- Jul 12, 2017
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Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
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Ha will do, trying to get this all done by this weekend so I’ll post up some better pics once I get the dash all back together.Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
Honestly it was actually pretty easy once I got over the wiring fear last night and just went for it. The majority of it was all just plug and play connect the dots except those oil and water which I just ended up using the included male plug then heat shrunk them and plugged them into the ground, 12v, and illumination feeds already in the wire loom, same for the led indicators and plugged them in to their correct wires. It actually came with a detailed explanation so you know what the wires are for in the P&P wire loom, so you can connect everything fairly easy, get your indicators correct. Some stuff I did away with bc I didn’t want a bunch of led indicators all over the place. What exactly is the MIL light? Is that check engine or what’s that on our cars.Sure is a lot of wires! I can see why that was tricky. Gauges look good Devil! Take a picture of them in the dark.
Awe man that sounds intense! Guess I’ll take a look at it.The best spot I've found to run wire into the engine bay is through a grommet behind the left fender. It's very hard to get to. I always remove the whole fender... but you may be able to reach it by removing the fender liner and wheel. If you look in the hinge area you might see it.
I ran a couple extra wires through mine so I wouldn't have to take the fender off to run more. Just rolled them up and hid them behind the drivers strut tower / booster area.
This makes me happy to hear . It’s hard to explain on the internet sometimes and get the point across not sounding like an ass . I’m glad you tackled it on your own . Looks sick . Hope I was able to help someHonestly it was actually pretty easy once I got over the wiring fear last night and just went for it. The majority of it was all just plug and play connect the dots except those oil and water which I just ended up using the included male plug then heat shrunk them and plugged them into the ground, 12v, and illumination feeds already in the wire loom, same for the led indicators and plugged them in to their correct wires. It actually came with a detailed explanation so you know what the wires are for in the P&P wire loom, so you can connect everything fairly easy, get your indicators correct. Some stuff I did away with bc I didn’t want a bunch of led indicators all over the place. What exactly is the MIL light? Is that check engine or what’s that on our cars.
Appreciate it man, ha yeah I get it but I don’t get offended easily. I’m just glad I could get done. Here is a question for you or anyone else. So got all the senders plugged in decided to run everything out through the old grommet area where the original speedo cable ran through and looks really clean but i need to buy some wire loom. Anyways plugged the cluster in, cranked it and car is running like crap. Hit the battery with a multimeter I bought and reading of 11.7 only bc I noticed the volt meter not showing good charge. Hit the alternator and about the same 11.5, plugged the old cluster back in just to check bang battery 14.6 alternator 14.8, then I read through the instructions and saw this. I now a 12v source from my fans but not sure if I need to run a jumper permanently or is it just a contact the 12v source and touch it to the the green/red stripe wire and that’s it?This makes me happy to hear . It’s hard to explain on the internet sometimes and get the point across not sounding like an ass . I’m glad you tackled it on your own . Looks sick . Hope I was able to help some
So is it just a touch and touch or more of a permanent wire jump?Yup stock cluster has a resistor installed inline with the battery light
Ok just wasn’t sure which I needed to do. Here’s another question but I’m pretty sure I have to replace the gear off the old sensor and put it on the new one right?Permanent.
Stock cluster runs the warnin indicator with a resistor inline to the alt through the LG/R wire