JCBeaver's 1993 GT Coyote Swap "The Never-Ending Project"

a91what

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uhh yeah... and massive intake heat soak issues to go along with it...

a simple mini-cooper bypass valve [vacuum operated] placed beteen the two manifolds would do very well in that application and can be done without looking like total ass.
 
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Noobz347

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It also doesn't look like their kit comes with the one way check valve that goes between manifolds.

Also required to operate the by-pass diaphragm and feed any vac/boost gauges.

I will say this for the old Kenne Bell kit. It was complete. This TPS kit should be advertised as a [Tuner Kit]. They shouldn't be using images and docs from the old kit either.
 
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Noobz347

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uhh yeah... and massive intake heat soak issues to go along with it...
It's counter intuitive but I think you are right. I had to consider that for a bit.

With the by-pass, you get one quick shot of recirculated/hot air as it closes. Without it, you're always sending unneeded compressed air to the motor. Uhh... Yikes. That is not what I would want for anything other than a drag car that was iced between runs. Even then... this is a PD blower.

I guess the good side is that the oil in the intake will be well heated and atomized. :jester:
 

Reddevil91

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It's counter intuitive but I think you are right. I had to consider that for a bit.

With the by-pass, you get one quick shot of recirculated/hot air as it closes. Without it, you're always sending unneeded compressed air to the motor. Uhh... Yikes. That is not what I would want for anything other than a drag car that was iced between runs. Even then... this is a PD blower.

I guess the good side is that the oil in the intake will be well heated and atomized. :jester:
so found this unit on eBay, guy states he has had it since the KB ordering days but is a Non- bypass blowzilla and looks just like the one he ordered from TPS. I just wonder why they went with the non bypass version, also if they really are offering the flowzilla I’m guessing that would mean it would be the same non bypass but with the inlet??? I would guess the bypass is the make or break on these units? I’m not the best of knowledge on how PD blowers work and would have no idea how to add a bypass but I’m guessing one could fab something up if they had the know how. That not being me lol! Probably a lot of work unless you just went for the A2A cooler fab then added in a bypass somewhere like that one guy did who had that crazy red notch setup. When I’ve talked to the guy from tps he just always seems sketchy, a typo salesman for sure claiming how he is running out yet still has stock. @JCBeaver was the first person I’ve seen with a kit from him and wish I could find others. I’ve asked on FB and this guy basically attacked me and was mad like I was doubting his business. I just no I don’t doubt your company I’m just asking for others who bought your setup to post some pictures or videos of install since you haven’t posted anything of the new product on your website.
 

Noobz347

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So fo

so found this unit on eBay, guy states he has had it since the KB ordering days but is a Non- bypass blowzilla and looks just like the one he ordered from TPS. I just wonder why they went with the non bypass version, also if they really are offering the flowzilla I’m guessing that would mean it would be the same non bypass but with the inlet??? I would guess the bypass is the make or break on these units? I’m not the best of knowledge on how PD blowers work and would have no idea how to add a bypass but I’m guessing one could fab something up if they had the know how. That not being me lol! Probably a lot of work unless you just went for the A2A cooler fab then added in a bypass somewhere like that one guy did who had that crazy red notch setup. When I’ve talked to the guy from tps he just always seems sketchy, a typo salesman for sure claiming how he is running out yet still has stock. @JCBeaver was the first person I’ve seen with a kit from him and wish I could find others. I’ve asked on FB and this guy basically attacked me and was mad like I was doubting his business. I just no I don’t doubt your company I’m just asking for others who bought your setup to post some pictures or videos of install since you haven’t posted anything of the new product on your website.
Well... if you entertaining the idea of going A2A then installing a bypass shouldn't be anything for you at all. LoL

If it fits you as a Tuner Kit for that $$$ then go for it. A bypass like @a91what suggested, wouldn't be too difficult if you are a machinist or have access to one. You can make the one-way hoses you need (if not included) using brake booster check-valves from the "HELP" section at autozone.

You could do a lot with that kit particularly, if you can swing the Flowzilla inlet. Without that inlet, I wouldn't be tempted.
 

JCBeaver

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Sorry I am late to the game... Granted, my knowledge is very limited. What I am being told by Mike from TPS Motorsports is that they have an agreement in place with Kenne Bell to reproduce the 2.1L Blowzilla units. That is as far as I know.

It looks like this is the only version I can get that would pass as CARB legal so I could not complain considering I am located in California. Yes, there were other version that had the bypass valve, but I am not sure if TPS Motorsports will offer that or not. I know that they do offer the Flowzilla inlet if desired. The Flowzilla inlet is not CARB legal. I never asked about the bypass.

Not going to lie, it is a little sketchy to see them tell me there were only 3 units left and I still see them trying to push those units out the door everywhere online. Not sure what can I tell you guys about this. The unit was shipped direct from Kenne Bell if that matters.

I have a tuner currently working with me on getting the car dialed in. We did have idle surge issue at first, but he got that dialed in as of now. The car drives great under light loads until I try to push it into higher RPM then it would act all wacky. I seem to be experiencing a separate issue under heavy loads where the motor would start pulling fuel out of nowhere when I was 100% on the throttle and then proceed to fall flat on its face. Possible TFI issue? Still a work in progress... I am looking at around 14 psi with the 2-5/8" pulley on my set up.

Yes, I am seeing high intake temps after pushing it for some bit. I plan on adding meth but that is going to help very minimally. Not whole lot we can do about this, but for what it is worth, the car is fun to drive before it breaks up under heavy load, which is likely to be a separate issue. Again, my knowledge is quite limited - I am new to the game and I am pretty happy so far when the car pushes me around, but of course I am in it for some reliability. Hopefully I will report back with some good reviews later on. It sure was not cheap at $4300 shipped. I liked the idea of the instant boost and torque with those unit which is why I went with it. I was aware of the heat issues and there isn't any other roots style S/C on the market.
 

a91what

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Sounds 100% like it's in the tune.... I would not rule out weak spark if the break-up only happens under load I will take a look at the files you sent later.

The car faling on its face and dying is an idle tuning issue...
 

JCBeaver

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Sounds 100% like it's in the tune.... I would not rule out weak spark if the break-up only happens under load I will take a look at the files you sent later.

The car faling on its face and dying is an idle tuning issue...
Thanks! Much appreciated!

Yeah we are wondering if I have a weak spark for my set up.. My ignition system is all factory/OEM. Nothing has been upgraded thus far.
 

a91what

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I found your problem... you are hitting a fuel cut limiter based on MAP...

during the pull it would have lit an indicator on the tuning screen labeled " FUEL CUT"

this is what needs to be fixed, along with a myriad of idle parameters.

JC beaver issue.PNG
 

KZGUNS

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Sorry I am late to the game... Granted, my knowledge is very limited. What I am being told by Mike from TPS Motorsports is that they have an agreement in place with Kenne Bell to reproduce the 2.1L Blowzilla units. That is as far as I know.

It looks like this is the only version I can get that would pass as CARB legal so I could not complain considering I am located in California. Yes, there were other version that had the bypass valve, but I am not sure if TPS Motorsports will offer that or not. I know that they do offer the Flowzilla inlet if desired. The Flowzilla inlet is not CARB legal. I never asked about the bypass.

Not going to lie, it is a little sketchy to see them tell me there were only 3 units left and I still see them trying to push those units out the door everywhere online. Not sure what can I tell you guys about this. The unit was shipped direct from Kenne Bell if that matters.

I have a tuner currently working with me on getting the car dialed in. We did have idle surge issue at first, but he got that dialed in as of now. The car drives great under light loads until I try to push it into higher RPM then it would act all wacky. I seem to be experiencing a separate issue under heavy loads where the motor would start pulling fuel out of nowhere when I was 100% on the throttle and then proceed to fall flat on its face. Possible TFI issue? Still a work in progress... I am looking at around 14 psi with the 2-5/8" pulley on my set up.

Yes, I am seeing high intake temps after pushing it for some bit. I plan on adding meth but that is going to help very minimally. Not whole lot we can do about this, but for what it is worth, the car is fun to drive before it breaks up under heavy load, which is likely to be a separate issue. Again, my knowledge is quite limited - I am new to the game and I am pretty happy so far when the car pushes me around, but of course I am in it for some reliability. Hopefully I will report back with some good reviews later on. It sure was not cheap at $4300 shipped. I liked the idea of the instant boost and torque with those unit which is why I went with it. I was aware of the heat issues and there isn't any other roots style S/C on the market.
I think meth injection would be a huge help. I'm dropping 40+ degrees under boost since i added it to my car.
 

JCBeaver

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I think meth injection would be a huge help. I'm dropping 40+ degrees under boost since i added it to my car.
Yeah I look forward to adding it! Anything to help, I will take it. :) We are trying to get it running normally across the RPM range before we start adding anything.

More to come!
 
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JCBeaver

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I am going to try to steer this thread back in line :D

While I am trying to figure out the tune and the drive-ability of my fox, I wanted to do something different to my shifter set up since it is not cutting it for me anymore. It looks old and factory when my car is far from factory at this point.

I wanted a murdered out looking shifter set up. I got myself the Hurst plate and boot. I pulled my Steeda Tri Ax handle off to paint it black and then I put on the new Hurst black pistol grip handle. I absolutely love it! I think it looks wicked. Makes me a fighter pilot wannabe - I know the pistol grip is kind of a Mopar thing, but I love it. I originally had a silver pistol grip handed down to me from someone a couple of years ago and I did not enjoy it much with the stock seats and then I sold them off. Now I am sitting much lower in my Recaro SE seat and the pistol grip feels amaaaazing with the Steeda Tri Ax Handle. You know 5 speed is life!

Before:

48757792967_f6cd966f14_c.jpg


After:

48757279683_173f5a0869_c.jpg


48757795237_87e48677ed_c.jpg


Hope I did not piss off any Mopar haters haha.

I am itching to button everything back up inside the car - need to find a good place to place the meth indicator lights then I should be able to button everything up and try to get the seats re-upholstered then hopefully I can rest easy for a while.
 
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JCBeaver

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Is it just a monte carlo wheel?

edit:

Also, I don't recognize that hub adapter. I think the real adapter accepts the horn button (my car is on my lift and my kids are sleeping, so I can't look now).


If you look at all the pics in that ad, if I remember correctly the horn button snaps into the silver ring, not the wheel itself.
I could be wrong, but I think that's what I did. Been a while.
Thanks so much for chiming in on the horn button issue I am having.

You are correct, I did not purchase the momo hub adapter since I thought it looked pretty funny. I got the universal hub adapter from ebay, which looked pretty nice I thought - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=182608763647

It looks like the hex bolt is preventing my horn button from being able to sit recess into the hole. I'll be damned. Will have to get creative or suck it up and swap it out to the momo hub adapter. I will try with different bolts or try to dig out the horn button internals so it can just be a "cover" rather than an actual horn button. I have not had a horn for as long as I can remember anyway.

I ll need to make sure I have the correct ring for the button to snap into though.
 

Noobz347

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The car drives great under light loads until I try to push it into higher RPM then it would act all wacky
Sounds 100% like it's in the tune.... I would not rule out weak spark if the break-up only happens under load I will take a look at the files you sent later.

The car faling on its face and dying is an idle tuning issue...

This is super common with PD blower setups. Try getting your hands on a Boost-a-Spark to keep the coil saturated.
 

2000xp8

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Thanks so much for chiming in on the horn button issue I am having.

You are correct, I did not purchase the momo hub adapter since I thought it looked pretty funny. I got the universal hub adapter from ebay, which looked pretty nice I thought - http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=182608763647

It looks like the hex bolt is preventing my horn button from being able to sit recess into the hole. I'll be damned. Will have to get creative or suck it up and swap it out to the momo hub adapter. I will try with different bolts or try to dig out the horn button internals so it can just be a "cover" rather than an actual horn button. I have not had a horn for as long as I can remember anyway.

I ll need to make sure I have the correct ring for the button to snap into though.
If i'm reading right, you used a momo wheel on an air bag column, correct?
I don't think it looks right no matter how you slice it. I considered many options to use the momo wheel on my air bag column and found none to be good.
IMO, swap in a tilt column from an older car. It's not really all that much work and the column cost me $100 on ebay.
Do the momo adapter and a tilt column. It's worth the effort.
 
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JCBeaver

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If i'm reading right, you used a momo wheel on an air bag column, correct?
I don't think it looks right no matter how you slice it. I considered many options to use the momo wheel on my air bag column and found none to be good.
IMO, swap in a tilt column from an older car. It's not really all that much work and the column cost me $100 on ebay.
Do the momo adapter and a tilt column. It's worth the effort.
Well, I actually love how it looks right now. Just that I am unable to put the center cap into the wheel with this adapter. I reached out the seller who made this adapter for me and turns out they do sell a 12mm ring spacer that will help me be able to install the center cap. I should have asked them first of all.

I honestly dont think momo adapter looks right being so small and funny looking. Feel free to call me weird :D

However I wanted to ask why tilt column? Assuming thats because the momo adapter will only work with the tilt column?

See pics below of my adapter, I think it looks rather good! Pending arrival of the 12mm spacer ring so I can properly fit my ford center horn button.

48778065932_216bb463f7_z.jpg


48778065707_03c00b6889_z.jpg


48777877926_4f14b4e753_z.jpg


I guess I just solved my center cap/horn button issue with the new spacer ring coming. Thanks all!
 
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JCBeaver

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Worked on the car some more yesterday: Installed the methanol activation light (green) and low level light (amber) on the bottom gauge pod. Also installed the Dakota Cluster switch next to the dimmer switch. Looks right at home I think.

Finally was able to button up the interior after installing those stuff and now my OCD self can settle down haha

Still cant get over how pretty the Dakota cluster is at night time. Too bad I have not done much of night time driving.. Hell, I do not drive this car enough overall yet. Need to upgrade the lighting in my boost gauge to white led so it should flow better with my new cluster.

48777909861_07d9b18526_z.jpg


48778097282_a0500b647c_z.jpg


48777681088_8c5867f301_z.jpg


48777909261_17a735aebc_z.jpg
 

JCBeaver

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This is super common with PD blower setups. Try getting your hands on a Boost-a-Spark to keep the coil saturated.
Looks like we have it fixed as of now.

Originally had the boost limit control set at 14 psi when I am running a total boost of slightly over 14 psi which caused my car to fall flat on its face. Thanks to Steve (a91what) who brought this to our attention.

After increasing the boost limit control to 18 psi, my car was able to pull without falling flat on its face, however, it kept breaking up under heavy load after 4K RPM.

TFI module was still suspect so I went ahead and got that replaced... BOOM! Now I got a nice and smooth pulls! It even felt like it had a little more juice in the light loads now. I guess finicky electronics can really play with your car. Pretty happy at this point! Need to add methanol and then finalize the tune on the dyno sometime soon!
 
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