Ok guys, I sat down the other night and me and my buddy wrote down, step by step, what we have done to the car as far as testing, deaignostics, and other "junk" to basically update everybody, b/c this thread is getting long enough now that its hard to keep track. I am gonna edit my Original Post to include this list too for any new visitors that wanna help to figure out this never-ending problem.
WARNING:: This is a LONG Post!!!
Round1
Installed used V8 front disk/rear drum brakes from 1987 GT
Installed new hard and soft lines
Installed used manual pedals
Kept 4 cylinder master proportioning valve and booster
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 2
Changed master cylinder to remanufactured 4 cylinder unit
Bench bled master cylinder using tube into reservoir method
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 3
Changed master cylinder to new V8 unit
Bench bled master cylinder using tube into reservoir method
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 4
Pull master cylinder
Gravity bleed master cylinder
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 5
Vacuum tested booster, failed test.
Changed booster to remanufactured V8 booster
Still NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 6
Transported to friends shop
Check for leaks at all lines, rear wheel cylinders, front calipers
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 7
Remove proportioning valve
Tear down and clean
Re-install proportioning valve and cross threaded right front line fitting
Obtain replacement used proportioning valve
Tear down and clean
Re-install proportioning valve
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 8
Removed master cylinder, removed brake booster pushrod, lengthened to 6 3/8” to match a factory pushrod obtained at the salvage yard
Only change to pedal was increased step between front and rear circuits
Check adjustment of rear brakes
Change master cylinder to another new AP manufactured V8 unit
Bench bled master cylinder using tube into reservoir method
Install on vehicle
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LR, RF, LF method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Bleed all lines at the junction, working from the furthest point forward up to the proportioning valve
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LF, LR, RF Ford service manual method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 9
Removed master cylinder
Bench bled master cylinder using "capped ports" method recommended by Maximum Motorsports Tech line
Piston will not move all in bore of master cylinder indicating no air
Re-installed on vehicle
Bleed system manually at each corner RR, LF, LR, RF Ford service manual method, NO pedal AT ALL!
Round 10
Change master cylinder to new O'Reilly's unit
Installed as is with no bench bleeding
Pressure bleed system
FIRST SIGNS OF PEDAL
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 11
Continue to pressure bleed, run through 2 quarts of new fluid
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 12
With the pressure bleeder installed and operating, pedal holds pressure and feels fine
This led us to believe that there was still air in the system
Continue to pressure bleed
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 13
Decided to obtain a used booster and master cylinder from a U-Pull-It yard
Found a 4 cylinder one, tried it in the car at the salvage yard and it had pedal
Install used booster and master
Pressure bleed system
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 14
Remove master cylinder from booster, but kept lines installed, lifted above firewall to bring it above the rear and right front wheel lines on firewall
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 15
Started blocking off circuits on the vehicle to eliminate the possibility of trapped air
Starting at the rear junction on the firewall
Pedal is the same
Clamp off right front circuit at soft line to caliper with a line clamp
First stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Second and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and starts over again
Clamp off left front and right front at soft line to caliper with a line clamp
First stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Second and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and starts over again
Round 16
Block off right front circuit at prop valve
First stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Second and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and starts over again
Round 17
Block off left front at master cylinder (comes directly from master cylinder)
Dead heads master cylinder and will not allow the pedal to be depressed at all
Round 18
Removed right front brake line at prop valve
Inserted prop valve end of line into bottle of brake fluid and vacuum bled line at caliper
Round 18
Decided to try new front calipers even though we didn't see any leaks around the piston seals and bleeder, line, etc.
Installed remanufactured calipers
Pressure bled system
First stroke goes completely to floor
Second stroke is off of floor 1/4 throw
Third and every stroke after words is 1/2 throw
Let it sit for a minute and first stroke goes to the floor again, etc.
Round 19
Doused car in fuel
Lit match
Couldn't muster up the nuts to watch it burn just yet
How's THAT for an update?
--Ryan
