JCBeaver's 1993 GT Coyote Swap "The Never-Ending Project"

67coupe

Founding Member
Apr 5, 2002
658
409
93
Huntsville, AL
No problem. Didn't want to see you potentially ruin that engine.

Project's looking good. You saved yourself a headache keeping the swaybar mounts. I had to cut them off for my terminator swap. Ended up using a 96-98 sway bar and mounts. Lost some turning radius due to the longer swaybar.
 
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Cheapskate207

Active Member
Jan 12, 2020
224
188
53
29
Maine
Awesome work man! I have a question for you that's going back in the build a bit... Any issues with the hurst bezel and tri ax shift arm? I have always loved the hurst bezel but didn't care for the 8 inch lever it comes with. You've inspired me!
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
Awesome work man! I have a question for you that's going back in the build a bit... Any issues with the hurst bezel and tri ax shift arm? I have always loved the hurst bezel but didn't care for the 8 inch lever it comes with. You've inspired me!
Absolutely love it. Wouldnt change it out, at least not for now. I should note that you need to be sure to have enough length in the shifter arm so it feels right gripping on that pistol knob. if it was too low, it wont be as comfortable.
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
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San Diego, CA
Dealing with a few months old baby and a coyote swap on top of regular 40 hour a week job took more of my time away than I thought! I really wanted to give you guys more regular updates, but I guess it wont be too regular :)

Got her running last week and filled up the fluids. Went to get her aligned and I did not drive her for too long before the power steering pump started to spray ATF all over. So she has been on the jack-stands since late last week as I tore out the AN adapter fitting I bought from PBH Performance. I found a mangled o-ring (probably overtightened and I decided to put in a new pump so the o ring was reused). I got some more o-rings coming in the mail tomorrow then she should be back on the road. PBH swears by this o ring and insists that I I should run their o-ring only. I complied and spent $30 on 4 O-Rings to be overnighted to me :hide:

The AN adapters and the braided lines I got gave me more headaches than what it is worth. My car is not a show car so I kind of regret the choice. At least I am almost done. If I could do it over, i would just go to hydraulic shop and have them build me the hoses I need with the proper fittings. Beats running adapters any day.

The 98 Mustang exhaust system went into my fox no problem after I shaved off all of the exhaust hangers. Now I need to find someone to weld the new hangers on for me. Currently is held up by some dry cleaners' wire clothes hanger :leaving:

She runs and drives pretty well other than stalling/dying during deceleration due to no communication between the computer and the transmission. The way this computer is tuned right now it needs to know what kind of load I am putting out from the transmission. It is a quite common problem on any coyote swap that do not have any speed output to the computer. I am going to get her tuned which is supposed to fix this problem.

Unfortunately, I acquired a major drain somewhere in the ford racing control pack system. The drain was present on the donor 98 GT. The prev owner insisted that the battery lever was present to deter thieves when I asked him if it was due to a battery drain. I knew that was some BS. I practically stole that donor anyway. Go figure I thought.... At least I can isolate it to the control pack, but even so, it is beyond my head to pin down the issue. Probably will leave this to the performance shop. In the meantime, I will utilize the lever.

While the fox is on jack stands over the weekend, I quickly painted the engine covers with Duplicolor Engine Enamel. While not perfect, I am happy with the concept. I will have them professionally painted eventually. I painted the intake tube as well. Cast Coat Iron color is less of an eyesore than a polished tube, but still not happy with how the tube looks. Probably will spray it black after all.

Cant wait to beat on her once the exhaust hangers are in and the tune worked out. Should be good to go after this weekend!

On to the pictures:
 

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eighty5fox

Well-Known Member
Sep 29, 2016
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mass
My car has the decel stalling issue to. It got worse when i put on my CAI. So i just run the stock box until i get my tune. Or you need to wire in the vss wires from the trans to the control pack. Did you wire the trans into the speedo? Just wondering because i need to do it and not sure which wire goes where yet. Swap is looking awesome. I bet you are more than happy with the swap as I am with mine
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
My car has the decel stalling issue to. It got worse when i put on my CAI. So i just run the stock box until i get my tune. Or you need to wire in the vss wires from the trans to the control pack. Did you wire the trans into the speedo? Just wondering because i need to do it and not sure which wire goes where yet. Swap is looking awesome. I bet you are more than happy with the swap as I am with mine
I wired the VSS “sender” wire to my Dakota’s “SPD SND” port. Works perfect after you calibrate the mileage distance then it should be very close to perfect.

I also understand that wiring up this same wire to the control pack MAY or MAY NOT fix the stall issue. I have not tried It yet. Sort of counting on the tune to fix it for me but I will wire it up if it comes that.

Good call on the stock air box. I do have the stock air box from the donor. I can always go buy the filter and slap it on. However my tuner is scheduled to come out this weekend so I am hoping I won’t need to do anything further. We shall see!
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
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San Diego, CA
OK thanks. I will try youtube and post up the video!

My power windows and locks both quit working. Checked the circuit breaker under the hood and it was showing 12V to the black/white wire. I also checked fuse #8 (all good) and I replaced the power windows circuit breaker at the fuse panel. Gotta dig around and ensure I have 12V going to both switches.

Pretty sure everything was working last week. ugh.... I wanted to wash the fox, but got stuck with both windows down.... :bang:
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
I should note that both power windows started to operate intermittently before the coyote swap. I suppose the master switch is suspect.
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
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30
San Diego, CA
After testing further, I found that I forgot to re-connect the main power/ground connector at the kick panel. Both power windows and locks are back in order.

Now I need some help determining which clutch switch wire provides ground when clutch is depressed? See attached pic. There are 3 red/blue stripe wires going to one connector and the other one is 3 or 4 wire connector with different colors, which is supposed to be for the computer.

I have had my control pack’s clutch group connected to a body ground (bypassing the clutch). Just to get her running. Now I want to do it right and connect it to my clutch safety switch for safety’s sake.

The space up there is too cramped for me to do any testing. Really don’t want to tear it down again just to test the wires. Haha
Any input will be appreciated! Thanks!

AE1C2072-69A3-4C42-A012-53CF7E39C081.jpeg
 

MoneyPit90

New Member
Mar 8, 2020
3
0
1
25
San Diego, CA
This is an amazing write up. Quick question, an I'm sure it's been mentioned and I looked over it, which fuel pump are you using? I'm getting ready to start my swap in a couple weeks. Also good to know JBA can help with some of the fittings. I'm in San Diego as well.
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
This is an amazing write up. Quick question, an I'm sure it's been mentioned and I looked over it, which fuel pump are you using? I'm getting ready to start my swap in a couple weeks. Also good to know JBA can help with some of the fittings. I'm in San Diego as well.
Glad you like the write up! Granted it was not as detailed over past few weeks but there are a lot of coyote swap info out there. Feel free to hit me up if you needed to bounce off anyone’s brain.

I still have the 255lph Walboro pumP in my tank. Should be plenty for stock motor. No issues so far. Just needs a tune to get rid of the stalling issue I have during deceleration.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
5,359
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Those red with blue stripe wires are actually the 12v switch wires for the starter. The clutch switch interrupts the 12v signal to keep the car from starting with the key. If you need ground and aren't using the factory clutch switch you could unplug it and put a 20amp fuse in the connector end ( or make a jumper with two spade crimp ends and a piece of wire. Female crimp wire ends should fit in the clutch switch...a small piece of heat shrink on each female connector will keep them from shorting to each other. ( or...you could source a clutch switch connector ). There are only 2 blades in the side the red/blue wires run to. Ground one wire to the chassis...and the other wire would go to the control pack supplying the ground when the clutch is pressed.
 

eighty5fox

Well-Known Member
Sep 29, 2016
250
249
63
32
mass
I wired the VSS “sender” wire to my Dakota’s “SPD SND” port. Works perfect after you calibrate the mileage distance then it should be very close to perfect.

I also understand that wiring up this same wire to the control pack MAY or MAY NOT fix the stall issue. I have not tried It yet. Sort of counting on the tune to fix it for me but I will wire it up if it comes that.

Good call on the stock air box. I do have the stock air box from the donor. I can always go buy the filter and slap it on. However my tuner is scheduled to come out this weekend so I am hoping I won’t need to do anything further. We shall see!


Thanks i did not realize i could wire the vss straight to the dakota digital. Do you recall which wires go where? Or did it not matter. Thanks. Curious to see if the tune solves your issues
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
Those red with blue stripe wires are actually the 12v switch wires for the starter. The clutch switch interrupts the 12v signal to keep the car from starting with the key. If you need ground and aren't using the factory clutch switch you could unplug it and put a 20amp fuse in the connector end ( or make a jumper with two spade crimp ends and a piece of wire. Female crimp wire ends should fit in the clutch switch...a small piece of heat shrink on each female connector will keep them from shorting to each other. ( or...you could source a clutch switch connector ). There are only 2 blades in the side the red/blue wires run to. Ground one wire to the chassis...and the other wire would go to the control pack supplying the ground when the clutch is pressed.
makes perfect sense however i was hoping to retain the plug for a cleaner look if possible. Do you think I can just cut all 3 red/blue wires and use just 2 of them for grounding?
 

JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
Got my coyote motor tuned at JBA Speed Shop and now she runs great! Pulled 425HP to flywheel and 360 to the tires on a mustang dyno.

Got the new cobra wheels and tires couple days ago and I love how it looks now with the 10.5" rear wheels. Those 6.5" backspaced 10.5" cobra wheels fit in the rear of a fox perfectly! I still have fox length axles.


E773BAAE-67C3-4AFD-A2CC-44D327EA866C_1_105_c.jpeg


698ED1C9-1279-4845-8185-D6B760025514_1_105_c.jpeg


JBA Speed Shop were cool to throw together a quick video of my fox during the dyno session:

View: https://youtu.be/8HYO-LtZx-A
 
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JCBeaver

Active Member
Mar 23, 2018
124
71
38
30
San Diego, CA
I promise I ll get a updated video up soon! No excuse with this pandemic going on :)

I had some bad luck a couple weeks ago, my rear right caliper came loose and stretched out the parking brake cable. I got a replacement cable from OReilly and now the right side wont lock up when parking brake is engaged. Everything looks and is functioning like normal except for the fact that the passenger side's parking brake lever does not go in enough when e-brake is applied. After messing around with a few things today, I am concluding thatI cannot mix and match cables. The drivers side cable is still an OEM 98 cable so it appears to have slightly shorter cable length so it locks up before I can even fully engage the passenger side caliper with cable from OReilly.

Thinking about just order a pair of NRC cables or a pair of OEM NOS 98 GT Cables? Anyone got any input on those cables?