just did explorer intake swap...help!

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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i just did the swap,did some reading,seemed easy enough,drilled and tapped the act sencor was going well until i noticed that my lower intake didnt have the hole for the egr coolant return line!...its all together torqed and ready to go,anyone know if there is another way to plum the line so i dont have to take it apart again?
 
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Plug off the egr coolant lines.I had mine welded shut on the water tubes,repainted them black,installed them,done.No more tubes (small hoses) to the throttlebody spacer.Mine has been that way for 5 years with zero issues.
 
The cooler hoses to the EGR spacer will actually make the EGR plate COOLER! By blocking off the hoses the EGR plate actually runs HOTTER! Now if the EGR is disconnected (I.E. the EGR passages are blocked off in the intalke or heads) then there is no need for the cooler lines/hoses.
 
my egr is still hooked up,so i think i need the coolent flow?,i was thinking of splicing the heater coar line with a tee and run it there,that should be fine?
 
Most stock 5.0's have a nipple coming off of the coolant pipe that runs from the heater hose to the front of the intake manifold. So splicing or placing a T off of one of the heater hoses should work the same, just at a different location that what is "stock".
 
Unfortunately, you'll have to pull the lower intake off and tap a 3/8" NPT port in either one of the two rear bosses for the nipple on the stock 5.0 intake.

You can just cap the lines off although if your EGR is functional, i wouldn't. Personally, i'd just pull the lower and do it right
 
Most stock 5.0's have a nipple coming off of the coolant pipe that runs from the heater hose to the front of the intake manifold. So splicing or placing a T off of one of the heater hoses should work the same, just at a different location that what is "stock".

He would have to tap into the downstream hose in that case. If he taps into the upstream hose, the pressure at the inlet and outlet will be the same and the coolant in the EGR won't move at all.

If he taps into the downstream hose (of the heater core) then there should be enough pressure differential of the coolant across the fins to force coolant to flow through the EGR spacer.

By downstream of the heater core...i mean after the coolant flows into the core and comes out. So whatever hose the pipe with the nipple is hooked too....use the other one.

Ideally, i'd rather put it in the correct spot in case the flow through the heater core is very good...and in that case coolant won't really flow that well through the EGR
 
i would rather do it right also but its all together now,i realy dont want to take it all apart again....im going to try to splice into the down stream of the core,i think it should be ok....will find out tomoro...thanks for help..
 
I have an Explorer heater core hard line hanging on the wall from an intake core purchase that has both the supply and return nipples on the two lines - you'd just have to swap that out. Look in a local JY for one like it.
 
Ideally, i'd rather put it in the correct spot in case the flow through the heater core is very good...and in that case coolant won't really flow that well through the EGR

See my post above. Even if the heater core was plugged, the pump pressure in the supply line would push water through the spacer and into the hard return line - the differential pressure is there to force flow.