Junkyard electric fans

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I have a single dual speed Contour fan combined with a FAL33054 controller Cools better than any aftermarket fan IMO and are OEM quality.


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So ten years later, how is it holding up?

I picked up a electric fan setup from a V6 ford contour for $40.00 at a You Pull It yard.It fits really nice on the fox body radiator.I made some small L brackets on the top so I could bolt it where the stock shroud was And on the bottom I made some brackets to slide in where the shroud did.
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So if i used this controller. What do i do with that sensor? nvm. Read the desc. Says it slides in between radiator coolant tubes. Ok. Cool.

Or anyone got a better solution. Saw a couple other options. I didnt get the fans, had to get a bumper cover today. Gotta call the JY's around me and find a contour/cougar/mystique first. Gotta do some quick googling and see what cars i can get a 3g alt off of too. Im intimidated thus far on this swap. Just the wiring. But ima do it! I know its easy as hell. (Famous last words)
 
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Junkyard 3g Alternator swap list i got off a corral thread. May have to loosen screws on back and "clock" the alt to set it right for the plugs..


"EDIT found this online, thanks to Joel5.0

94-96 mustang v-6
94-95 mustang 5.0
94-96 t-bird 3.8 non sc
95-96 windstar 3.0
93-96 e series vans f series truck w 4.9 i-6
96 sable 3.0
94-96 cougar 3.8 v6"

Also add the 3.0 taurus
 
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So if i used this controller. What do i do with that sensor? nvm. Read the desc. Says it slides in between radiator coolant tubes. Ok. Cool.

Or anyone got a better solution. Saw a couple other options. I didnt get the fans, had to get a bumper cover today. Gotta call the JY's around me and find a contour/cougar/mystique first. Gotta do some quick googling and see what cars i can get a 3g alt off of too. Im intimidated thus far on this swap. Just the wiring. But ima do it! I know its easy as hell. (Famous last words)
Gm temp switch in the thermostat housing hole .

leash dual 70amp relay . Gm switch grounds at 185 and turns the fans on . Off at 185 . For the price of the Switch you could order 2 and always have a spare in the event of an issue or make a littlejumper from the relay to chassis ground if the switch ever failed you could still drive the car .
 
Something does not make sense with the different types of fans. If the mechanical fan and electric fans move the same amount of air, it should take the same amount of energy to do the same amount of work.
(The electric fans are supposed to move more air, but for the theory...)
If it takes 7-12 hp for the mechanical fan, why does it not take at least that much Hp to turn the alternator to produce the electricity the fan uses? The table for 12 mechanical hp equals 8948 watts! Is something magical going on?

Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
The electric fan saves some HP. The stock fan's parasitic drag runs from 7-12 HP depending on who you talk to. The electric fan uses about 1/2 HP of power from the electrical system. The current draw is up 90 amps startup surge and as high as 30 -40 amps running full speed. Look at the fuse size in the car the fan originally came from when using a junkyard fan to get some clues as to how much current the fan draws. Aftermarket fans will come the specs that have the current requirements clearly stated.

Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps

That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!


3G alternator installation & wiring instructions
3G Alternator Install: A How To | Mustang Forums at StangNet
 
Running a $30 contour fan for 3 years on the 90 and a $30 Taurus fan on the 86 for a year with zero problems. I would never buy an aftermarket fan when the OEM ones are better quality, last forever, and are cheap to replace.
 
Holy sht. Lol. Im prob just gonna buy new off ebay. Meant call some JY's today and try to find a contour. I procrastinated though damnit.

Thats why i want a factory unit. Not a ebay replacement. Pull a part fan will be cheaper and last longer i bet.
 
Found a 2000 v6 cougar at one of the yards. Now to just go pull that thing, if they'll do it for $30. If not ill just buy a new one. 1-2 hours in 95 degrees aint worth it. Even though it sounds kinda fun.
 
Something does not make sense with the different types of fans. If the mechanical fan and electric fans move the same amount of air, it should take the same amount of energy to do the same amount of work.
(The electric fans are supposed to move more air, but for the theory...)
If it takes 7-12 hp for the mechanical fan, why does it not take at least that much Hp to turn the alternator to produce the electricity the fan uses? The table for 12 mechanical hp equals 8948 watts! Is something magical going on?

voltage x current = watts

746 watts = 1 HP

14 volts x 40 amps =560 Watts

Let's say for sake of argument that the electric motor uses twice that many watts...
560 x 2 = 1120 watts
1120 watts ÷746 = 1.50 HP.
 
Foxslider... if you go to the junkyard to get parts (and plan on using the relays to control the fans) get the relay section of the fuse box as well and as much of the fan system wiring as you can.


Here is a thread where I explained what I did. I used as much of the Contour wiring and control system as I could. I am actually just about to convert my 2004 F150 to electric fans and will use the same control system for it.
 
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voltage x current = watts

746 watts = 1 HP

14 volts x 40 amps =560 Watts

Let's say for sake of argument that the electric motor uses twice that many watts...
560 x 2 = 1120 watts
1120 watts ÷746 = 1.50 HP.
Yes, that’s the other half of the power consumption quandary. So, is the mechanical fan’s power drain that overstated? The production of electricity by a high output alternator, it’s transfer, then it’s conversion back to rotational energy should have more potential losses to heat and friction than a direct, mechanical link with a thermally controlled fan clutch. The alternator cannot put out more power in Watts than it takes in as Hp unless it is magic, producing free energy. So one of the figures is likely off. An easy answer would be the mechanical fan design is less efficient, but if 5.5 to 10.5 hp difference is lost to the design, a new mechanical fan blade design would be a cheap factory change for the extra power output compared to the two electric motors and complex shroud. So what am I missing?
 
Is it possible that you are over thinking this?
There are dyno tests that prove a properly configured electric cooling fan can be as effective as a clutch fan and use less hp.
Or am I missing something?
Engine masters found a properly working clutch fan was the most efficient. The difference was negligible though.

Clutchless fans were the absolute worst though.
 
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