I installed this McLeod adjustable slave/brg combo on Wednesday. My Centerforce dual friction clutch didn't hold up to the Whipple so I switched to the Centerforce DFX disc which really bites down hard.
You'll see in the pics that a hole must be cut out of the bell housing at a lower point than the existing hole for the stock steel tube. It is very important that you cut the hole in the right spot for several reasons. You don't want it too far towards the pressure plate or too high that you can't reach in there to adjust the new slave. You'll also see that on the inside of the bell housing there's some ribbing that's part of the original Tremec mold. The ribbing is there for durability while the engine is torquing under load. I cut the hole in between two ribs which resulted in my hand not fitting inside the hole completely, but I can still adjust the thing with the aid of a screwdriver which I just use to help push and rotate the slave for adjustment purposes.
The 2 hoses must be stuffed back in the bell housing before you attempt to spin the slave because they need to rotate with it. I suggest you tape them together when rotating the slave to keep them from getting caught behind the pressure plate. Tape the ends together. They'll just slap around in the bell housing as you rotate the unit. Once you've made your required adjustment you just pull the hoses back out through the bell and tie them off securely. I used 2 wire ties on each hose.
McLeod's instructions really suck, but Justin Burcham gave me a good run down on how to install and adjust this thing which really is quite simple. You are supposed to get a measurement from the pressure plate diaphram to the engine block where the tranny mounts by using a straight edge and a tape or ruler. Write that distance down. Install the slave/brg and get a measurement from the end of the bell housing (where the engine mates) to the throwout brg. Then adjust the slave so it's .150 (a little more than 1/8'') away from the pressure plate diaphram once the tranny is bolted up. I spent a good 20 minutes coming up with an accurate measurement.
As far as what to use to cut the hole in the bell....I used a hole saw to cut 3 holes right next to each other then a die grinder to clean up and square off the hole into one large rectangle hole. Don't forget to grind off any sharp edges that might damage the hoses over time. You could also just draw your hole with a marker then drill a bunch of small holes very close to each other then punch out the center and clean it all up with a die grinder. Just pay close attention to where you open the hole up in the bell. I have enough pics to pretty much show the right spot. Keep the new slave/brg away from the aluminum grindings and dust created from making the hole. You don't want that crap in there. Also, rap a rag around the input shaft with some tape to keep the metal dust off of the splines, otherwise just blow it out with compressed air.
My thoughts on the Centerforce DFX clutch....it's the way to go with a blower or turbo. Justin Burcham recommended it and we all know Justin knows what's good. He was right, it's a fine clutch. It has minimal on/off feel unlike the Spec stage 3 and I have experienced zero chatter. It's just a little more crude than stock with heavier, but not too heavy pedal effort. It grabs like a truck clutch which is what we want.
Justin Burcham (JPC Racing) stocks these McLeod units along with the Centerforce DFX clutch packages. I've been buying most of my crap from him for over 3 years now.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC2.jpg?t=1210647691
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC3.jpg?t=1210647752
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC5.jpg?t=1210647782
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC4.jpg?t=1210647814
You'll see in the pics that a hole must be cut out of the bell housing at a lower point than the existing hole for the stock steel tube. It is very important that you cut the hole in the right spot for several reasons. You don't want it too far towards the pressure plate or too high that you can't reach in there to adjust the new slave. You'll also see that on the inside of the bell housing there's some ribbing that's part of the original Tremec mold. The ribbing is there for durability while the engine is torquing under load. I cut the hole in between two ribs which resulted in my hand not fitting inside the hole completely, but I can still adjust the thing with the aid of a screwdriver which I just use to help push and rotate the slave for adjustment purposes.
The 2 hoses must be stuffed back in the bell housing before you attempt to spin the slave because they need to rotate with it. I suggest you tape them together when rotating the slave to keep them from getting caught behind the pressure plate. Tape the ends together. They'll just slap around in the bell housing as you rotate the unit. Once you've made your required adjustment you just pull the hoses back out through the bell and tie them off securely. I used 2 wire ties on each hose.
McLeod's instructions really suck, but Justin Burcham gave me a good run down on how to install and adjust this thing which really is quite simple. You are supposed to get a measurement from the pressure plate diaphram to the engine block where the tranny mounts by using a straight edge and a tape or ruler. Write that distance down. Install the slave/brg and get a measurement from the end of the bell housing (where the engine mates) to the throwout brg. Then adjust the slave so it's .150 (a little more than 1/8'') away from the pressure plate diaphram once the tranny is bolted up. I spent a good 20 minutes coming up with an accurate measurement.
As far as what to use to cut the hole in the bell....I used a hole saw to cut 3 holes right next to each other then a die grinder to clean up and square off the hole into one large rectangle hole. Don't forget to grind off any sharp edges that might damage the hoses over time. You could also just draw your hole with a marker then drill a bunch of small holes very close to each other then punch out the center and clean it all up with a die grinder. Just pay close attention to where you open the hole up in the bell. I have enough pics to pretty much show the right spot. Keep the new slave/brg away from the aluminum grindings and dust created from making the hole. You don't want that crap in there. Also, rap a rag around the input shaft with some tape to keep the metal dust off of the splines, otherwise just blow it out with compressed air.
My thoughts on the Centerforce DFX clutch....it's the way to go with a blower or turbo. Justin Burcham recommended it and we all know Justin knows what's good. He was right, it's a fine clutch. It has minimal on/off feel unlike the Spec stage 3 and I have experienced zero chatter. It's just a little more crude than stock with heavier, but not too heavy pedal effort. It grabs like a truck clutch which is what we want.
Justin Burcham (JPC Racing) stocks these McLeod units along with the Centerforce DFX clutch packages. I've been buying most of my crap from him for over 3 years now.
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC2.jpg?t=1210647691
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC3.jpg?t=1210647752
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC5.jpg?t=1210647782
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/anthony05gt/NC4.jpg?t=1210647814
Just messing with ya man.
