McLeod twin disc meet the hype? Update: We're going to find out...

2000xp8

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Think I've about had it with my heavy on/off switch of a clutch. If I drove the car every day I'd probably get used to it, but as of now it's a chore to even move it into the garage and onto the lift where I park it. Been considering a McLeod twin disc rst for a while. Now might be the time. It's an expensive clutch, so I'd appreciate some feedback. Hopefully I can reuse my billet flywheel, which is drilled for 10.5 and 11. So I could buy either size with a 26 spline.

I'm really after smooth engagement and light pedal effort (I guess everybody is).
Thanks for any input.
 
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Wayne Waldrep

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Once I installed a Centerforce Dual Friction long ago I've never used anything else. Factory pedal effort but excellent holding power. That's my only input on your last paragraph. :D
 

Noobz347

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xp8, what's your setup again?

480/500 sounds like PD. The Centerforce is a good one and will last longer than most. I've run 3 or 4. The Kenne Bell does like to eat them up.

From what I understand and the reason I've not already gone with a twin is because of the difficulty getting them setup right.

The $50k Fox thread has a good (and lengthy) writeup of what I"m talking about. I made jest of the whole process because it looked like images from NASA's space program.

I got pretty good at swapping clutches tho :D
 

Gear grabber

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I have the McLeod RXT,pedal effort is light. My street car has stiff wall slicks,i leave on 2 kits regularly,
clutch does not seem to notice. For a race clutch,engagement is fairly smooth. Not butter,but not bad at all.
Because of the light pedal,and holding power I will buy another when it goes.
 

2000xp8

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The currently clutch is a promotion setup with my tko600, the bellhousing is like stock style 4.6 aluminum one.
It literally has zero slip. It's either engaged, or not and it feels fully spring loaded, like you either are going to push it all the way down or let it all the way up.
I've considered going hydraulic, but the terminator engine doesn't allow for the use of any of the conversions, since the valve cover doesn't leave clearance.
Conversions are $750 anyway which is the same price as the twin. I have to believe even if I had the choice, the right one is the twin.
I've had centerforces that I've really liked in the past, but a lot of the 03 cobra guys complain about chatter with the DFX.
I really only want to pull this thing out once, especially when we are talking about clutches double and triple the price of basic units.

Not really too worried about setting it up. Once I have the plan in place and all the right parts, I'll call my buddy, he'll come over and we will get it done. I just have to have my favors carefully planned. He gets harassed by enough people, so I have to make sure things go as smooth as possible.
 
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TOOLOW91

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I had an RXT expensive but seems to be what you’re looking for . At 580 at the tire I ran a centerforce dual friction forever though . Wasn’t until I went to the ysi that I had to stepit up
 

2000xp8

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I had an RXT expensive but seems to be what you’re looking for . At 580 at the tire I ran a centerforce dual friction forever though . Wasn’t until I went to the ysi that I had to stepit up
I was thinking more along the lines of the RST.
Looks like the rxt is a few hundred more bucks and I doubt i'll goto whipple any time soon (or at all). 800 flywheel I would think would be enough rating?
Seems like the McLeod is more likely to replace an RXT under warranty if you race the car, but Englishtown closed a while ago and I doubt i'm driving to ATCO.
I'm even a little concerned about meeting the 500 mile city driving break in, that could be like 15 hours of driving, lol.
 

FastDriver

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The $50k Fox thread has a good (and lengthy) writeup of what I"m talking about. I made jest of the whole process because it looked like images from NASA's space program.
Link? I'd like to read this one. After about 5 attempts, I finally feel like I've got my discs properly installed. I think my original street twin is harder to set up properly than the RST, though. It uses a proprietary flywheel.
I'm really after smooth engagement and light pedal effort (I guess everybody is).
Thanks for any input.
You'll definitely get this. I cannot speak to the RST, but my "Original Street Twin" is a 1200 hp rated clutch. I think it, like the RST, is organic. The pedal effort is lighter than the stock pedal. Engagement is super smooth. Doesn't chatter and isn't on/off like my Spec 3+. It is an absolute bitch to set up right, though. Take your time, and check every measurement carefully if you go this route. The advantage over the RST is the capacity. The advantage over the RXT is both capacity and smoother engagement, but the draw back is that it doesn't like a lot of heat (neither does the RST) that you're likely to see at a drag strip. Also, it's not as good at high rpm. I get roll out at 6500+ rpm. I think the other two can go well over 7k.

If you don't get it set up properly, you'll ruin a very expensive clutch and possibly tranny synchros in short order. If you don't get the air gaps right, then the friction discs will either engage slightly with the flywheel or the floater.

One consideration is to run an aluminum flywheel. Twin discs are bulkier, heavier clutches than singles and they are much harder grabbing. This leads to higher forces in the drivetrain on the launch. The offset in flywheel weight can make a good chunk of this up, and the aluminum flywheel twin will feel more like a single disc with a steel flywheel. Perhaps your TKO will be stout enough to handle it if you're not dead hooking on drag radials. Have no idea what you're running in the rear. But, I'm just suggesting that you look into it.
 

Noobz347

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Link? I'd like to read this one. After about 5 attempts, I finally feel like I've got my discs properly installed. I think my original street twin is harder to set up properly than the RST, though. It uses a proprietary flywheel.
 

FastDriver

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I have the McLeod RXT,pedal effort is light. My street car has stiff wall slicks,i leave on 2 kits regularly,
clutch does not seem to notice. For a race clutch,engagement is fairly smooth. Not butter,but not bad at all.
Because of the light pedal,and holding power I will buy another when it goes.
I'm highly considering this route (RXT 1200) instead of the OST in the future, if the new "gnat's ass" install doesn't resolve the heat trouble I've had after burnouts and multiple runs before.
 
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2000xp8

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My rear is a 3.73, with moser 31 spline axles, new 03 cobra locker, MM extreme duty lowers, motorsport uppers, mm panhard bar, qa1 10 way adjustables and H&R rear springs.
Most likely get the MM HD torque arm eventually too.
275/35/18 bfg drag radials
The shift point is about 6500, not really too worried about going higher than that.

I'll probably stick with the steel flywheel. I think that's even what McLeod suggests.
I'd bet my current flywheel is still good. I rarely reuse any parts, but in this case, since it's billet, 10.5/11, if it can just be resurfaced for $50, i'll go that route.
 

FastDriver

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Great setup! Love the feel of the 3-link rear.

I'll probably stick with the steel flywheel. I think that's even what McLeod suggests.
If that's the case, I would like to see it.

If you bought a promotion product, I imagine you have some respect for Walt's opinion. I certainly do. Maybe give him a call? From his website (LINK):

We recommend running Aluminum Flywheels with these RST/RXT application due to there being more inetria weight with twin disc assemblies, and for the simple fact at these horespower levels the car makes enough torque for dead weight launches, you can tame the car down by not having so much weight in the rotating assembly of the clutch.
A direct phone conversation with him on the subject is what convinced me to go aluminum. Prior to this, I've run steel forever.

Also, are you tracking, and is your billet flywheel good for: (LINK)
NOTE: 2001.5 to 2010 Mustang 4.6L/5.4L factory flywheels may not work due to the large crank relief in the center of the flywheel. Crank relief must be 6.250" or smaller for correct disc to flywheel contact.
 
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TOOLOW91

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I was thinking more along the lines of the RST.
Looks like the rxt is a few hundred more bucks and I doubt i'll goto whipple any time soon (or at all). 800 flywheel I would think would be enough rating?
Seems like the McLeod is more likely to replace an RXT under warranty if you race the car, but Englishtown closed a while ago and I doubt i'm driving to ATCO.
I'm even a little concerned about meeting the 500 mile city driving break in, that could be like 15 hours of driving, lol.
I think the rst would be perfect for you . The friction material is the main diff with them . I did an rst in my buddies 2015 with a vmp that was making 720 or so at the tire . He went 10.80 on 20inch wheels with it , beat the clutch like it owed him money and it never skipped a beat .
 

Noobz347

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I'll probably stick with the steel flywheel. I think that's even what McLeod suggests.
I'd bet my current flywheel is still good. I rarely reuse any parts, but in this case, since it's billet, 10.5/11, if it can just be resurfaced for $50, i'll go that route.

There is no down side to running a billet steel flywheel on a street car.
 

96pushrod

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I run a RAM powergrip HD and it's great on the street. With 4.10 gears there's virtually no chatter while driving and the pedal effort isn't much to contend with. Plus it's a good bit cheaper than a twin disc setup.

Billet steel flywheel here as well.
 

FastDriver

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I run a RAM powergrip HD and it's great on the street. With 4.10 gears there's virtually no chatter while driving and the pedal effort isn't much to contend with. Plus it's a good bit cheaper than a twin disc setup.

Billet steel flywheel here as well.
I really want to try one of these out. Pretty sure it will be the next single disc clutch that I buy. Heard nothing but good things, and would also run a steel flywheel with it.

There is no down side to running a billet steel flywheel on a street car.
Doesn't matter if it's a street car or a race car. In fact, the heavier the car, the more shock to the drivetrain if it dead hooks. If you're running a single disc, a street radial or even a soft slick, we're not talking about the same thing. I'm not saying you will break a TKO with that set up, and I don't have numbers for how likely, but people have (bikewiz on corral, danimal95 & intmd8 on Turboforums who broke T56s come to mind) and a twin disc is a good bit heavier than a single. As for me, I'm doing what I can to protect my custom G-Force geared T56 investment. I guess if you're running slow 60's or never launch hard, then it doesn't matter, if that's what you're trying to say.

I'll let it go, now. I was only suggesting he look into it.
 
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90lxcoupe

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A bad clutch cable and pivot ball that isnt adjusted correctly is going to make everything much worse.

The pivot ball in the factory position is sometimes way to far away from the pressure plate. If you get an adjustable pivot ball and set it to where the clutch fork has about .050'' clearance to the pressure plate you will be very surprised at how much more control you have of the clutch pedal. The cables seem to cause the most issues though, it could be binding up and you dont even realize it.

If you do go twin disc, that is a ton of extra mass, and if it were me, i would use a aluminum flywheel. The steel stuff for something that gets driven hard has so much extra mass and there is no reason to hang that much weight on the driveline with modern clutch technology.
 
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TOOLOW91

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I really want to try one of these out. Pretty sure it will be the next single disc clutch that I buy. Heard nothing but good things, and would also run a steel flywheel with it.



Doesn't matter if it's a street car or a race car. In fact, the heavier the car, the more shock to the drivetrain if it dead hooks. If you're running a single disc, a street radial or even a soft slick, we're not talking about the same thing. I'm not saying you will break a TKO with that set up, and I don't have numbers for how likely, but people have (bikewiz on corral, danimal95 & intmd8 on Turboforums who broke T56s come to mind) and a twin disc is a good bit heavier than a single. As for me, I'm doing what I can to protect my custom G-Force geared T56 investment. I guess if you're running slow 60's or never launch hard, then it doesn't matter, if that's what you're trying to say.

I'll let it go, now. I was only suggesting he look into it.
Supra guys like Joel grannas are beating the t56 like it owes them money at 1300 plus wheel horsepower . Those cars are no feather weights either . I wonder what was breaking those guys
 
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