I have a 67 mustang with a 351w and a g-force t-5. I just got done installing the wilwood master cylinder and bleeding the system. During bleeding, the clutch pedal moved freely and easily. Now once I closed the bleeder screw I cannot depress the pedal. It is too stiff to. I dont know what the problem could be. I have the rod for the master cylinder 1" lower than the stock mount for the clutch pedal. Any ideas?
mcleod hydraulic T.O. bearing
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I had the exact issue with my 408/T5 Spec clutch, willwood 3/4" master and Ram bearing. Had trans in and out 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Initially i had the ram too far from the clutch and was overextending ram and pushing on the stop ring at end of the bearing. Then it broke off and had to start over again. After i got the distance worked out, it got much better. Also, in the beginning, after many attempts, i noticed that the master push rod was rubbing on the side of the master...i had the master mounted sligthly off parallel to the rod travel. After fixing this and the distance from the clutch, it has worked great. I too have the rod mounted about 1" below OEM spot. Make sure rod is not rubbing. What size is your master? I tried a smaller bore which made it much stiffer.
Mike
I followed Mcleod's instructions on setting the bearing to the right distance so I'm pretty sure I did that right. I cannot get the clutch to release. When I pressed the pedal when the tranny was in 1st gear it was really stiff and I was on a slight decline and it wouldn't roll so it isn't disengaging the clutch. I ended up bending the pushrod to the master cylinder it was so stiff.
If you are bending pushrod cause you push so hard, obviously something is not right. I would pull it out and see if the bearing works with the master outside of the trans. I did this to verify mine wasnt binding somewhere. Also did this to check total distance the ram moves. When i blew out the orings in the ram and broke the retainer ring on the end of the ram, the ram jambed and would not move. I wonder if this is your problem. Pull it out and see if it will move.
Sounds to me also that you've overextended the T/O bearing. Been there-done that. There's only about 1/4" to 3/8" travel in the McCleod T/O bearing. Usually this results in blowing the T/O bearing O rings as well.
When i blew out the o-rings on my ram, it also blew out the metal capture rink in the end. This metal ring then lodged between the two moving parts of the ram....then nothing would move. I ber you blew out the throwout bearing.
Well after taking off the cover I put on where the original fork went, I found that the bearing was extended all the way. I took everything apart and remeasured it to find the right distance. The bearing I am assuming is ok because there were no fluid leaks and after putting everything back together the bearing does release the clutch. It is pretty stiff compared to other hydraulic clutches I have used but I think that is due to the pedal ratio.
i finally got my throwout bearing working and releasiing properly, but still takes a lot to push it. Mine is mounted about an inch below oem. Going to try raising it to gain more leverage.
Mine is about 1" lower than the hole for the stock set-up to make the rod go threw the master cylinder at a straighter angle. Do you guys think a 1" master cylinder would help? How are you guys going to go about getting better leverage? Move the whole master cylinder up? I also have the centerforce dual friction clutch.
67Thunder
New Member
I made my own hydraulic set up but with a wilwood slave (not a hydraulic t/o bearing)
I started with a 7/8" bore master cylinder. I could barely depress the pedal. I reinforced the firewall (it was moving) and stepped down to a 5/8" bore master cylinder for more hydraulic advantage.
Still not a light clutch, but works very well. More pedal travel, but easier to modulate.
I started with a 7/8" bore master cylinder. I could barely depress the pedal. I reinforced the firewall (it was moving) and stepped down to a 5/8" bore master cylinder for more hydraulic advantage.
Still not a light clutch, but works very well. More pedal travel, but easier to modulate.
Alright so I just got the 5/8 master cylinder in today and it is 10 times better than the 3/4 master. It feels alot like my z06 and is alot easier on the leg. I would recommend the 5/8 for anyone using the mcleod throwout bearing and a mounting point for the pushrod around the factory location.
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