major blower heat soak! cant seem to figure it out?

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by ADRENLN, Jul 19, 2008.

  1. Ah, yeah forgot he's blow through! You're right. If this was a draw through with a recirculating bypass then you would want it setup like pictured, but otherwise disregard my comment.
  2. Ok so I talked to my brother and he said that they had a calibration issue with the MAF that it was not set to work with a blowthrough system. What they did was changed it from a blowthrough to a drawthrough which stoppped it from running rich and it actually made it run just a hair lean but overall solved the problem.
  3. I hope you found a solution, and get it solved. One other option is to replace the intake manifold with an air/water intercooler and ad some more cooling capacity. (Like on the positive displacement blowers) Every 10 degrees of cooling is worth 5-10 HP depending on who you ask.
  4. :nice:ok, just got back from the car and driving it around.

    car ran fine while driving it.

    once the car stopped and was idleing it started to act up again. we just shut it down. popped the hood and cooled the car down we removed the hood.

    once removed i drove it again boosting hard.

    parked it up at the shop and let it idel. if seemed fine.

    then i turned it off. i felt the meter and the inlet pipe ams plenum under the hood and things were not too hot.

    let it sit 15 min. went to touch the same stuff and it was all real hot. touched the bottom of the valve covers where the bolts are and it was burning hot!!!!!! they say the ALUMINUM block is disapating all this heat and the hood dont let it out and the meter and everything is becomming heat soaked.

    so this time without the hood on i started it up. it seemed to idel fine.

    i cant believe it. im still not sure if this is the actual problem or if just letting all the heat out is helping whatever is wrong. either way it seemed fine with no hood.

    i cant have a car with no hood though. im going to leave it off for now and drive it a bit to make sure this helps.

    so they say i have to find a one piece cowl hood with the whole back open to get more heat out then the steeda hood. i just have to make sure that is the problem first.

    i have an appointment with a different shop on the 5th. ill see what they think then i will decide if i want them to change things or if i should find a new hood. :shrug:

    i just think if i get the new hood it is still not as open as having no hood so it might not help. i dont know.

    do you guys know if the vis cowl has the full back open?

    thanks for all the idea guys. ill keep you updated. any new info appreciated.
  5. Hey man real quick question. Doe this issue only occur when at stop lights or traffic and if you shut off the engine, wait a while, then turn it back on? Are the temps increased after you turn it back on?
  6. thats exactly what it is mogs! its is when i turn it off and leave it off for 20 min. after driving, then turn it back on.

    and i found out today its NOT the hood trapping heat. the hood is off the car now. i drove it home. once parked and turned off i immedately felt all the piping. i could hold my hand on the boost pipe, inlet tube and intake plenum.....all just warm.

    i then let the car sit in the driveway without the hood for 20 min. then i went to feel all the same piping and it was burning hot. i couldnt even touch it. i couldnt believe it!!!!!!!

    there is no hood holding in the heat!

    i turnd the car on and let it idle for an min. what do you know, the idle started to drop like always and the car started to run poorley again. i quickly pulled it into the garage and parked.

    i went out 5 min later and the pipes were cool. i dont get what the hell is going on.?????????????????:mad: i dont know if there is a problem witht the built aluminum engine or what. none of this makes sense to me. im calling mph now to see what tim thinks.
  7. Let us know what Tim says.

    If you have the car, can you take pictures of the MAF connections.. I really want to see the MAF side of the plug to see if it only has 4 connectors... This has me really curious becuase there web site only shows 4 connectors..
  8. Once the temperature increases, will it decrease if you drive it down the road and get some air flow through the engine? Onces Im sitting and then I take off the down road, the temps go back down. Or is your temp staying high even after you are driving it?

    I also have an aluminum block(Teksid)
  9. honestly, i havent tried to drive it again after the idle goes crazy and it starts to smell rich. i dont want to hurt the car.

    maog do you think its the heat fron the aluminum block?

    there are lots of fi cars that use the aluminum block, you and i shouldnt have this problem.

    so you saying if you drive to go out to dinner or something, then you go to eat and let the car sit, it will heat up. once you come back out it will be scolding hot and the idel goes funny until you drive it and the temps go down?
  10. btw, i checked the maf connections, it does have 6 plugs. i guess that is ok
  11. Not really. If I drive my car, the temps stay normal. Unless I get stuck in traffic or sit at a light for a while. Once I reach the location, if I let it sit for a while the temps will go to nothing like a normal car but if I come right back out to my car after like 5 minutes or less, the temp needle is up to the middle of the gauge and I get the rough idle. If I drive my car for a while, the temps come back down.

    Im thinking its my low speed fans not pulling enough air through the radiator. This issue is part of the tune. You should check with your tuner on when the fans are kicking on.

    Im running the 03-04 Cobra Rad and I have Water Wetter in it. I also run a mixture of more water than anti-freeze.
  12. The aluminum will dissapate heat faster, that is true.

    But an iron block will hold the heat in longer, and with that extra time it would be able to heat soak just as much.
  13. ok, i just got done testing what you said mogs. i took it out drove it around got the engine to full operating temp. my engine temp gauge is always in the middle once the car heats up! is that weird. alway as long as i have owned the car. anyway, i let it sit for 15 min. felt the pipes, burning hot. started it up and didnt give it a chance to idle funny. i just took it for a drive. tried not to let it sit at the stop lights too long and tried to keep it moving air.

    got home and things were cooler. they were still hot just not as hot. the maf was pretty hot though.
  14. mine can sit for 20 min. that is when it seems to be the hottest and has trouble when i turn it back on.
  15. What cooling "mods" have you done? What thermostat are you running? I know the hood shouldnt matter but which company made yours?
  16. 180 thermo i think and i have the steeda hood.
  17. Im running a 160 but I do not drive my car during the winter.
  18. i dont drinve during the winter either, but i do usually start the car up during the winter and let it get up to temp twice a week while it is stored. :shrug:

    dont know what the heck to do this winter yet. also arent you suppose to let a blower get up in temp before you drive the car also? if thats the case, mine just starts to idel weird. i wont be able to do it.

    i still think something can be done here, something is still not right. others run the aluminum blocks with no problems.

    do you run blow or draw through?
  19. Technically speaking, you are suppose to let any engine warm up before driving.
  20. mogs are you draw through for your maf?