Lost Oil Pressure!
- Thread starter smkshw
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1. no one told him to spin it with 0 oil pressure. if you read his posts you may see that he clearly posted that he has 5 psi using the drill. not even an inaccurate oil pressure gauge will read above 0 if there is 0 pressure.
2. he said his pressure went to 0 or near 0 while driving. this is much more rpm that the starter will turn the engine at.
3. since he lost pressure at cruising rpm if there was any damage done it was done then which means it has to ne repaired anyway.
4. bearings float on just 2 psi of oil pressure. this means that at 2 psi or above, there will be no metal to metal contact between the bearings and the rotating surfaces.
5. he said there was no metal in the oil so spinning the engine at starter speed with 5 psi of oil pressure would not damage it oin any way.
yeah based on your info it was obviously the pump or the plugs.
And cleaning it frequently will reduce the amount of metal that gets in the galley then cleaning the threads out with q tips and paint thinner will remove a lot more.
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Even at 5psi bumping the engine over hard enough to get a compression test could damage rings/bearings, furthermore what would a compression test illuminate in a low oil pressure situation??!!?? Absolutely nothing.
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Most engines typically develop between around 135 – 165 psi cylinder pressure at around 600 rpm when it is not firing.
When the engine is firing, it develops far more pressure even at idle. Most engines can idle all day long with only a 5 psi of pressure.
It is intelligent to determine the cause of a problem if [possible before simply changi8ne parts and hoping the problem gets fixed.
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Absolutely wrong, irregardless of where ever you got this info from.
Most engines typically develop between around 135 – 165 psi cylinder pressure at around 600 rpm when it is not firing.
When the engine is firing, it develops far more pressure even at idle. Most engines can idle all day long with only a 5 psi of pressure.
An obvious deduction, however, that was not the point of it. He also said that his oil level was low, therefore since he said he was going to pill it, it seemed intelligent to try and determine why it was losing oil so he could address this while he had it apart.
It is intelligent to determine the cause of a problem if [possible before simply changi8ne parts and hoping the problem gets fixed.
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Going back over this thread no one g suggested pulling it changing parts before oil diagnostics were run. An engine that was running 50 psi consistently abd then dropping down to 5 with a pressure tester in the sender port obviously has had an issue. At this point what would a compression test solve? Absolutely nothing. In fact a low oil condition would further skew any compression readings. You are way off base on this one. Op found the issue, will fix it and continue to enjoy his engine.
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I suggest you gain some experience about engines before offering suggestions to others on this topic, especially before you try calling people out in what has been vain attempts on your part to prove them wrong etc.. This will hopefully reduce the amount of inaccurate statements you make.
It is irrelevant whether he was going to pull his engine or not. In his very first post, he said his oil level was low and asked for suggestions to determine the cause of his problems of which oil loss was one.
An obvious deduction and it is one of the reasons I suggested he check his oil galley plugs, which he said he did based on my suggestion. See previous posts.
I answered this for you in my previous post.
Unfortunately you are wrong again. Oil has an imperceprible affect on compression unless it is fed in thru the spark plug hole as it is when doing a “wet” compression test.
I was the only one to mention oil galley plugs as on potential cause of his problem. This is because I have seen this same problem several times during my 40 years of working on cars.
You are simply posting to be argumentative and abrasive at this point and obviously seem to have some agenda to “try” and prove me wrong.
I suggest you gain some experience about engines before offering suggestions to others on this topic, especially before you try calling people out in what has been vain attempts on your part to prove them wrong etc.. This will hopefully reduce the amount of inaccurate statements you make.
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well thanks for everyones replies,after reading the net and the replies on here i now know every way an engine can loose oil pressure!,im a decent back yard wrencher,but i never had an oil galley plug fail before!,but its nice to find the problem!
my engine is now pulled,seems good to go!,now im wondering since its out if i should do a cam swap,always wanted to know what this custom cam talk was all about?,plus i did all this work?,a little change may make it worth it....new thread coming soon i think....lol
my engine is now pulled,seems good to go!,now im wondering since its out if i should do a cam swap,always wanted to know what this custom cam talk was all about?,plus i did all this work?,a little change may make it worth it....new thread coming soon i think....lol
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Hello smkshw;
Assessing whether a galley plug may be too loose is a bit of an art. Obviously if you can push one in by hand, it has a reasonable probability of falling out. By the same token, if it takes a 3 lb hammer to install it, it obviously has a reasonable possibility of staying in.
I have never seen a damaged galley hole. All the plugs I have seen fall out fell out of good holes which means in these cases the plug was most likely at fault since it’s pretty hard to install them incorrectly.
I only use plugs that are made in the us.
If one runs high oil pressures like around 60 or more, it is safer to use screw in plugs but this does not mean that std press in plugs will fall out under the higher pressures.
This being said, imo, the fault of the plug falling out is that of the builder. I mention this in case you want to ask him if he might at least help you with some of your costs like gaskets etc..
Ford racing warrantees their engines for 2 years or 24,000 miles and a situation like this would be covered under that warranty.
In addition, just a reminder, the compression test I suggested might help determine the cause of your oil loss. You can buy a squirt can and after the “dry” test, squirt 3 – 4 squirts of straight 50 weight in it then check the compression again. If the compression goes up by more than around 5 lbs the rings are leaking. If they leak bad enough, the pressure will not go up because the oil will simply easily get blown past the rings by the compression.
A very good gauge and fairly consistent engine rpm is required to get the most accurate results. A "leak down" test is also a good way to determine the amount of compression being lost.
Also, if the opening of your pcv valve is not protected by a shield, it may be getting splashed by oil and therefore sucking it into the engine.
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Hello smkshw;
If you want more hp you can post your cylinder head type and the combustion chamber cc and the octane level of the fuel you want to run. Many people often put big cams in their engines without taking compression into consideration and therefore don’t get the optimum perf out of it.
If your pistons are more than around .0o6" below the surface of the block, and you need or want to increase your compression, it is best to use a thinner gasket to reduce your quench distance until it is around .030" - .035" then take the reat off the heads.
If you take lower the cylinder head by around .032" or more from stock/original, you might have intake fitment problems.
Your gear ratio is also important. In general, the “bigger” the cam, the numerically higher your rear gears need to be.
@barnett468 , your input is greatly appreciated, but I'm starting to see a developing pattern here. There's a difference between expressing/defending a differing position on a topic and dissecting each and every one of the oppositions post with condescending undertones, for the purpose of proving to everyone how smart you are. As intelligent as you claim to be, surely you realize the difference between the two? The bickering ends up driving the thread off track and becoming counter-productive. Agree to disagree and move on please.
I agree and this is EXACTLY what stykthyn is doing to me here.
First of all, I'm not trying to piss you off but you are now guilty of doing the exact same thing some others do. I NEVER, EVER, made ANY claim as to my level of intelligence. Imo, that would be a but extreme for anyone to do.
This comment was posted to counter one I made and it is posited as a fact which is not only wrong, imo, this comment is also unnecessarily abrasive
This is an unwarranted and unnecessary condescending/abrasive comment that is posited as a fact, not an opinion which is factually incorrect. it also does nothing to benefit the op.
This person has also made other inaccurate claims. Inaccurate claims posited as facts instead of opinions can confuse an op and should be corrected in the interest of accuracy imo.
I made no comment regarding their posts UNTIL they said I was wrong and imo implied I had no idea what I was talking about at which time I simply explained my posts to them.
Imo, it would seem for more helpful if they stated things as opinions instead of facts and not try to call others out on their suggestions/info when they are wrong.
I also have no problem being corrected if I am wrong providing it is done in a courteous manner.
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Barnett you're right. My only posts here are to cause outrage and spread inaccurate info. I will let you take over for me. I feel my work is done here.
@barnett468 Just so we're on the same page, I'm not talking to @stykthyn right now, I'm talking to you. And you're not so much pissing me off at this point, as you seem to be rubbing more than a few members here the wrong way with your needless tangents.
As appreciative as some may be for it, much of the tech advice you feel you may be contributing to this thread is almost immediately offset by your needing to beat your point into the ground, while talking down to your opposition the moment you feel you're being challenged? Your attempts to put a sophisticated spin on your responses have not gone unnoticed, but quite frankly they're comes off like you've got an underlying need to beat your chest and "flex" some sort of superiority complex for the masses?
This is about the 6th or 7th thread I've taken notice of your behaviour now and it's slowly creeping up on the 2nd or 3rd one I've seen needing to be prematurely close as a direct result of the circumstances noted above.
Not every thread needs to be turned into a blow by blow debate about pointless semantics, nor do they need to devolve into a pissing contest between yourself and whomever you choose to argue your case with that day!!!
I can't stress enough how you need to dial things back, or risk being benched for a few games! I hope I'm making myself clear?
Ya know... I've had LOTS of conversations in this forum. The ones that get into debate between two or more folks that are actually trying to solve a problem are called 'discussions'. Every so often we come across members that are far more interested in arguing their point than DEVELOPING a solution. These members don't generally last for very long.
I think Gearbanger hit the nail on the head. In this instance, we are not hosting a contest. 10 different people can read through a discussion thread and pick up something different each and every time. Sometimes a post in answer to a problem, is a 'spit ball' brought about by a thought had while reading through a thread. Those ideas may or may not answer the entire problem but often lead to an idea by someone else that hopefully gets down the road to a solution. This is how discussions work.
There are currently 3245 entire page lists of registered members. There are another 20 list pages of organic visitors. From a moderation standpoint, if one of those member accounts becomes particularly skilled at getting threads closed, at generating hostility, and even ticking off the staff, then what should be the action of the staff member(s) who are interested in the function of the ENTIRE forum as a whole?
If the occasional member can not find a way to operate in that environment because what they have to say is so much more important than the goal well... I for one won't tolerate the facebook mentality here. This is a forum of car guys and not a huge crowd of faceless people that scream at the top of their lungs to be heard.
It would then and therefore, be "intelligent" to just cut out the cancer and move on.
This will likely be the last time I make an attempt to spell this out. If it has to be revisited then I'll don my surgical gloves and scalpel to cure the ailment.
I think Gearbanger hit the nail on the head. In this instance, we are not hosting a contest. 10 different people can read through a discussion thread and pick up something different each and every time. Sometimes a post in answer to a problem, is a 'spit ball' brought about by a thought had while reading through a thread. Those ideas may or may not answer the entire problem but often lead to an idea by someone else that hopefully gets down the road to a solution. This is how discussions work.
There are currently 3245 entire page lists of registered members. There are another 20 list pages of organic visitors. From a moderation standpoint, if one of those member accounts becomes particularly skilled at getting threads closed, at generating hostility, and even ticking off the staff, then what should be the action of the staff member(s) who are interested in the function of the ENTIRE forum as a whole?
If the occasional member can not find a way to operate in that environment because what they have to say is so much more important than the goal well... I for one won't tolerate the facebook mentality here. This is a forum of car guys and not a huge crowd of faceless people that scream at the top of their lungs to be heard.
This will likely be the last time I make an attempt to spell this out. If it has to be revisited then I'll don my surgical gloves and scalpel to cure the ailment.
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