I was wondering if a junkyard electric fan would work with the stock fox alternater? i know its recomended that you upgrade to the 130 amp, but is it possible to make it work considering i have a stock radio(aka no sound system) and manual windows/locks on my 88? not to mention no AC(if it matters) including no fan box from under dash. i'm not looking to do a DCcontroller setup, just a simple switch inside and a simple electric fan.
junk yard electric fan with stock fox alternater
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It will work ok. It's going to put greater strain on it as well as the battery. In the meantime you should put a 3G unit towards the top of the "mods to do" list.
90mustangGT said:
I would recommend you do the 3g first, unless you're going to use the DCC setup, which you say you aren't.
Believe me, when that fan kicks on with the lights on when you're stopped, get ready to watch your headlights nearly become inoperable, and bring jumper cables with you, because after a few times of that fan kicking on while you're idling with the headlights on, you'll have a dead battery next time you try to start it.. that is if you don't overheat first from the fan not getting the power it needs.
I guess it probably also depends on what fan you use. If you use a taurus fan, or Mark 8.. forget it. If it's a proform, or cavalier fan or something, go for it.. it may last a while.
Jerry Beach used to run a 3.8L Taurus fan on his 2G with a toggle. He said that he had to monitor what accessories were on and he only ran the low speed (which was more than enough with his 3 core rad, even in humid Florida). he has since gone with a variable controller (same set up as SGarlic)
I only posted that since you asked and he is busy lately and does not come in here as often.
good luck.
I only posted that since you asked and he is busy lately and does not come in here as often.
good luck.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=071-952
Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630
4 gauge black wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-196
4 gauge red wire @ $1.25 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=100-194
4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=095-584
89roadster
Founding Member
I ran my blackmagic for the past two years with the stock alternator and in stopped traffic (I'm talking 15+ minutes of not moving an inch), you won't last - especially in the dark with the wipers going (speaking from experience). I finally upgraded to a PA Performance unit last fall - I could have done it much cheaper with jrichker's instructions, but I just wanted the warranty.
.. whether you do an electric fan conversion or not, you should do the 3g anyway. 
slowhatch82
Founding Member
Just finished installing mine, wired it with a adjustable temp sensor, it cost me less than 30 bucks for kit that came with the wires, sensor, control unit and such from NAPA, probly cost ya alittle more since I work there, but hey, its a good kit, easy to install...I have the fan set on low, and im still messing with when the fan comes on, but its more than enough to cool, and don't seem to have any trouble with the charging system. I do have a new alt. and battery though. 
slowhatch82 said:Just finished installing mine, wired it with a adjustable temp sensor, it cost me less than 30 bucks for kit that came with the wires, sensor, control unit and such from NAPA, probly cost ya alittle more since I work there, but hey, its a good kit, easy to install...I have the fan set on low, and im still messing with when the fan comes on, but its more than enough to cool, and don't seem to have any trouble with the charging system. I do have a new alt. and battery though.
awsome, thogh hopefully it lasts a while, the reason why i wanna go with the electric fan now is because my current fan wobbles a bit too much for my liking at idle, and i'm afraid it will wear out my waterpump bearings prematurely. now when you say "kit", what do i ask for? an electric fan kit? or do you just piece one togeather.
jrichker thanks for the links, you always seem to have link for everything
slowhatch82
Founding Member
NAPA sells a kit, its 36 bucks, not a bad deal, its a good kit. Ask for an electric fan installation kit, its in the big napa parts and supplies book. can't remember the number off the top of my head.
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
All you that run an electric fan with the stock alt and say you have no problems... PLEASE... Bump this thread in a month or two when you're stranded on the side of the road becasue your electric fan kicked on, and your car dies from no power because the alt can't keep up and the battery fully discharges. 
Actually just lastnight at work(i work for autozone) i went back to where we have all the cooling stuff, like electric fans, fan blades ect. and noticed there was a kit too, it consists wires, a relay, and a sensor that you feed through the radiator, it goes for $21, so with my discount i'm looking at $16, not to mention there was another kit which was adjustable, i didnt open the box to see how exactly it works, but it was priced at $17. I think i might get atleast the $21 dollar one.
MarSaleenMustan said:
I used an 89 3.8L taurus fan with a stock alternator with no problems. I just used the 'low' setting on the fan and used it for several months. It put quite a drain on the system when the lights or the ac/heater fans were on as well, but I never was left with a drained battery.
MarSaleenMustan said:
I really like the autozone (hayden or imperial brand) non-adjustible one.. It comes on at 180 degrees and off at 165 degrees.. The probe is nothing but a copper rod that slides through your radiator fins and then has a non-adjustible temperature switch that screws into the end of the rod. Simple design, very reliable and has been extremely consistent. Has a diode for attaching it to your AC line. And only 20 bucks for the setup. The 30 amp relay should be good for lower-powered fans but I upgraded it to a 75-amp relay to run my taurus fan on high.
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