Lower Intake Gasket - Which Way???

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I AM the random post master...bow down
May 3, 2003
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Daytona Bch, FL
Yea... there is a big debate on the forums wether or not to only use RTV or to use the rubber/cork pieces supplied with the kit (which are probably there for a reason if I'm not mistaken.. not just to raise the price of the gasket)

To everyone who says use ONLY RTV along the block, have you even tried it with using the gaskets provided with the set or have you just listned to someone online about what's supposed to work?

My personal experience with just using RTV... IT LEAKED! And if I recall, just recently another member on here had the same problem. Now how could a nice thick bead of RTV leak oil when its squeezed between an intake and block? Intake was torqued down properly, it had time to dry, and you could see where it was squeezed out from under the intake all the way across it.

Now who has tried using the pieces supplied with the kit, installed it the proper way, and have had oil leak? Well I for one have not, and I've had my intake off for many diff reasons and each time when I put it back on it's oil leak free.

SOOOO.... who on here has tried both ways, or just listned to what someone has claimed to work. I've done both and I'm sticking to my method. There are a few others on here that feel the same way about the RTV thing as I do. But whatever way works for you, feel free to do it, I just hate when people say that using the gaskets provided is wrong and will leak, even the cork ones. I've used cork and the rubber ones, both with the same results. Anyone else?
 
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i would say that in my days i have done approx 200 intake manifold reseal/changes(alot from the chevy days) and i can say i have tried all ways possible.

most factory gasket kits don't come with the cork gaskets, gm even had a bulletin not to use gaskets on the lower intakes of the vortec v8's and the 60deg v6's.

my experiences are based on reducing comebacks. and i have found RTV to prevent comebacks, so this has carried over to my own cars. i don't use paper gaskets on anything including diff, w/p, t-cover, t-stat, etc.

if you look at the direction most oe gasket makers are going you will not find cork or paper. it is just not as pliable and does not with stand temp changes as well. just like rope, paper and cork are outdated.
 
I and my gear head buds as well have used those cork end gaskets for years with no probs.

I bet between us, we've put the top end on Ford small blocks of various types for what has to be over at least 50 different times with the following method.

Use 3M yellow weather stripping adhesive to glue the cork end gaskets to the block.

We've been doing it that way since we were kids with no probs and most of us now have got grandkids, lol.

btw ...... My current combo has been together with those gaskets for three years come this Christmas and all has been good.

Grady
 
I never said anything about manifold end seals. Either way, I did use RTV for these as well, and haven't had any leak problems. Sealed perfectly with straight RTV the first and only time.

For the thermostat housing, the paper gasket sucks. I struggled with "properly" installed paper gaskets several times before I started using straight RTV. I've never had a problem this way.
 
when I originally changed intakes years ago I just used a bead of silicone and let it film over for about 15min. It held for a while, but after I put the blower on and hadn't changed to a better sealing PCV valve yet it slightly got pushed out due to crankcase pressure and leaked a bit.

Since then I've used the blue rubber end seals that come with one of the kits. I put a little bit of gasket tack n seal on it and haven't had any problems at all.

Other thing to remember....even with the rubber or cork endseals you need to put a bead of rtv in the corners where the heads meet the end rails. Ford uses rubber end pieces OEM and in their service manual it tells to use the rtv in the corners.
 
Either way works. If doing it one way works great .... and doing it the other way works great .... how can one way be better than the other? But I agree .... I don't think people should try to steer others away from something that they "heard" won't work.
 
i made a thread about this a while back where i got a leak using just RTV....so today i went down to brothers performance and swore not to use the corks or the rubbers so I just picked up some RTV and lower gaskets for my edelbrock manifold......I did just like everyone said and used a ****LOAD of rtv on the ends and it worked this time....I have absolutly NO LEAKS at all and i even started up the car right after everything was bolted down.
 
The problem with the cork or rubber ends is if they are moved a tad while placing the intake on then most likely they will leak.

The way I do it is full proof. I bought four 12 inch long 1/2 in studs from Lowes. I screw them into the heads by hand. I drop the lower intake down through the studs. The lower intake can't move and can only go where it's suppose to be anyway. I use a hefty amount of RTV only. I've never had a leak.
 
I have used both methods, and both actually worked for me. I would make the suggestion of putting a bead around the ends of the gasket and allowing it to sit for 8-10 mins so that it doesnt smash out. I have used the RTV black silocone sealant and it worked great, but you just have to put enough on there and let it sit so that it doesn't squeeze out.

Sean
 
i use only RTV. but i use a THICK bead (straight from the bottle,about the thickness of the china wall) and i run it up to the coolant port ( a little thinner) then i put small beads around eash side of the intake gasket so thers no corners or gaps at all.