Progress Thread Left me stranded, again... just luckily it was in the driveway.

Boostedpimp

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My vote is for the powerpipe.. its a good setup and holds its value well so you can always sell it off later on if you do go forced induction.
 
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Reddevil91

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If he has a fender liner he won't have to worry about that. Or....he could build a dam out of sheet metal to keep the fan air off the filter. Testing has proved that it makes a difference. The filter would be at the same level as the factory air box inlet hole ( the big oval one ). Theres also a bolt on adapter available to adapt that pro m to cold air piping on the filter side.

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Your car....is a different breed, Mike
What is this gadget? I feel like that filter and mass air combo would make it to long to fit like most inner fender well mounted filters fit since they are usually kinda stubby. The Anderson power pipe would fit bc it makes the filter run parallel inside the fender so it paints forward towards the headlights vs out towards the fender wall. Idk if that made any sense but in my head it did. As for fan spray does it matter if I have electric fans? Are you meaning like that way you don’t blow hot air from the fans towards the filter which would then run hot into the intake?
 

CarMichael Angelo

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What is this gadget? I feel like that filter and mass air combo would make it to long to fit like most inner fender well mounted filters fit since they are usually kinda stubby. The Anderson power pipe would fit bc it makes the filter run parallel inside the fender so it paints forward towards the headlights vs out towards the fender wall. Idk if that made any sense but in my head it did. As for fan spray does it matter if I have electric fans? Are you meaning like that way you don’t blow hot air from the fans towards the filter which would then run hot into the intake?
Yes,..he means the hot air that the fan is pulling through the radiator ( electric or belt driven)will force your engine to breathe by locating your air inlet inside the engine compartment.
 

Reddevil91

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Ok so turns out my super old Mac non flanged shortys are warped, and causing some exhaust leak. So now I’m stuck with buying some new shortys or saying F it and buying new longtubes and an x pipe which will set me back. I’m trying to save a little but well now I’m stuck. I found a nice set of ford Motorsports ceramic shorty headers new, guy wants 250, I could run my old h pipe or buy an X pipe. Was going to see if he would maybe take 200. Or I could drop the cash even though I don’t want to per say right now and buy some long tubes and an X pipe but that’s a big chunk probably I’d say 600 or so. I’ve wanted longtubes but are they really worth the extra cash and pain in the rear? These are the shortys, and longtubes I know what you all will say but I was thinking about the bbk chrome ones bc they are cheaper and thought about scuffing them and coating them with vht flame proof clear ceramic spray. 2287AA35-4EE1-433A-9968-34D16CAA6F39.jpeg
 

deathb4dismount

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Ok so turns out my super old Mac non flanged shortys are warped, and causing some exhaust leak. So now I’m stuck with buying some new shortys or saying F it and buying new longtubes and an x pipe which will set me back. I’m trying to save a little but well now I’m stuck. I found a nice set of ford Motorsports ceramic shorty headers new, guy wants 250, I could run my old h pipe or buy an X pipe. Was going to see if he would maybe take 200. Or I could drop the cash even though I don’t want to per say right now and buy some long tubes and an X pipe but that’s a big chunk probably I’d say 600 or so. I’ve wanted longtubes but are they really worth the extra cash and pain in the rear? These are the shortys, and longtubes I know what you all will say but I was thinking about the bbk chrome ones bc they are cheaper and thought about scuffing them and coating them with vht flame proof clear ceramic spray. 2287AA35-4EE1-433A-9968-34D16CAA6F39.jpeg
I wouldnt pay 250 as most shorties seem to come up for around 100 locally. I would hold out for a better deal
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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The long tube headers are excellent for the low end grunt you want off the line, you have to think about how low your car is, some have issues with dragging on speed bumps and such, I have long tubes and at stock height I have no problems, a mini starter, I have a 93 starter on mine, is a better choice for clearance with lts, also I would not get chrome, they don't last, ceramic coated (not the painted on stuff) from the header maker is worth the extra bucks. I like long tubes, you likely will not even notice the difference, most go with shorties
 

Reddevil91

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The long tube headers are excellent for the low end grunt you want off the line, you have to think about how low your car is, some have issues with dragging on speed bumps and such, I have long tubes and at stock height I have no problems, a mini starter, I have a 93 starter on mine, is a better choice for clearance with lts, also I would not get chrome, they don't last, ceramic coated (not the painted on stuff) from the header maker is worth the extra bucks. I like long tubes, you likely will not even notice the difference, most go with shorties
Yeah man my car is dropped pretty good. Since I’ve done the 5lug swap I have been clearing better over the speed bumps. Idk if that’s bc I adjusted the exhaust and trans cross memeber. That’s one thing I was afraid of though bc they look like they hang pretty low. As far as starter I have a mini in now Incase you don’t remember all that fiasco. Just sucks that new ceramic LTs are 500 for bbk. Plus I’d need the new X or H pipe and o2 extenders. Idk maybe I’ll just get new shortys unless I can find a decent set of LTs used. How often can flanged sets possibly warp?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I don't know about the warp issues, mine are the individual flanged, and yes I now remember that bit of trouble with the starter, just get the shorties and be done with it, it's not a issue to fret over and the difference in the money is the main concern, LT's do have a 'sound' to them in my opinion but the ground clearance thing can be big. Like I said, the difference in torque won't be noticed.
 

Reddevil91

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I don't know about the warp issues, mine are the individual flanged, and yes I now remember that bit of trouble with the starter, just get the shorties and be done with it, it's not a issue to fret over and the difference in the money is the main concern, LT's do have a 'sound' to them in my opinion but the ground clearance thing can be big. Like I said, the difference in torque won't be noticed.
Ok so I know there’s all this stuff about back pressure. So I found a guy that has some pretty new ceramic bbk longtubes and a Bassani x pipe. He can’t remember if they were 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 and whether the x pipe is 2.5 or 3 in. Now let’s say the headers end up being 1 3/4 and the x pipe is 3 in. How would this affect my car power wise? I’m no where near 4-500 hp, so would this end up being worse for my car currently?
 

Reddevil91

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So would you guys call this a 1 5/8 or a 1 3/4 primary? Sorry the guy doesn’t have calipers and this is the pic he sent me.
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Reddevil91

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Were you serious about the 'back pressure' comment?
if the money is right get 'em. If the x pipe is 3" thats ok, you can still run 2 1/2" tail pipes. You likely will never notice the ' off the line' torque loss, if anything I think it may be only like 5-600 rpm higher.
just the opinion of a guy who may or may not know anything about it.
Read this if you have not already: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/stop-saying-car-exhausts-need-back-pressure.902035/
Lol just thought I’d throw it out there!! Anyways he is asking 400 for both the longtubes and x pipe and they look clean. Said he had them on for about 1000 miles and swapped to a t-56 and was having issues with them hitting the clutch fork so he bought a different set. I’d say it’s a good deal!
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Reddevil91

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Ok so I picked up these longtubes from a guy, and they look pretty clean but he had an oil leak and they are a little dirty. What can I use to clean these or how can I go about doing so before I install these. Also I know two of the bungs are for the O2 sensors, but is the third bung what one would use if they want to run a wide band? Can i use these plugs to plug it until I plan to do once i pick a blower? 62E3A06D-B4FC-467D-8FF4-448B0B343592.jpeg C5883DF9-7932-4020-8587-3D4E50521C2F.jpeg 5E048C67-E5BD-49D4-B7C1-88A86532DC44.jpeg 4DB2BF61-FEBB-442C-9710-E95E1508FFC9.jpeg 549F364A-A4B8-4E1C-B6DA-210287A4892C.jpeg
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I'd say you could clean them....id try some lacquer thinner first. Only test it low in case it messes with the finish. After that you could take some fine rubbing compound and get after it...Ceramic coating is pretty tough..it should let you rub the stains off with some elbow grease. Just be aware of removing the finish.
 

Reddevil91

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I'd say you could clean them....id try some lacquer thinner first. Only test it low in case it messes with the finish. After that you could take some fine rubbing compound and get after it...Ceramic coating is pretty tough..it should let you rub the stains off with some elbow grease. Just be aware of removing the finish.
What would I look for in regards to taking the ceramic coating off?
 

Reddevil91

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Also finally got my MM full length subs installed, and coated. Don’t worry about my butchered exhaust bc it’s all coming out. Installing longtubes, x pipe, pro street 6000 spintech cat back, and some new lx tailpipes. Oh man can’t wait to hear it. My current exhaust after the shortys to h pipe had been touched up and retouched several times from hitting the exhaust on trailers and bumps, that it had leaks, what seemed like a mix of 2 inch flanges that flowed into 2.5. It was all jacked but that’s what happens when you are a kid that knows nothing about exhaust and you would take it to cheap off the road exhaust shops who would also inspect the car for an extra 15 on top of the inspection fee :cool:
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Reddevil91

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Want your all’s opinion here, so I have a Tremec t-5 guessing its rated at about 3-325 ft/LB torque. So found this deal, guy lives an hour away, asking 1,500 for everything, and says he had less than 500 miles on everything. Followed his build and he went turbo and installing power glide. My current clutch is probably ehh idk 15 years old, just installed a MM clutch cable, firewall adj. and quadrant. So I’ve been thinking about upgrading the clutch and fly wheel recently but not right this minute, with a stage two kit just not sure what brand. Anyways I found this deal, so just wondering if you guys think it’s a good pick up. It’s a 26 spline
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Reddevil91

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Oh boy!! Super pumped to hear the tune of my all new exhaust. So new set up for the car BBK longtubes, O/R X pipe, pro street 6000 spintech cat back, and some stainless LX pipes that LMR re sent due to the first set being not packaged well and getting banged up, also decided to get the motor mounts replaced as well. Videos to come! car needs to be tuned but I can’t wait to get out cruise this baby.
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