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Nobody got this reference? :shrug:

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:leaving:
 
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I mean it would take all of 30 seconds to stroll over to the car, pop the hood, look at cyl 1 on the pass side, look right at the corner of the head near the valve cover and see if there is an “S” or a “T” there.

that would be a start.

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I believe he was told that on FB about 12 times . Lol
 
There are non-HO roller cams.

Until you pull a VC and confirm valve timing events, it has not been confirmed that your cam is a non-HO firing order. You really need to dig into the engine more and identify the parts you have on it. There are clues all over which many people on many different media formats have given you great advice on what to check, but from what I can see you actually haven't done any of those things.

It wouldn't be the first time i've seen someone toss a 87+ non-HO short or long block from a crown vic into a Mustang after blowing the engine and rewiring the injector harness to work with the HO ECU. Used to be quite common 10-15 years or so ago when 5.0 non-HO's were cheap and everywhere in the junkyards and explorer motors were still too expensive. Blow the motor, get it running cheapest way possible, and let the next guy worry about it.
Before i got this car, I didnt know what a spout connector was, Didnt know there was a difference in any 5.0 or 302 motor.. didnt know what an intake manifold was, and thought lx ment 4 cyl... do you really want me to take apart half my motor to confirm 9 the vac lines that ppl nalways tell m
 
I believe he was told that on FB about 12 times . Lol



Look, Im not one of those ppl that got a Foxbody do make a Race Car. It was a Good Deal and needed a car badly, I thought I could be able to trade for something nice or really reliable.. So I went there, looked at it, and it drove good on test drive, but after bought it.. like 2 miles down road.. it started Bucking and Snatching..

Well a month later after yall telling me Vacuum Lines are messed up and It prob has leaks.. which i did know but I CANT JUST TRUST THE INTERNET... Im not a Mechanic nor Troll.. So i have to go do research on how say for example The vac lines go and how the emissions work so i did and then i did get help from someone that legit knew alot.. it ran great.. fixed it.. then slowly the bad hesition came back... so i asked and gave basically the same symtoms agian.. most said "told you fix your vac leaks.. "He wont listen dont know what is the EEC IV Codes".. after telling yall well i got a code 11 at first and 99 on KOER... and fastward with the Timing it by ear and seeing if i can get the 13726548 Firing Order.. (I know i was doing it right but just didnt work.. sounded like :poo: .. redidi it to 15426378 and surprise.. i found it close enough to drive... and then found my other issue at that tine was a base idke reset
. it was temperarry fix to get to work too... Yall Claim I never Listen, but The 2000 Sable TPS I needed that to work.. again i repeat.. I didnt want it to.... i needed it to... btw it works and just splice wire and replace like OEMs TPS..
They are really knowledgable ppl on these cars here and i Respect and approciate any and all Advice and Opinions from Expert.. Dont need a Butt Hurt Kid saying i told you so weeks ago, its your Vac Lines when i have them capped, clamped, glued and taped...or say we tried to help but you never listened..... now tear apart your motor like we told you to so you can verify that it is ****.. like atm i canylt even ask yall about my distributor cap being wobbly, give advice on others ppls problems and or sell it when its running right without yall harrassing me across the internet cuz i be giving my personal opinion on a a similar issue.. anyone can follow a books directions (i can tell alot yall do) but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.. and at the end of the day yall never mentioned my Air Filter getting turbulent hot air, the pcv valve being stuck (current Issue) the cap wobbly, or ever suggested a Base Idle Reset
Just usually what yall always say... fix Vac Lines.. its only a 60 bucks for the stuff that was missing from car.. or hey Noob with the car running like :poo:.. yeah you.. after you change your Oil that you struggle to do... Tear apart your motor without having Gaskets, Permatex, knowledge, or fr the Tools to.. im sure i can make it to work tomorrow..

TLDR
Dont be Salty I didnt tear apart motor.. fr what woukd that have done to fix this pcv valve..or the cold air intake, or the tv kickdown cable...
That Being Said I Do make an occassional joke and can take one and critiz
There are non-HO roller cams.

Until you pull a VC and confirm valve timing events, it has not been confirmed that your cam is a non-HO firing order. You really need to dig into the engine more and identify the parts you have on it. There are clues all over which many people on many different media formats have given you great advice on what to check, but from what I can see you actually haven't done any of those things.

It wouldn't be the first time i've seen someone toss a 87+ non-HO short or long block from a crown vic into a Mustang after blowing the engine and rewiring the injector harness to work with the HO ECU. Used to be quite common 10-15 years or so ago when 5.0 non-HO's were cheap and everywhere in the junkyards and explorer motors were still too expensive. Blow the motor, get it running cheapest way possible, and let the next guy worry about it.

sm..
 
Auto lite 25s were used on E7 heads. Would help to confirm that with the letter on the head.

E6SE is the proper part number for the lower intake manifold. Problem is the lower was used on the HO and non-HO. There may be a date code cast in the front.

injectors are correct 19#. They work with your ECU. What are the part numbers on the mass air flow meter??

so far everything looks originsl and correct.
and i will send this to original thread or general will prob auto do that but ima go record short vid and ill upload it to yt or something basically showing and explaining what i know.. and it is running good right now but it fr will randomly pick days to buck and snatch
 
i have two maf sensors ngl and the open filter cone bs lol i wanna go to stock but tbh stock airbox is more expensive than cold air intake and thank you fr as you can tell i know alot and been doing research but only learn so much in 3 months and still work on it lol and im walking out door now amd will try to make it only 5 mins tops on the vid
 
I’m out. I hate it when one is beyond helping.

I moved all his replies to this thread. He’s posted info since, I just moved it all.



just gonna lock this one down
 
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