LOL gonna put a 460 in my foxbody...

bluevenom867 said:
Oh and the blue dude Smock is hitting with the chair is Gearbanger 101..
I'm not sure it this was suppose to be a shot at me, or not? Either way, I'm not trying to piss in anyone’s cornflakes here guys. Just keeping it real. It's definitely not a project for a beginner (or even moderately mechanically inclined) person on a limited budget to tackle.
 
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I think if it used for an everyday driver than its not worth the $50, buy it and sell it for a couple grand and build up what you have. Gas mileage especially on a built 460 is not even worth driving but a quarter mile at a time. However if you are going for a N/A car mainly for the strip than thats a good way to go, a buddy of mine had a 92 with a 460 pushing about a grand to the rear wheels, but had about a galloon to the quarter mile for gas mileage.
 
There is an 804ci stroker kit for 460's available from RPM Machine..
Were talking a 2 liter mountain dew bottle for a cylinder here...

Thats a 13.3L badge on the side of your fox.... the 804's will make over 1,000hp N/A no problem.

ONe advantage to 700lbs of motor in the front of your stang? It will keep the front on the ground :).
 
bluevenom867 said:
Just wanna know,why would he put a built 460 in a bronco?
If this doesn't make sense to anyone else tell me.

Some of the most popular bronco's to restore and make into show vehicles/rock climbers/mud racers are the 1978-1979 Broncos. Most of them came with either a 351M or 400M, neither of which have a large selection of performance parts. However, both the 351M & 400M (Same block & heads, diff. crank & pistons for the 400) share the same engine mounts and bellhousing bolt patern as the 429 and 460 big blocks. Since most of the bronco's mentioned above also came with a C6 auto it is no surpize that many people swap in a "built" 460 rather than sinking money into a 351 or 400M, especially when the owner is looking for large amounts of torque at low rpms. (ideal for a rock climber).

Hope this answers your questions.
 
I at one point was going to do the BB fox swap. Here's what I found out.

I could make just as much power for the same amount of money with a 302 engine as I could with a 460.

Also I would have added a ton of weight to the front which is the WORST place to add weight to a fox. For every 1 pound you take off in front of the bulkhead, it's like taking 7 pounds off the weight of the entire car.

Stock cranks and blocks are only good to about 700hp and the rods I beleve are a little less. I look at making more HP than that which would have my block alone costing me 4K and then the crank and rods. My Boss block will take in excess of 900hp and high rpm.

As for keeping the tires on the ground it can be done with a good suspension. You don't see John Force popping wheeles.

I also didn't want to go with a toploader or a power robbing c6. I like my TKO just fine.

Also I plan on running pizza cutters up front even on the street which I will drive on occasion. With all that weight in the front it's an accident waiting for a place to happen. The tires could roll off the rim easily.

Also a good set of quality aluminum heads only weigh a few pounds less than the cast iron heads. If your talking about a set of 3.8L thunderbird heads that's a complete different story.

I'm not pro bigblock or small block. Whatever you choose is cool and more power to ya.

I do beleve that you can get bang for the buck out of either engine. Just depends on what your goals are.
 
Michael Yount said:
Oh - thanks for the heads up on the physical fit - I was under the impression that the strut towers had to be massaged for clearance. I'm wondering though, does the engine have to be positioned a bit further forward for bell housing/tunnel clearance - or is there enough room?


I do beleve you will need at lease a 2" cowl for the BB to fit. I also think I read something about it being moved farther backwards to mate up with the transmission.
 
giddyup - "For every 1 pound you take off in front of the bulkhead, it's like taking 7 pounds off the weight of the entire car. "

??? I'm curious about your math - just how does that work? Since most of our engines (302) are around 500 pounds, and most of our cars are around 3000 pounds, if your 'ratio' is correct, when we pull our engines out, won't the rest of the car just float away? :)
 
I'm talking about drag race conditions and how it will show up on et's. It all has to do with weight distribution (not physical weight). I'm not going to put anyones name on the line but I got it from a credible source.
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
....I dare you to find a new set of Alumiium heads and intake for the cost of a $1500-$1600. I've can think of half a dozen for a carbureted 302/351. How's your search going?

Summit Racing - Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum heads - $880 each, assembled. That $1760 pair. $250-$300 for any good intake. Pretty darn close to your numbers.

As for any Big Block vs Small Block questions....all other things being equal the BB will make more torque and more hp. Will cost a little more, but not as much more as some would think.
 
tjm73 said:
Summit Racing - Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum heads - $880 each, assembled. That $1760 pair. $250-$300 for any good intake. Pretty darn close to your numbers.

As for any Big Block vs Small Block questions....all other things being equal the BB will make more torque and more hp. Will cost a little more, but not as much more as some would think.

Will cost a little more?!? I Thought we'd already been throgh this. B/B parts are still way more expensive any way you slice it. When you consider your head and intake total of $2050.00 give or take is still higher than $1320.00 for SB heads and intake.

Now price out headers next.....I'll wait.

Bottom line, it's still a pretty big gap to fill pricewise. "Not as expensive as most think"......Ha! I'd venture to say its twice as expensive than most may think. In a car that's already tailor made for a bigblock maybe cost would be less of an issue, but putting it in a fox body Mustang........total it up. The cost of the engine build is bad enough, but t's all the the supporting parts and hidden cost that will kill ya!

I agree....a big block will make more power, but the power was never my arguement. It was the cost, effort and other negatives (emmisions, weight, fuel economy) that are what's working against him.

And that's what most people who just blurt out "big block...nuff said" aren't thinking of. These are the people who end up selling half finished projects on Ebay because they didn't think things through and got in over thier head.
 
bluevenom867 said:
HOLY $H!T
A 804!!?
Damn I could see that with about 11:1 comp. then a 500 shot :D

I come from a big block family. My dad and his friend thats all they run. I have an FE390 .030 over for my racecar, but for the street a small blosk is the way to go. My dad 77 mustnag has a 503 it goes high 8's. His two buddy has a 509, and the other a 540 there both in a dragster and go mid 7's and 7.0's with NOS. And right now we are helping him build a pinot with with a 528ci motor with 16:1 compression. This is going to be one bad ass car.

hese is my Falcon with a 390 bored to a 396
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This is my dad car with a 503ci motor
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This is one of his buddies car with a 540ci motor
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I dont have pic of the other dragster or pinto yet.