Location Of Spare Tire Hold Down Bracket On 67

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by other_shoe, May 21, 2013.

  1. I had my local Mustang body guy weld on a new spare hold down bracket after the old triangular one was lost in an earlier botched restoration. He used a different type, but I can live with that. The problem is that the bracket is now several inches fore of where I would think it should be such that the threaded shaft comes through the plane of the wheel at about a 30 degree angle (i.e. considerably skew from plumb). I don't think that is correct and have not been able to adequately secure the spare with this positioning.

    The guy insists he's right on the placement. I'd be very grateful if someone could tell me either in measurements or a rule of thumb where this bracket should be.
  2. the bracket is 15 inches to the center of the eyelet from the lower part of the tail panel where the bumper bolts passes through. this one has never been replaced IMG_3175.JPG IMG_3176.JPG
  3. Thank you kindly, horse sence.
  4. And, yes, it turns out my bracket is 2+ inches fore of that spot.
  5. Finally, got the proper bracket mounted in the proper place and the right hardware. It's so nice to have the tire secure and much less rattling from the trunk.

    Now if I can just figure out how to patch the damage to the drain gutter for the convertible top, I can finish the trunk out and use it for stuff I want to keep nice.
  6. How bad is the damage ?Any pics?
  7. I'll have to wait until the weekend for pics, but there are at a minimum two problems. First, there is a gash on the inside lip of the gutter that looks a lot like the handiwork of my first body guy's air chisel (also responsible for my now-repaired leaking cowl). Second, there is some seepage at the overlap between the middle and side sections.

    There may also be some water coming through the holes made by the lag bolts that someone used for attaching the tack strip. I do not think there is rust damage other than whatever is going on in the overlap.

    I have a pretty good idea of what it would take to repair the problems to my total satisfaction. But that isn't going to happen any time soon, and I'm having to drive the car more than I'd planned. So I'm probably going to see if I can significantly reduce the leak with a putty like JB Weld's steel stick.
  8. If the gap isn't to wide fill it with 3M tan seam sealer,use masking tape on the back side until the sealer sets up .The bottom of the channel is supposed to be sealed with seam sealer also .It normally would have had about 3/16 inch thick sealer in the bottom of the channel ,Some one must have removed it .
  9. Thanks. I'll try that.