than a 225 street radial can provide, yes.
    7.) In what way? The EFI wil have more fine points that can be changed and with the advent of Megasquirt, you do the computer part for the same or less money than a really good carb. Carbs and the fuel sytem are simpler, though.
  12. A little eye candy for you turbo mustang lovers. Not sure if he is a member on here, but he hangs out on the VMF alot. Goes by the username R100RT. Here are his specs and a pic of the engine bay. Did it all himself and looks damn nice. :nice: Running twin Garrett T3's and hasn't dyno'd the motor with any crazy psi, just 10.

    TT331FB - T3/.6/.63 turbos, Spearco intercooler, 302/331 Mexican Block,AFR 185 heads, 3" MAF, 70mm TB, 50# injectors, Tweecer, Track Heat intake, Comp cams roller blower grind,DIY-WB, Yokogawa video display,T-56 tranny, 9" 3.5:1 Traclock, 4x disk brakes, TCP most everything, shelby roll bar. Dyno 522FWHP/587FT-Lbs @10psi boost :hail2:

  13. Nice setup! 522 flywheel ~443 rwhp assuming 15% loss. Should be quite durable and a BLAST to drive...wish I could settle for that little power, though! I assume he notched the shocktowers?

    I am looking into [yet] another option: ATI D2 blowthrough 408...may be too good of a deal to pass up.

    Sure like turbos, though.......
  14. R100RT is registered here. I looked thru his garage alot when thinking about mine. I figured if he could fit twins in a 66, I could surely do a single in a 67.