Just had a bad nitrous backfire - what do you think got hurt?

I armed the solenoids, purged it a couple of times, hit it in first gear and it pulled hard and then instantly died. Let it sit for about a minute, then I went to restart the motor and BAMM! I saw the typical big flame and my hood actually bowed up!

It's barely running and I'm hearing a "grinding" type noise. Luckly I was just around the corner from my house so parked it and walked back. What do you guys think I hurt? Man I'm sick to my stomach. :(
 
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LaserRed01GT said:
I armed the solenoids, purged it a couple of times, hit it in first gear and it pulled hard and then instantly died. Let it sit for about a minute, then I went to restart the motor and BAMM! I saw the typical big flame and my hood actually bowed up!

It's barely running and I'm hearing a "grinding" type noise. Luckly I was just around the corner from my house so parked it and walked back. What do you guys think I hurt? Man I'm sick to my stomach. :(

Damn dude....125 shot on stock internals? What fuel pump are you running?

this doesn't sound good. DO NOT run the car any more! get a compression test done imediately to see if the engine is still holding compression. Chances are you through a rod or bearing...sorry man
 
I didn't hear any of the familar bottom end death sounds. Sounded almost like when a fan rubs on the shroud or something along those lines. Maybe it pushed the intake over into something. I can tell the intake lifted, because I had zero control of the throttle. I didn't look to close.....I was extremely pissed and upset and it was getting dark.

I think the N20 solenoid must have hung open, and when I went to start it.......well you know.
 
Well after looking at it closer, I feel a little better. The intake manifold IS shattered into a million pieces, but the bottom end has good compression on all 8. There were litle pieces of plastic from the intake manifold all over the place, some had got into the alternator and I suspect that was the source of the "grinding" noise.

I started it up a couple of times for just a few seconds each time, and it "sounded" healthy. I'll have to get it towed over to Coastal Dyno tomorrow and find out what all is damaged.

[fingers crossed]For now, I think the bottom end may be alright.[/fingers crossed]
 
Here are some pics. It's dark and kinda hard to see, but if you look closely, you will see the entire front of the IM is gone.

View attachment 435552

View attachment 435553

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The N20 is gettin' yanked. I am going to do heads/cam and just make a nice n/a motor. I have nothing against nitrous, but there is just way too many variables that can go wrong at any given time.

What can I expect to put to the wheels with a healthy set of cams and fully ported heads?........ with all the approprite supporting mods of course.
 
My guess is the fuel solenoid stuck open.
As we all know nitrous is an oxider, it don't go BOOM. Fuel goes BOOM.

Now for damage if your wanting to be safe and have the funds yank the heads and make sure no Intake manifold is down in there.
 
It's a wet kit, and it was the nitrous solenoid that hung. Fuel solenoid is functioning properly.

Nitrous isn't flammable, but it can cause an explosion in the intake manifold. The reason being is reversion. Every inernal combustion motor out there has what they call reversion. Reversion is when a small amount of the combusion process reverses back into the IM during valve overlap. So there is always the potential for combustion in the intake manifold as well given the right circumstances.

Wet kits usually do make a much bigger "BOOM" just beacause there is more fuel present in the intake manifold than normal, but make no mistake about it, the excess N20 is the cause of the boom. If there is N20 hiding in the intake manifold and you are at high vacuum (throttle closed) you will have a problem. The N20/fuel/air mixture is drawn into the first cylinder. As soon as that first cylinder ignites the N20/fuel/air mixture, there will be a slight reversion of the resultant combustion into the intake manfold as soon as that cylinder goes in overlap. Since N20 splits into Nitrogen and Oxygen at roughly 565°F and the reverision back into the intake manifold is much hotter than that, the "hiding" nitrous in the intake manfold is the catalyst for the big "BOOM."

You don't have to pull the heads to look for pieces in the cylinder. You can use a bore scope through the spark plug hole. But, the heads are coming off anyway to get worked and install bigger cams.:)