Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?

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How does the Foxbody fare at the car show. I have one locally once a month and thinking about doing it. My car is finally in very good condition. Worthy I believe If I saw the Reddevil car at a show I would be very exited to see it. Our cars are thirty now do people gravitate to them?
 
That sucks about your car. The thing about efi is you could have all the things you listed...but if the injectors aren't firing the car won't start. The computer gets its info from the pickup in the distributor to fire them. ( I think you've been through this already ).

On a couple cars in the past the salt and pepper connectors caused the same type issue. Rarely I've seen a bad computer cause this. Over time the soldering points can get weak, crack and only show up when the computer is warm.

I can remember some people years ago having issues with cars that had piggy back chips installed. The cars wouldn't run right sometimes or stall. Was so long ago I can't remember which ones where prone to loose connection.

You need to grab a set of noid lights from harbor freight or a parts store. When the car doesn't start you just unplug the easiest injector and put the noid light in the harness end. When cranking the light should pulse. Another check would be to spray some ether or starting fluid in the intake hose when it won't start. If it starts you know for sure you have an issue with fuel, injectors, or computer control. It only takes a small spray and hook the box back up before cranking it.
 
How does the Foxbody fare at the car show. I have one locally once a month and thinking about doing it. My car is finally in very good condition. Worthy I believe If I saw the Reddevil car at a show I would be very exited to see it. Our cars are thirty now do people gravitate to them?
This meet usually has a good fox body turn out. Can’t talk for the other Radwood shows they do but I would think there has to be some that turn out at each show. It’s a really fun show, some cool cars and some that I was like wtf is this bc I’ve never even seen before.
 
That sucks about your car. The thing about efi is you could have all the things you listed...but if the injectors aren't firing the car won't start. The computer gets its info from the pickup in the distributor to fire them. ( I think you've been through this already ).

On a couple cars in the past the salt and pepper connectors caused the same type issue. Rarely I've seen a bad computer cause this. Over time the soldering points can get weak, crack and only show up when the computer is warm.

I can remember some people years ago having issues with cars that had piggy back chips installed. The cars wouldn't run right sometimes or stall. Was so long ago I can't remember which ones where prone to loose connection.

You need to grab a set of noid lights from harbor freight or a parts store. When the car doesn't start you just unplug the easiest injector and put the noid light in the harness end. When cranking the light should pulse. Another check would be to spray some ether or starting fluid in the intake hose when it won't start. If it starts you know for sure you have an issue with fuel, injectors, or computer control. It only takes a small spray and hook the box back up before cranking it.
So noid lights ok I can get those, the bad thing is waiting or not knowing when it will do this again. So a non pulsing noid light would equal 3 possible different thing but pretty much all related to fuel? Then injectors are new 60lb but like with any could have a bad or maybe clogged injector? The wiring harness is still the factory harness not sure if something in that could be going bad and causing this issue but it does seem to happen when the car is warmed up or have been run for awhile. It’s happened once where I just went into the garage to crank it and it just kept trying to crank but nothing. So I quit for that evening and next day cranked right up. If per say it was the pcms those are in the ecu aren’t they? Would that be solved if I finally switch over to a stand alone like the pimpxs unit i have been looking at? You were right about my dizzy and the pick up coil going bad, swapped in a cheap autozone one but it’s been working, been thinking about eventually getting a hot forged aluminum one.
 
A standalone like PimpXS would replace the ECU. With these cars being as old as they are a bunch of the electrical stuff is bound to fail. The issues you are having are in all of our worst nightmares.

One or two clogged injectors usually won't keep a car from starting. I can't remember if you did it already...but...next time it won't start try wiggling those salt and pepper shakers behind the intake and trying again.

There is something we haven't gone over yet ( I think ). Behind the kick panel on the passenger side there's a relay....I believe its brown and the only one in that area. Those things have driven me nuts. When they go bad it will cause the same type of issues. Relays also are known to fail when they get hot....not working again until they cool down. The one they sell in the parts store is universal and will plug in the fuel pump, A/C, or ECU relay.
 
Awesome pics. Thanks for sharing. Sorry about the issues with your car though.

I’m hoping to attend Radwood Philly next month if I can get my horn fixed and pass a safety inspection, lol.
 
Gave a few things a try over the last few days and this car won’t go. In the first video at around 35 seconds you can hear the car like it was gonna fire and nothing. This is what it was doing at the car show to which I had to get it towed. Next day it fired up. Car hasn’t started up in last 4 days. Just cranks cranks sounds like it’s gonna and nothing. Spark is good, fuel pressure 30psi on both gauges. Fuel pump is priming! Tried the noid light but don’t know if this will really work with the car not cranking but there is a video of it. Am I suppose to try every injector clip? @90sickfox gave me the idea to try but just did the one. Also sprayed some starter fluid to no avail. I’m so confused at this point. The guy who I took my car to for the tune, he then took it to a shop with the dyno and they did it together. Anyways he stated maybe it’s the cold start ect tables are off or possibly needs more cranking fuel?? This is beyond me but does this sound like what it could be to any of you guys who know more about this than I do?

View: https://youtu.be/ngxOkzPYj8E


View: https://youtu.be/T_wC0Cy_PJQ
 
Think I recommended this to another member so ago but when was the last time you have replaced the fuel filter? I had the same problem on my black Mustang ended up replacing the entire ignition system just to find out that the fuel filter was clogged even though I just replaced it less than a year ago it's a cheap fix so might be a good idea just to replace it as for good measure. Just because you have fuel pressure doesn't mean that you have fuel flow
 
I just
Think I recommended this to another member so ago but when was the last time you have replaced the fuel filter? I had the same problem on my black Mustang ended up replacing the entire ignition system just to find out that the fuel filter was clogged even though I just replaced it less than a year ago it's a cheap fix so might be a good idea just to replace it as for good measure. Just because you have fuel pressure doesn't mean that you have fuel flow
I think it was me, but I just replaced this fuel filter again the day before the car show which was on Feb. 29th. The one in it was fairly new maybe a year or so old. Checked the gas and it seemed pretty clean, since I had picked up a new motorcraft one I said screw and tossed it in. Car ran fine after that, ran strong out to the car show, sat for a few hours and would not start up. Did exactly what it was doing in the video I just posted from the other day. Cranks and sounds like it’s gonna go and nothing. So this fuel filter is brand new give it take a few weeks.
 
Just my opinion but it really sounds like a timing / spark issue to me, maybe timing gear problem.
What brand distributor ?
You had the car tuned, is there an aftermarket ecu in the car or chip ?
An easy way to determine if it getting to much fuel during cranking is to put the pedal to the
floor then crank it, this cut fuel to injectors, probably not it but just a thought.
Adding more fuel during cranking would have to be done in the tune or with diy tuning software.
 
Just my opinion but it really sounds like a timing / spark issue to me, maybe timing gear problem.
What brand distributor ?
You had the car tuned, is there an aftermarket ecu in the car or chip ?
An easy way to determine if it getting to much fuel during cranking is to put the pedal to the
floor then crank it, this cut fuel to injectors, probably not it but just a thought.
Adding more fuel during cranking would have to be done in the tune or with diy tuning software.
So car was tuned, has a SCT chip in it. So I’ve tried just cranking it, pedaling it during cranking, as well as pedal floored and cranking and I get all the same. You can hear when I pedal down and it gets going like it’s gonna do it and nothing. I currently have a cheap autzone believe duralast because my original after getting it back from the tune etc first the tfi module went bad, then the pick up coil. So I put this one in and it’s been working “fine” with the occasional shut off. Then it started doing this issue. Now the car just won’t start. I checked the plugs recently and all were good. Checked the coil plug and good spark. So idk where to go from there. I can do something but I’m not great as far as advanced mechanical tech stuff.
 
If it were me I would pull the distributor inspect and or replace with a known good one and see what you get,
preferably one with Ford electronics.

I had a similar cranks but no start issue , went through all the testing of fuel spark etc.
On the advice of a friend I ended up pulling the distributor and found the oil pump drive shaft was
twisted like a Twizzler thus throwing the timing off. Ended up finding a piece of rocker spring clip
wedged in the oil pump !
Not saying this is what's happening to you but just throwing out some ideas.
 
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Even things like the shutter wheel being aftermarket can affect proper spark, tooth size and spacing can be different.
When I first built my 393w I had an intermittent miss issue that I finally fixed by installing a Ford factory shutter wheel
from and old distributor.
 
Ok, basics. Fuel. Spark. Air.
if you sprayed starter fluid into it and it don't start than it is a spark issue.
Oh, and for the record, pumping the accelerator does nothing in a efi system. Either hold the pedel down a little while cranking or don't press it at all. There is no accelerator pump. You can hold the pedal to the floor to stop fuel flow into the cylinders.
Also a slow cranking engine can impede startup.
Go to the 'cranks ok but no start checklist' (and don't say you have been through it) look for the section about spark, it should be right after the fuel pressure section. First thing I believe it says someplace in the list is to unplug the chip. It also says to see if it will crank up with the spout removed.
Read through then do that part of the checklist.
I'm betting it's the chip or the distributor/tfs related but don't jump to conclusions.
 
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