Exhaust Longtubes Lowering Springs And Shocks

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by wheelyman19, May 7, 2013.

  1. Well I have been busy parts like crazy the last couple months and now I'm bout ready to start putting some of it in!! I bought pypes longtube headers and h pipe along with tokico shocks and eibach pro kit spring. I plan to drop the front suspension to do the longtubes and I figured I might as well put shocks and springs in at the same time. I bought all the springs shocks and longtubes off of the same car. They are all used but were only on the car for around 5000 miles, and you can tell the shocks look brand new yet. I paid a total of 700 dollars for it all!!! That's the price of the headers alone!! Now I plan on dropping the front suspension to do the longtubes so what I'm wondering is there any thing I should change or repair while I'm down there? My plans for the car are pretty much drag racing don't really plan of smashing corners or any thing. I got the stage 8 header bolts on order and I plan on running no isos up front Maybe the bottoms in the rear. Any help with the things I should do while I'm down there. Thanks!!! image.jpg image.jpg
  2. You'll be fine. I've got H&R SS springs (which lower it a lot more than the pro kit) without iso's and I scrape if I don't take it easy on speed bumps and the such. There's not much else than can be done to avoid it.
  3. Well I got all my parts put in. Took a total of about 2 weeks lol. I know what everyone will think. ( how the h**l did it take that long??!!) but long story short we broke the oil fill tube and had to order on:( but all is good and she's back together now and very happy with every thing!! The car sits really nice and I am very happy with the tokico blues, I can even tell that I lowered it or anything!! The pypes longtube fit very nicely. I used summit stage 8 locking bolts and needless to say I would never buy them again, to get them started was damn near impossible. But we got them in somehow, the stock ones threaded in very nicely then we tried to start the summit ones and it was a pain!! But all is good and no leaks and the sound is awesome!! Well while the car was on the lift we put my 373 gears in. Now this is where I need help. We put them in all new bearing every where and torqued and used the dial indicator for backlash and got it almost perfect we set them at .009. Now when we put the pinion in we used an old torque wrench instead of an inch pound wrend and tightened it down to 2-2.5 foot pounds which shud be close to 30 inch pounds which was recommend. Now the question is. Is that pretty accurate? The pattern turned out pretty good, but when we took the car out there was a wine when we slowed down... Is that normal? I can't tell as I had a bearing out somewhere back there prior to install so not sure if its normal.. No wine while accelerating just when u take your foot off the gas... If someone could chime in and tell me if we did it right or we f'ed somthing up.. Sorry for the long post just had some info to share lol. Thanks in advance!!!
  4. I would personally sell those shocks/springs. I've run them on my 2 of my 3- 2v mustangs. They are horrible at transferring weight and stiff.

    Look in to used fox body springs and Lakewood shocks/struts. Much better at the strip.
  5. I'm actually very please with the shocks, strut and spring combo. Only planning to hit the track maybe 2-3 times a year.
  6. If your backlash was .009 then you should be good. Did you re-use the pinion shim?
  7. Only thing I can confirm is yes, your in/lbs to ft/lbs calculations are right. Just multiples of 12. 2-2.5 ft/lbs would be 24-30 in/lbs.

    Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  8. K thanks! Does your car make a sort of wine sound when your slowing down or did we not do something right?? Yes we reused the pinion shims off the old pinion.