major blower heat soak! cant seem to figure it out?

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by ADRENLN, Jul 19, 2008.

  1. It seems like hes making up excueses since he doesn't know what the hell is going on.

    I would almost bet you it has to do with something in the tune.

    He also should hook a laptop up to it and data log everything while you drive it like you normally do to see if something is screwed up.
  2. Step #1 would be to get the car back and look at the MAF. Unplug it and make sure you have 6 prongs on the MAF plug/harness. The plug on the car side WILL have 6 wires, make sure the MAF has 6 connectors. I wouldnt buy anything untill you are 100% sure. I haven't found one piece of info online to verify anything..

    The splitter bumper might not be optimal, but it shouldnt hinder performance enough to cause those problems. I think your mechanic is just guessing now.

    But check that MAF out and let me know for sure..
  3. man, i think your right! i mean, come on...the steeda splitter is really reaching i think. i guess its possible and i guess it could just give him enough air movement without it that the car works, but that should not be the issue.

    i think im gonna call steeda and see what they have to say about this. i know they have built the q400 and other cars with the same splitter that i have, so i think i know what they are going to say. however, the rwhp on mine is a bit higher then their model i guess causing higher underhood temps cause im spinning the blower harder. i still think that is far fetched but we will see.

    even if he gets it to run better, i think i will still take it to another tuner but maybe i will be able to drive it to them...we will see.
  4. ok, i will give a check on the maf, but i di ask him how many plugs were in it and he said 6 so i dont think he could mistake that.

    heres a small update. i wouldnt think that the splitter would hinder performance that much either but he says that he put the black plactic piece back on and wired up the bottom of the splitter. there is a bottom piece of it that you cant see that extends back and kind of blocks the air i guess a bit.

    he said so far hes driving the car around and letting it idel and it is better. he said things under the hood were cooler too. he wants to drive it around some more to see what it does. i will keep you guys updated.

    thanks to everyone that posted in this thread for trying to shed light on the matter and give their ideas. it is really appreciated.:nice:
  5. hey check out the first page where i posted the pics. you can see all 6 wires going into the maf connection. so i guess thats ok.
  6. The stock maf harness has 6 wires, that's not the question. The question is if the maf itself has 6 prongs inside (4 for maf signals, two for integrated IAT).
  7. ok, well, i have to go unplug it for that one lol. i will let you guys know.
  8. Man this is crazy.

    I dont think its the splitter or the black plastic piece....all thats for is to cool the power steering lines. I drug mine off my old GT the first day I got the car LOL. Remember I put that car through heck with a HUGE IC blocking both upper and lower radiator and never had overheating issues. Hottest the car got was 212 once when setting in a parking lot in 100* weather with the A/C on....took about 15 mins of idling after my drive to get food, before it got that hot. I just shut it off at that point.

    IAT1 would get in the 140-150* yea all the pipes under the hood would get to the 150* range if I just set there and let it idle. Same with the cobra....I get IAT1 of 140+ sometimes if I just set there and idle. Everything under the hood is HOT....even the prop rod.
    After a drive, you cant touch the blower....especially after a pass at the track. Talk about HOT.

    So yes things WILL get hot, however your car shouldnt be missing and not having any power. Do you have anyway to datalog anything? Laptop? X cal? All you need is an X2 (or X3) and a lap top with livelink installed. Get some logs and see whats going on.

    A REALLY good investment would be to buy this Aeroforce Ford FD Series SINGLE Interceptor Scan Gauge [AF-FDx01] - $239.00

    I had it on my GT and LOVED it. Its one of the first things I bought for the cobra....couldnt live without it and I HIGHLY recommend it. It tells you just about everything thats going on. When you start having problems, just switch around and see what your coolant temp is, IAT temp, ignition timing, 02 sensor voltage (shows if your lean or rich on either bank). I also wired in my wideband to this gauge (has 2 inputs for wideband/EGT/MAP sensors/oil pressure, ect) so that its always right there and I know my exact A/F.
  9. That what I was trying to get at.. The harness going to the MAF from the car has 6 wires, put you need to unplug that harness and look at the actual MAF to see if it has 6 prongs, or 4.

    I dont think the splitter is the problem. What your mechanic is doing to increase air flow might be helping your situation, but it isnt whats causing it.
  10. Whats the latest? I am anxious to get this car running right! :)
  11. thanks guys for all the help guys. well, the latest is mechanic thinks its nothing he did wrong. he is convinced that everything is put together right, everything is working correctly, his tune is fine, and it is just underhood heat that is not escaping the engine bay!!! he thinks this car does not act up when the hood is lifted letting the heat escape. he thinks cause i have an aftermarket hood the seal is better then stock and it is trapping the heat even thought it is a heat extracting hood.

    he wants to have an additional hole cut in the cowl by a bosy shop guy thinking that it will let more heat out.

    i think that this is just a bandaid for whatever the problem is. seems strange to me. i think i still have to have someone else look at it.

    however, if this keeps the temp down somewhat, maybe i can drive it to the next guy instead of towing it. looks like i dont stand a chance at a refund...he trying real hard not to let that happen.
  12. If its not running right, and he cant fix it you should atleast get some cash back.

    The after market hood and the splitter bumper is all BS. DONT let them cut a hole in your hood. There are people with way more horse power running aftermarket hoods with no problem.

    You might post this over at MODULARFORDS.COM. They have a couple tuner sponsors that know their stuff... one of them is even a PMAS dealer, and if the problem is your MAF he might be able to give you a good deal on it. I wish I could look at the car in person, there are only so many hardware related issues it could be if its not the tune...
  13. yea, i know what you are saying. everything i bought was bought new which should lessen the probability that any of it is bad. we already had the blower seal go! now was that just a bad seal or did the excesive heat cause it to go? i dont know.

    i know that it should be able to be done without cutting the hood or messing with the splitter, but i guess thats the only thing he has left to get it running better so he dont have to give me a partial refund.

    i dont even think its going to run right even if they do that stuff. thats just my guess.
  14. I am not sure what part of Jersey you live, but you could try Johnny Lightning Performance in Lancaster, PA. He is a great guy to talk to and he really knows what he is doing. I think that his work speaks for his self.
  15. man what a bunch of bs. If hes says its your aftermarket hood hes full of it. Why dont u just take off your hood for a day to prove it to him that these weird symptoms will persist? Thats what i would do. Hes just giving you the run around. Time to get at least some of your money back and go elsewhere.
  16. My brother had this same exact problem on a car at his shop and it turned out to be something not compatiable or programmed correctly to run with the blowthrough system. Once he had it corrected the car ran great. I will talk to him and find out more details. I know he got a few gray hairs from this problem until he finally solved it, so don't be too quick to blame the mechanic because he doesn't always have control of things that other people program.
  17. This is total BS, hes doing the same crap PHP was doing with me. He was trying to blame my car not having TC/ABS as why my car was running weird. You know waht I took it to a different tuner and in 2 days the car was done and I ran a 10.85 with it. When PHP had it, it ran a best of 12.86 @ 109.

    I would do what others have said and remve the hood OR let him cut the hood and when it doesn't work make him buy you a new one.
  18. Are you guys telling him to hook the iac hose to the powerpipe? That would cause unmetered air to enter the engine since the maf is after the powerpipe.

  19. thanks again guys. yea, i know its all bs and im def going to a different shop to check it out after he is done. im not trying to blame the guy right away, i know things happen.

    however, hes been tryint to figure it out for a month and a half....same problem.
    97speedster, if you talk to your brother let me know what it was and ill check it out.

    actually, mechanic said he removed some kind of seal from the back of the hood to let the air out. so im goin up there in an hr. to drive the car all over the place and see if it acts the same. i will let you guys know how it turns out. even if it works i dont know what to think.

    i would still feel like it is getting too hot and hes just increasing air flow to the engine so that the heat escapes and it seems to run cooler. i would think something is still wrong cause this all still seems too weird that my hood and splitter is causing this...but who knows.

    ill let you guys know.:nice: