>>> Kenne Bell 2V twinscrew SC is here!!!!!

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Warning!

I was going to go to bed, but I had to give the car a once-over (as per KB instructions after an initial test run) so I re-checked the fliuds including the blower oil. Strangly, it looked low. Hmmmmmm. I know I didn't use the whole bottle of oil when I first put the oil in, but the blower looked full before the test drive. The dip stick is near impossible to read with the new oil.

Seeing that the oil level looked low, I put more in. It now looked a little over-filled. arrrrgh! :mad: There are warnings about over-filling, so now I am concerned. So I start it up to move the oil around, shut it off and wait 5 minutes. The oil level looks perfect now. An interesting thing though, is that the zipping noise is gone. Hmmmmm. It sounds to me like the oil level is VERY sensitive. Either it was underfilled the first time and the noise was from a lack of oil, or the zipping noise is normal and if overfilled,the blower isn't working correctly. I will check it again in the morning. I am just slightly overly paranoid now. I sure wish that dip stick was easier to read. It's more like guess work with it. I will call KB when I get back next week to see if the whole bottle of oil is supposed to be used, or if it was supplied to mearly "top off" the level. There is still at least 1 1/2 inches left in the bottle. The bottle is tiny so I didn't think anything of it when I put the oil in. It looked like enough oil for "topping off". Good thing I just went down the road and came right back on the test run.

If somebody is going to install one of these blowers this week, triple check that oil level!!! I didn't do another test drive after I topped it off just now,so maybe the blower will make the same noise on the road, but the noise at idle is gone completely. I just wish I knew if the noise is supposed to be there or if it is a bad thing if it is not there. Everybody else with blowers is always saying how much of a whining noise blowers make. Is it bad when they go quiet? I tend to think that the noise is not supposed to be there on mine. Oh well, I will find out when I get back.

I REALLY am going to bed now!
 
Ryan L said:
Can your Novi get your GT to 400rwhp on 9psi? Does your Novi make full boost by 3k RPM and hold until redline? Doubt it. I'm not even going to mention the torque differences either.

KB = teh win. :banana:


I never said the Novi 2k was better for the street just what I can afford. Besides for $5K I would go Turbo, and answer yes to your questions.
 
Red Dragon said:
Seeing that the oil level looked low, I put more in. It now looked a little over-filled. arrrrgh! :mad: There are warnings about over-filling, so now I am concerned.

It is better to run a KB blower slightly under filled than over filled. Too much oil will blow out the seals and start oil leaks. The dip sticks are hard to read but wipe the stick clean and then stick it back in the case. Look at it in good light and at the right angle you'll be able to read it. Make sure to not run it over filled.
 
It's all good!

Well, I did another test drive. Everything sounds the same as the first test drive. I guess it was just late (early) and paranoia was setting in. I still have my cool "zipping" noise on excelleration :nice: and it sounds the same as before at idle. The oil level is about 1/16th inch above full when cold, but normal after a shutdown. I bet I had it perfect the first time. :rolleyes: I will leave it alone until I contact KB; I think it is fine and I won't be around to drive it anyways.

If you drive it normally, it drives totaly like stock. Really incredible. The only detonation I heard was when the rpms got to around 900, I was going around a curve and up a hill and I tried to excellerate. The low rpm coupled with too high a gear going up a hill caused the detonation. The other time I got detonation was when I was behind a milk truck at 30 miles per hour and, again, I was in too high a gear trying to excellerate. Each time I backed off immediately and down shifted to a rocket propelled launch. I have NO detonation above 1,000 rpm at all under any conditions. I do have to admit, I didn't go above 4,500 rpms though. Another paranoia thing; I don't know if these things need a break-in period. Anybody know?

I am going to have to get used to this car all over again. It does not feel like the same car. My 13 year old said it felt like a luxury sport car because it accelerated so quickly and smoothly. He had a grin ear-to-ear when we went to get more 94 octane! Earlier this morning I said that for those that wanted power at 2k, it was there. Well, it comes on before that. I am not kidding folks. And this is with 3.27 gears! What a friggin road monster! If you take off normally in 1st, then punch it, it will break loose, even with 3.27 gears! Holy god! I will NOT be changing gears. No question there; final answer!

Again, I have to say that I am MORE than happy with this kit. I have never driven a supercharged car before (but built a few big block Fords in my time), so I didn't know what to expect. It is smoother and has a more constant power curve than a built-up big block. It also makes the car feel "lighter" for some reason. :shrug: I did not expect that part. My guess is that is the increase in torque.

As for the intercooler, it is probably working and I am just paranoid again. I felt the reservoir after the trip to the gas station and it felt hot. This is probably a good sign that the pump is actually working and circulating the coolant to the intercooler. I did everything right to the letter and it is probably fine. Like I said, I am new to this stuff (an older guy that had vintage Mustangs) so I don't know what to expect.

I did another check of everything after the run to the gas station (will probably be my 2nd home) :D and everything checks out fine. Yes, I am still paranoid, but being the guinea pig for the first 2V twin screw (on a 2003, no less) comes with a little pressure. I don't want to F-up anything.

The temperature of the engine runs cooler than stock. KB used a cooler running thermostat and it shows. There will be no need for a bigger radiator. I wonder how the cabin heat will be in the winter? I might have to put a warmer thermostat in for winter driving. Yes, I drive the little beasty in the winter. I am from the old school where you built a Mustang and drove it year-run for year-round fun. Nothing will change there. I drove it last winter on 4 Blizzacks and it handled great. Matter of fact, I drove it to the paint shop in a snow storm. :nice: We just do things differently around here I guess. :p

I did notice that the cats run hotter. They crackle more after I shut the engine off.

Now that I see what can be had for power, screw the Cobras (don't take that wrong, I like Cobras). Get a cheap GT and get the KB kit. It is a LOT cheaper and gives you a faster car. You can also forget about all of the little BS add-ons (including exhaust) that nickle and dime you to death and only give marginal increases (if any) in power. They are not needed. Save your money for the real-deal.

Well, I gotta go. And yes, I will be thinking about the Red Dragon the whole week. :( It is sooo much fun, I can't stand it! :banana: :D

I have attached a picture of the engine compartment that show the completed job. :D :D :D :banana: :banana:
 

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Red Dragon said:
Another paranoia thing; I don't know if these things need a break-in period. Anybody know?
I'd like to know too. Nothing in the instructions on that?

I will NOT be changing gears. No question there; final answer!
:lol: wait until the newness wears off and you want just a little more hehe. Really though, glad to hear of the good performance with stock gears.

The temperature of the engine runs cooler than stock. KB used a cooler running thermostat and it shows. There will be no need for a bigger radiator. I wonder how the cabin heat will be in the winter? I might have to put a warmer thermostat in for winter driving.
Haven't heard of any complaints from those running the 160 stat, even in winter. I'll be interested in this when it comes also, as we have typical snowy cold winters here as well.

You can also forget about all of the little BS add-ons (including exhaust)...
Ouch, don't know if I agree with the exhaust part. Open it up and I'm sure you'll take better advantage of the new air induction. But if I were to start all over again, I would do the induction before the exhaust.

Engine bay looks sweet! :nice: I can't wait.

Do you have any of the instruction manual errors documented yet? You mentioned you were going to make notes as you found them. Maybe when I get mine next week you can clue me in by page number or something?
 
:worship: :worship: :worship:
Take some pics of your car with the hood open. You know body shops, exposed intercooler, ass shots (we all know plenty will be getting used to it now more than ever ;) )
Youre one lucky man, :( Im so jelous :(

:nice: :worship: :) :D
 
Red Dragon said:
Well, I did another test drive. Everything sounds the same as the first test drive. I guess it was just late (early) and paranoia was setting in. I still have my cool "zipping" noise on excelleration :nice: and it sounds the same as before at idle. The oil level is about 1/16th inch above full when cold, but normal after a shutdown. I bet I had it perfect the first time. :rolleyes: I will leave it alone until I contact KB; I think it is fine and I won't be around to drive it anyways.

If you drive it normally, it drives totaly like stock. Really incredible. The only detonation I heard was when the rpms got to around 900, I was going around a curve and up a hill and I tried to excellerate. The low rpm coupled with too high a gear going up a hill caused the detonation. The other time I got detonation was when I was behind a milk truck at 30 miles per hour and, again, I was in too high a gear trying to excellerate. Each time I backed off immediately and down shifted to a rocket propelled launch. I have NO detonation above 1,000 rpm at all under any conditions. I do have to admit, I didn't go above 4,500 rpms though. Another paranoia thing; I don't know if these things need a break-in period. Anybody know?

I am going to have to get used to this car all over again. It does not feel like the same car. My 13 year old said it felt like a luxury sport car because it accelerated so quickly and smoothly. He had a grin ear-to-ear when we went to get more 94 octane! Earlier this morning I said that for those that wanted power at 2k, it was there. Well, it comes on before that. I am not kidding folks. And this is with 3.27 gears! What a friggin road monster! If you take off normally in 1st, then punch it, it will break loose, even with 3.27 gears! Holy god! I will NOT be changing gears. No question there; final answer!

Again, I have to say that I am MORE than happy with this kit. I have never driven a supercharged car before (but built a few big block Fords in my time), so I didn't know what to expect. It is smoother and has a more constant power curve than a built-up big block. It also makes the car feel "lighter" for some reason. :shrug: I did not expect that part. My guess is that is the increase in torque.

As for the intercooler, it is probably working and I am just paranoid again. I felt the reservoir after the trip to the gas station and it felt hot. This is probably a good sign that the pump is actually working and circulating the coolant to the intercooler. I did everything right to the letter and it is probably fine. Like I said, I am new to this stuff (an older guy that had vintage Mustangs) so I don't know what to expect.

I did another check of everything after the run to the gas station (will probably be my 2nd home) :D and everything checks out fine. Yes, I am still paranoid, but being the guinea pig for the first 2V twin screw (on a 2003, no less) comes with a little pressure. I don't want to F-up anything.

The temperature of the engine runs cooler than stock. KB used a cooler running thermostat and it shows. There will be no need for a bigger radiator. I wonder how the cabin heat will be in the winter? I might have to put a warmer thermostat in for winter driving. Yes, I drive the little beasty in the winter. I am from the old school where you built a Mustang and drove it year-run for year-round fun. Nothing will change there. I drove it last winter on 4 Blizzacks and it handled great. Matter of fact, I drove it to the paint shop in a snow storm. :nice: We just do things differently around here I guess. :p

I did notice that the cats run hotter. They crackle more after I shut the engine off.

Now that I see what can be had for power, screw the Cobras (don't take that wrong, I like Cobras). Get a cheap GT and get the KB kit. It is a LOT cheaper and gives you a faster car. You can also forget about all of the little BS add-ons (including exhaust) that nickle and dime you to death and only give marginal increases (if any) in power. They are not needed. Save your money for the real-deal.

Well, I gotta go. And yes, I will be thinking about the Red Dragon the whole week. :( It is sooo much fun, I can't stand it! :banana: :D

I have attached a picture of the engine compartment that show the completed job. :D :D :D :banana: :banana:

Congratulations.....

Didn't want to say I told you so about the gears but.... :) Those twin screws have a ton of power down low. Gears are not needed...

Do you think you will take it to a dyno once you get back? I'd love to see what that thing will put down...