SN95 Looking For A 351w?

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by ry94stang50, Oct 12, 2013.

  1. As far as blocks are concerned....Get the earlier blocks with the thicker webbing or the later 94-97 (i believe) Set up for roller.

    There is a ton of nickel and dime parts....BUT You can find alot of used stuff on Ebay. I just saw a 351 EFI Distributor the other day for around $30-50 shipped. Which oddly enough has a build quality better than the MSD that everyone runs out to buy. You can't go wrong with OEM parts.....AS LONG AS INTAKE AIR DOESNT TOUCH THEM. lol You don't want stock heads on any performance SBF

    If you can get the block and some AFR 185's at least i would get some dished pistons Football factory rods. Spider intake.

    The brunt of your money will be on the HCI Figure about $1000 more to build a HCI SBF 351 than a 302 but thats because intake prices are outrageous and you will need to buy heads better suited for a 347+ than a 302.

    Contact a local Junk Yard for a 351 or "Car-parts" website.
  2. I'd say the 4 bolt 347 will end up costing about the same as the 351. I would say the 408 would end up costing about 200% to 250% of the original comparison. Once you jump out of the mainstream mod group the prices start escalating really quickly. The engine itself might only cost 10% more, but the drivetrain you need to put behind a 408 starts getting pricey fast. Its' going to take a big money transmission, and a totally redone axle. Most of the people who say that a 408 is affordable are saying so because they really built a 408 with 347 power. They payed big money for a bunch of displacement they didn't need, and then slapped a set of 185cc heads on top to choke it all back down to 302 power.

    f8tlfiveo likes this.
  3. Ok that makes sense. Yea, never mind the cost of the motor itself. Trannies and rear-ends are expensive as crap.
  4. For a ford Strokers built longblock=yes. As for the additional costs I assume anybody is going to upgrade those in the first place. If it's just a basic H/C/I bolt on street type built you don't need to upgrade everything. But if you're going to use forced induction or increase the power any other way the stock drivetrain isn't capable of handling it i.e t5 etc. just depends on what the individual goals are. OP sounds like he just needs an overhaul with H/C/I upgrade and enjoy it
    85rkyboby and 90lxwhite like this.
  5. I'd have to agree w the last statement. If I'm not mistaken I believe it's his pseudo daily driver. 408 would be over kill for a trip to the piggly wiggly
    85rkyboby likes this.
  6. I say why stop with the 408 ;) The more the merrier in my opinion (Think Dart based 438):cool: Never mind the the thousands of dollars in transmission/rear axle/suspension/etc. that would have to be invested.
  7. My problem is I don't don't want to dump all this money in a 347 when there's no room for more power after its built. The 500hp limit on the 302 block is a downer.

    The other thing I've been thinking about is I can get the same kind of power with a hci swap and a low end supercharger or turbo on a stock block.
    For now I think that's the direction I'm going to go. I feel that would make a better dd.
    #27 ry94stang50, Oct 14, 2013
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2013
  8. I actually just found out that I can get a reman long block from ATK on ebay for around 1700 $. And it has a 3 yr unlimited mile warranty. That's not a bad price imo. Prob wouldn't ever buy something like that off ebay but its a good price ref. Lol
  9. realistically wtf are you going to do with 500+ hp? I want and Apache attack helicopter but the fact that Uncle Sam says I cant have one is jsut a downer.
    Stroker? supercharger? potato-potatoe, 6 of one half dozen of the other. REad up on the SC kits. by the time you get it alll going you arent saving any cash and you aer still going to max your block.
    85rkyboby likes this.
  10. I know all about sc. That would be the second half of the process. Way down the road. I know with an hci swap and a sc ill still be lucky to be 450rwhp. Ill be fine with just the hci swap for a awhile.
    stykthyn likes this.
  11. With H-C-I and a SC/Turbo you'll be well into 450...
  12. Unless you drag race regularly, having more than 500hp isn't that desirable. All it's good for is braking parts, and smoking tires. I never spray on the street. Without the nitrous, the engine spins the tires in all but fourth and fifth gear. I couldn't really imagine wanting more power for the street. If I was going to the track twice a month, I would want a 4 bolt main with a second kit, or big windsor stroker. For a street car, it's just not worth the hassle. Just be more of a money pit, and suck up more gas. Or maybe I'm just getting old.

  13. So fill me in. The vortech v3 kit w the fmu isn't a bolt on and go kit? Other than tune what else is needed? Yeah I know fmu is a "bandaid" but I also hear that for a mild stockish build it'll get ya around. On another note; I used to work on a 16,000 hp hovercraft (LCAC- landing craft air cushion). If one farted too loudly it'd break. Bottom line mil spec stuff is over rated.
  14. Same engine is $1625 at Advance, and you don't have to pay freight there.*14923|L2*15031|L3*16033

  15. Just to be clear I don't want 500hp lol I never said that. I would be happy at anything over 300 after an hci swap.

    And just out of curiosity, what's the funest to drive of these two. A- 347 or B- Sc 302 both at say 350-400hp as a daily driver?
  16. my vote is 347. just less parts and less likely for things to go wrong. power is always there and you dont have to worry about boost related issues.
    ry94stang50 likes this.
  17. I guess it's more a matter of how you drive it. If you can deal with the low end of the scale at 350hp, I would go with a Trick Flow kit on a fresh 306. That's definitely going to give you the least amount of problems.

  18. Thanks kurt. I know I've been all over the place with what engine setup I'm going with. Started at a regular rebuild went all the way up to a 347 and now I'm back down to a rebuild again. Being that its my dd I should prob keep it as close to factory as possible for reliability purposes. So a fresh 306 with a good hci setup sounds good to me. Plus its a hell of a lot cheaper then a 347 lol. I figure I can get the 306 with the trick flow setup fpr around a grand or two cheaper. And would roughly have the same power gains. The 347 I had got a quote for was around 360 hp. So a 306 with a stage 2 or 3 cam, 185 or higher heada and the track heat mani should get me close to that right? Also with this setup am I going to need to upgrade the fuel system? (Injectors and fuel pump)
  19. I don't know all the Trick Flow packages by heart. There is a kit that is rated at 350hp on a basically stock bottom end. You definitely don't need a 3 cam. I would stick to whatever they put in the kit. I do know that there are much better places to spend the money on than a bottom end. Instead of building a stroker, spend the money on a good set of longtubes, a good clutch, some drivetrain parts, and a good tune. That will yield much more overall performance and enhance driveability over the extra displacement. There has also been a transformation in stroker kits since I built mine. When I built my stroker, there were only a handful of kits, and almost all of them had quality forged parts made in America. Now there has been an influx of Chinese parts to drive down the cost of a stroker. I'd put my money behind a remachined stock crank and rods over a Chinese stroker crank and rods any day of the week. If you don't intend to use any power adders, there is nothing wrong with rebuilding the engine with cast hypereutectic pistons. They will be plenty strong enough, and will increase engine life over forged ones. Spend your money on a good gaskets, a good oil pump, good bearings, good motor mounts, stuff like that. I like to use the oil pan gasket as an example. Felpro makes a one piece oil pan gasket that is damn near $40. But it seals everytime the first time, and it is re usable. If you get one of those cork and rubber abominations, it's got about a 50% chance of leaking. There is nothing like building a new engine, and then you deal with an oil drip in the driveway for the next 5 years because it's not worth the effort to change that gasket. There is nothing like shooting your wad on a big stroker engine, and then you don't like driving the car because you didn't have any money left over for supporting mods, and it drives like crap. You need to get with a good engine builder. It will cost you a little extra money, but it's worth it in the end. There are little details that only a good machinest knows. There isn't enough expertise on forums like this to get you through the whole process on your own. My favorite example is cam advice. About once a week we get a question on this forum on what cam to run. I can guarantee that I don't know what cam you should run in your combo, and same goes for about everyone else here who posts. Rick is about the only one here that has built enough engines to give solid cam advice.

  20. Good point kurt. With the money I will be saving from not going the stroker route I can throw into other places. Like my suspension. Its all aftermarket but I'm still thinking about replacing the whole damn setup. Just so I know what I have. I'm thinking about all new springs and shocks ect. One more question do you think the t5 would be good enough for 300-350hp? The car won't see thetrack to often and prob wowon't ever have slicks on her. Or could I get away with beefing the t5 up or should I still get a different trans?