Magnapack install advice

blkgt714

New Member
May 3, 2003
142
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LA/Orange County
Got the passenger side on, my question is that the pipe almost literallly touches the gas tank. I've tried adjusting the pipes but with those rubber hangers I have so much play that I know it'll end up tapping or touching the tank. Any ideas?
 
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blkgt714:

Leave everything loose. You need to rotate each piece (clockwise/counter-clockwise as viewed from the outlet) until you get at least 1/2" of clearance on the corner of the tank. You may need to get the car back up off the ground if one of the pipes knocks on the sway bar. It takes a little trial-and-error fitting and refitting but the pipe will clear nicely.

Lastly, check all the joints again after 100 miles or so because the heating/cooling cycles may loosen one or two clamps.
 
nyuk98gt said:
blkgt714:

Leave everything loose. You need to rotate each piece (clockwise/counter-clockwise as viewed from the outlet) until you get at least 1/2" of clearance on the corner of the tank. You may need to get the car back up off the ground if one of the pipes knocks on the sway bar. It takes a little trial-and-error fitting and refitting but the pipe will clear nicely.

Lastly, check all the joints again after 100 miles or so because the heating/cooling cycles may loosen one or two clamps.

this is a long way off topic but I noticed in your sig you have an auto with a speed cal to calibrate your speedo and the 3.73 gears. I thought the speedcals only workked with sticks. If this is true then I will be getting one of these for my 04 GT. Do they actually have one for autos and where and how much ?
 
nyuk98gt said:
blkgt714:

Leave everything loose. You need to rotate each piece (clockwise/counter-clockwise as viewed from the outlet) until you get at least 1/2" of clearance on the corner of the tank. You may need to get the car back up off the ground if one of the pipes knocks on the sway bar. It takes a little trial-and-error fitting and refitting but the pipe will clear nicely.

Lastly, check all the joints again after 100 miles or so because the heating/cooling cycles may loosen one or two clamps.

Well got some of the clearance problems fixed. However, I tightened one of the camps down so hard that it took some thread off the bolts! I plan to get them welded soon anyways.
 
CottonBurnerz said:
glad to hear you got it fixed.. i had the problem with mine also.. but it passenger side was hitting the frame above the wheel but I easily fixed that.

BTW, how do you like the pack? :nice:

They're awesome.. Nice tone and not obnoxious when I want to just cruise around. But when I get on it, wow.. I did set off a couple car alarms in a parking structure last night before I went to see Lord of the Rings.. The security guard said nice exhaust as I drove by. :D
 
COLFLAG:

The SpeedCal ONLY works with the pre-99 automatics (and any/all model year 5-speeds). For the '99 and later automatics the speedo/odo can only be corrected with a chip or reflash of the PCM. This is not a disaster because you want to change the shift points anyway. The Hypertech, Predator, and Superchips handheld programmers can do this for you or you can get tuning software from SCT (Superchips Custom Tuning). If you don't correct for [higher numeric] gears, then the speedo/odo will be recording too many miles/higher speed than actual and the shifts will be very early -- neither is desirable.

(Sorry for the tardy reply).

Chris
 
blkgt714:

I should have mentioned to use anti-seize on the clamp u-bolt threads. Stainless will gall if you don't use anti-seize.

If you really want to go whole hog, you can use a steel clamp first to crimp things AFTER everything is in the final position and then put the stainless clamps on.

Of course, if you get everthing welded up, then clamps will not be an issue.

Enjoy the new exhaust.

Chris