MAD EASY!!!! homemade mil eliminators

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by krly79, Dec 10, 2003.

  1. mil eliminators diagram

    It cost me like $3 or something. Only done on the back two O2's. I didn't use the little board that it lists, but either way it's up to you. I just used the caps and resistors. Enjoy!

    Attached Files:

  2. why did you not post this about a month ago when I needed them,,
    very cool,, I am saving the pic
  3. I recently moved, so everything was in boxes. I just see alot people come here looking for advice and opinions. These things are about $60 bucks or so for something so trivial. That is a good bit of money that could be put into a more usefull and worthwhile mod and besides, it's cheaper!
  4. Interesting... but I'm not sure I'm following...

    Where do the PC boards come into play??
  5. thanks man! :nice:
  6. you can buy pc boards and break them into small square peices and put the resistor and cap on it. It has holes in it that you can put the leads through and solder them on the back. It's not a big deal if you don't use them. I didn't because I just thought it was pain. A little easier without them. you can just strip the wire and tape or solder them together. I just used the resistors and caps.
  7. cool wish my printer worked. My friend needs this !
    Oh well I'll print it from work tomorrow. Thanks for posting it up - :nice:
  8. One other thing to mention is the heat that is produced down there. It WILL melt the solder if it gets hot enough. I had to solder my o2's a while back and ended up buying new ones.
  9. anyone use this home-made MIL eliminator successfully long term?
  10. Thanks for the info on this..gonna have to try it on a buddies car that was looking into buying those $60 MIL eliminators. :nice: As far as the heat issue is concerned, would some form of exhaust tape/wrap help keep the solder from melting..I would imagine it would help a little bit anyways?
  11. I didn't use any solder and I've been running mine going on a year with no problems yet. I've driven in everything between 98 degrees with 100% humidity to about 15 degrees with no humidity, both for long periods of time with absolutely no problems.
  12. I did the same thing, just soldered the whole thing together and wrapped it in heat shrink. I've had it on for almost 2 years now with no problems.

    I lost the picture though, thanks for posting it.
  13. haha these seem to work more often than the ones that people are buying for 60
  14. Thats what I did, Sodered then together so the connection wa strong, then wrapped them in the Black Tubing that you can get at the automotive store and I had my car for 1 1/2 years no problem... It will last a long time if you do it right :nice:
  15. Nice and rotated for everyone.

  16. Thanks for the post milenko. You will save my brother some money.
  17. if it's easy, why would it be mad?
  18. 2 years/30k miles with home-mades. No problems...
  19. I knew it was a simple process but didn't have the correct values needed for the resisters. Now there is nothing stopping me. Thanks.