Suspension Lowering, Suggestions/advice?

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by stsmoker, May 7, 2013.

  1. Hey guys/girls. New to this forum here, hopefully I can get some assistance from yall. So I have a 2009 Mustang GT Premium 5-spd. Not much done to it so far (all done myself):

    K&N intake
    Muffler delete
    Billet grille w/hidden fogs - painted maroon (upper and lower)
    Smoked head lights/turn sigs
    HIDs (headlights/fogs) - 10k 55w headlights, 8k 35w fogs

    So I am getting the itch, and finally have the money to do so, to lower it. I havent done much research but I know the gist about what it all entails. I was looking at going with:
    BMR lower control arm relocation bracket
    BMR lower control arm
    Koni Shocks
    BMR lowering springs (1" front/1.25" rear)
    Camber bolts
    Ford Motorcraft upper strut mounts (Not sure why I need these though)
    BMR on-car adjustable w/polyurethane bushings panhard bar
    BMR front sway bar
    BMR rear sway bar
    BMR sway bar end links.

    If I'm going to do it, I want to do it right. Maybe not with all the top of the line parts but I want it to be worth my while (and functional). I don't take it to the track too much, just run it every now and then. Any input or ideas (i.e. better parts/cheaper/not needed parts...) would be much appreciated! One last thing, I will be installing all of this my self at a local auto hobby shop (Air Force operate). Not looking for anything crazy, want to do a solid lowering job, and do it right.

    Thanks in advance!
  2. Lowering springs are cheaper than coilovers, but coilovers give you better performance. Depending on how much you lower and how offcenter it gets you, you might need a camber/panhard bar. check out this handling pack from Eibach.
  3. Thanks for the info! I'll have to ask them about if this kit would cause any interference with a LCA relocation bracket. Would much rather have the lower stance that this setup provides.
  4. My suggestion to you is to NOT cheap out. Get the MM caster/camber plates, not just the camber bolts. Also bite the bullet and get the Koni yellow adjustable shocks and struts. It may be more expensive now but you save yourself from paying more in the long run. I have the Tokico HP struts and shocks and they were fine but I'm going to buy the Koni's in the near future.

    When you cheap out you just end up spending more money in the long run when you end up replacing the cheap parts with the ones you should have bought in the first place.
  5. Definitely don't want to cheap out. Im already saving myself a bunch of money by doing the install myself (along with an army of friends), so spending a little more doesnt bother me. What about UCA, do I 'need' them right now, or can I hold off on those for now. I will probably take your advice and go with the adjustable shocks (I'll have to read up more on them. never had adjustable shocks/struts lol). Been digging a little more, and Ive heard a lot of people talking about switching to those upper strut mounts. So I'll definitely be heeding that advice too!

    As far as lowering springs. I want it to be low enough to 'sit' on the tires. I don't want to tuck though, mainly because I plan on running a less offset wheel in the back w/285's and do not want them to rub if I hit a nasty bump. should I stick with the BMR ones or go a little lower with these ( )
  6. You might give Van at Revan Racing a call. He's the #1 guru for setting up GT500s and he has a whole Section for GTs also. Great guy excellent customer service, loads of first hand experience dialing this chassis in and making it handle. He sells BMR, and other brands, and knows what works.
  7. Personally I would go with the H&R race springs. That's what I'm switching to, (H&R race springs with Koni yellows). This is the combination that was recommended to me by Maximum Motorsports and I trust those guys completely.

    I think those super sport springs are too severe of a drop. I go with springs for performance and handling, not just the look.
  8. +1 for MM caster camber plates. I debated on camber bolts also and after reading a bunch of forums decided to save myself the trouble of alignment issues and spent the extra money. I also went with the Tokico D-spec adjustables and while I'm satisfied with them I would have went with the Koni Yellows had they been available at the time I did my suspension. I went with the steeda adjustable upper and lower control arms. I will tell is a night and day difference with the control arms.
  9. Looks like I'll def be going with the H&R race springs. I would definitely rather have my car lowered for practical reason rather than for a pure cosmetic look. I'll also be getting the camber plates (heard nothing but good reviews, seems like it'll save me a huge headache). My only question is for the adjustable struts/shocks. Is there a significant ride quality change/performance gain. I've never messed with adjustable shocks and stuff before. Basically, once I find a good ride setup, I feel like I would never adjust the shocks again. I could also be wrong too though lol. Is it worth my while to still get the adjustable shocks/struts even if I don't race much?

    Thanks again everyone for helping me out!
  10. Those would be worse IMO. Get the MM plates. The J&M's only adjust camber and not caster...that's the advantage of the MM that adjust both. As for you question about adjustable shocks/struts...You are right that you will probably set it somewhere and never mess with it but it is nice to be able to adjust it if you want to track your car or maybe you are taking a long road trip and don't want a really stiff ride.
  11. Very true! Never thought about it like that. How hard are they to adjust..any idea? Forgot all about you being able to adjust the caster too with the MM plates. My total bill is ticking up there. I don't mind at all though, might as well do it right the first time huh? Getting more and more anxious everyday!
  12. I've never adjusted my Tokico's so I can't say how hard it is to do. It's a very stiff ride but now that I'm used to it I like it. It always does tick up with modding. My advice to you is research forums and ask questions before you buy anything so you do it right the first time. It might seem cheaper at first to buy x part until you find out it's a POS. I originally was only going to do suspension...headers back and stop there for a bit. However, once you get the itch it doesn't stop and I have a Whipple going on this weekend and I'm already looking at forged internals after that.
  13. Dude it couldn't be any simpler. You literally just turn a knob. Clockwise makes it softer, counter-clockwise makes it stiffer, (that's what she said :rlaugh:). Sorry couldn't resist.
  14. Why don't you do yourself a favor and give the guys at Maximum Motorsports a call? They'll spend all day on the phone with you if you want and they won't try to sell you a bunch of crap you don't need. Tell them what you plan on doing with the car and they'll steer you in the right direction. Ask for Michael but any of them can help you.

    Also don't forget that going to race pieces in your suspension always adds NVH. The MM caster/camber plates replace the stock spring bushings with a spherical bushing that adds a little more road noise. The more parts like that you add, the louder your car's going to get on the inside. If you do too much it makes driving the car a pain, (unless you plan on turning your car into a dedicated race car).