Progress Thread Let's try this again...

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I think I sort of fixed it.

Apparently part of the conversion requires you to pull the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor. For some reason I forgot to do that, so I pulled it off and plugged the hose with a screw and a zip tie. I figure it’s a temporary fix until I can get a vacuum cap and cap it off at the tree.

After all that, the car started and ran like garbage for a little bit before it evened out. It still idles a little low and I think it’s running a bit rich, but the throttle response is way faster and it seems to rev much smoother as well. When I pushed the gas pedal on speed density, I could hear the throttle body open and suck in a gulp of air before the engine would do anything. Now it’s instant.
 
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Here’s the end of the wire:
68B0EE30-CB31-437F-97B8-8E2B66EC2878.jpeg
 
I’m also thinking about upgrading the top end. Would I need new injectors for a mild cam and trick flow heads?

I think I’m just going to buy the parts separately rather than get the kit, because from what I’ve read the gt-40 intake flows pretty well, so I really would only need the heads and cam. It has a 1985 rotating assembly, so valve clearance shouldn’t be a big issue.

Obviously, I want to get this MAF thing and potential vacuum leaks ironed out before I do anything else to the motor.
 
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-k525-432-370

I've been eyeing this kit for the mustang since it includes everything but the intake manifold. How does this look to you guys? Would the cam be too aggressive for reliable street use? The description said their test engine made 430hp, but I'm guessing that wasn't a stock engine.

I'm giving up on the headlight covers. I can't get them to fit right, so now my car has holes in it's face and the double-sided tape pulled off some trim paint from the headlight buckets. I'm planning on having somebody take care of those this weekend. The guy I bought it from runs a body shop and he said he'd be willing to take care of any holes I made with the covers, I assume he'd be able to take care of the paint as well.

I was also pointed to a local guy that specializes in dyno tuning fuel injected mustangs by the restoration shop (I think they're getting tired of seeing me), so I'm planning on taking the car there as well. Even if everything is fine, I'm a little curious as to what hp numbers I'm making and he could also probably help me piece together a top end kit that would work.

I'm still taking the car in to the resto shop to get the wiring looked at for the window motor. I tried fixing it last weekend and after some fiddling I thought I had it set up properly, but then neither of the windows would roll down, so right now the door panel is in the trunk and I have some wires taped up and hanging out in the interior. Electricity is hard.

So all in all, it's looking like it's going to be a busy weekend.
 
If you look at the page you linked scroll down to the questions and about the 4th one lists the test engine as a 306ci, a little more compression, super competition hooker headers with 4" collectors, a 3" exhaust and a carb/ air gap intake setup so it was kinda skewed.
 
If you look at the page you linked scroll down to the questions and about the 4th one lists the test engine as a 306ci, a little more compression, super competition hooker headers with 4" collectors, a 3" exhaust and a carb/ air gap intake setup so it was kinda skewed.

Ok, I didn’t see that part. I’m ok with not making that kind of hp, 430 seems like the upper limit of what would be useable in a 3000 lb car on skinny street tires. This kit seems to be what I’m looking for, then. I’ll do some more research, but today’s payday and I have a bonus coming, so it should be a reasonable upgrade.

Here are some pictures of what I’ve been talking about with the wiring, I’ll add a short description to each.

5AEA3BCB-7B74-4E16-8B18-2AA1B751240B.jpeg

This is a cut black wire that I found when looking for the gray STI connector for the obd1 reader. I have no idea what it is or what it does, so if you guys have any ideas, that would be appreciated. It doesn’t seem to be hurting anything, so I’m ok with letting it be for now.


874ADAA0-C4D2-486B-8D4C-FC90E096304B.jpeg

This gray connector is what I was hoping was the STI connector, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Any ideas on what it does?


D4C36797-B6ED-451D-B90B-BD4DAEF78EB2.jpeg

And finally, this is how I wired up the passenger side window switch. I followed a chart and I think I did it right, but it still didn’t work.
 
After doing some reading, I think there's something wrong with my vacuum setup. This is probably going to sound like a really stupid question, but the MAP sensor isn't supposed to be connected to the vacuum tree, is it? Because that's what I disconnected it from when I did the conversion. I have no idea what's going on under the manifold itself.

I'm just trying to pinpoint why it idles so rough sometimes. On startup it's pretty bad until it warms up.
 
After doing some reading, I think there's something wrong with my vacuum setup. This is probably going to sound like a really stupid question, but the MAP sensor isn't supposed to be connected to the vacuum tree, is it? .

If you've converted the car over to Mass Air than no you leave that port open on the MAP sensor making it a BAP.. If the car is still Speed Density then you must have a vacuum line from the MAP to the manifold.
 
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Vacuum tree should get vacuum from the manifold. So connecting a vac line to the tree or manifold, no difference. Basically whatever is more convenient.
 
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93 cobra intake didn’t have the provision, so I had no choice.

now, the most ideal way would be to connect it to the manifokd to measure direct vacuum if you can do it. But I wouldn’t lose sleep if you couldn’t
 
So recently I converted the car to mass air, also got it tuned so that it works properly. The dyno shop told me 222 hp at the wheels and 290 torque.

The chip and tune cost me about a grand and everything was working except for the windows (need new regulators) until yesterday when this happened:
097F8E66-CC3D-468E-9E1C-A04F06B19654.jpeg

F64533CB-C385-44EF-BE93-4734A8B8A6EE.jpeg

guy in front of me made an emergency stop, it was a downhill slope and my brakes locked up. I have a newfound appreciation for ABS. Everyone was ok, but there were 3 other cars involved and I think things were piling up before I got there but it would be impossible to prove that.

Unfortunately, being the last in line means the law automatically puts me at fault for all of it, so one of the three other people wanted the police to issue a citation, so now I have that as well. My insurance will pay to fix the damage on all their cars if necessary, but the damage to my car is on me.

The guy I bought it from owns a body shop and says it’s fixable, but I still have to get it in to find out how much this will all cost. The damage is only to the front bumper and left fender. The door doesn’t really open, the tires rub on the fender and the metal cracked on the radiator support which freaked me out.

It‘s been a really crappy week.
 

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