I decided since it was 85 degrees outside today, I might as well put these in to see if they are worth the money. They went in fairly easy with the exception of a few things. MM says to jack car up and put the rear axle on jackstands, I used a lift and would recommend the same, especially if your arms have never been out, because of seized nutz and boltz. I replaced mine last year and the bolts came out easily.
Here's what I started with.
Last year I took the stock control arms, boxed them with 1/4 inch thick steel, and used Energy Suspension Poly bushing at both ends. It made the car handle and hook better, but I wanted more.
After I got the lower bolt out, I realized I had to take the muffler out to get to the bolt holding the arm in at the chassis, time consuming, but not a PITA. Much more of a bitch if I did not have dumps.
Here's a pic of how worn out my rear spring isolators were from Auto-Xing, so I replaced them with a kit I bought from MM. It's poly, made by Prothane I think.
As you can see, the MM part is a much stouter piece. It also uses a 3 piece bushing at the chassis and a spherical busing at the axle to pivot.
Here's the finished result.
And another...
The only part that sucked was that since I did not have the axle on jackstands, the control arm would not line up with the axle part. It was more than an inch off! So I had to put a tranny jack underneath the diff, and lower the lift onto that to compress the suspension. The passenger side went in no problem. The driver side, would not line up. So I called upon my dad, and he brought over a huge prybar and we pushed the axle to line up with the arm. Took 5 minutes...and I swear I messed around by myslef trying to line it up for a good 45 minutes....blah. I was also able to remove the quad shocks.
Results....
If I was into drag racing, I would nut myself. My car launches much better, and seems to bite harder. Also, around corners, the back seems completely different. This is by far one of the best suspension mods I have done. It took awhile to do...nothing difficult, but well worth it. Oh well, that's it. Then End.
Here's what I started with.
Last year I took the stock control arms, boxed them with 1/4 inch thick steel, and used Energy Suspension Poly bushing at both ends. It made the car handle and hook better, but I wanted more.
After I got the lower bolt out, I realized I had to take the muffler out to get to the bolt holding the arm in at the chassis, time consuming, but not a PITA. Much more of a bitch if I did not have dumps.
Here's a pic of how worn out my rear spring isolators were from Auto-Xing, so I replaced them with a kit I bought from MM. It's poly, made by Prothane I think.
As you can see, the MM part is a much stouter piece. It also uses a 3 piece bushing at the chassis and a spherical busing at the axle to pivot.
Here's the finished result.
And another...
The only part that sucked was that since I did not have the axle on jackstands, the control arm would not line up with the axle part. It was more than an inch off! So I had to put a tranny jack underneath the diff, and lower the lift onto that to compress the suspension. The passenger side went in no problem. The driver side, would not line up. So I called upon my dad, and he brought over a huge prybar and we pushed the axle to line up with the arm. Took 5 minutes...and I swear I messed around by myslef trying to line it up for a good 45 minutes....blah. I was also able to remove the quad shocks.
Results....
If I was into drag racing, I would nut myself. My car launches much better, and seems to bite harder. Also, around corners, the back seems completely different. This is by far one of the best suspension mods I have done. It took awhile to do...nothing difficult, but well worth it. Oh well, that's it. Then End.