Mercury/ code red

[mustangdave]

At 115,000miles, my car is falling apart all at once. I just replaced both frt. window regulators at a cost of over $500! Below are my current problems; any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thx in advance.

1) Door lock not working on passenger side frt., but I can hear the actuator moving. Actuator bad? and not moving enough or is there a clip that could have come loose?

2) Intermittent battery light. Battery load tested fine, belt is recent, starts all the time (even in 25 degeree weather).

3) Bought new remote entry but cannot program. Do not have original permanent code but I thought I found it on an owners card; no dice. How do I remove the panel to access the computer ( it is supposed to be on there).

4) Cruise control stopped working. Previously had to push buttons several times to get it to work. Switch assembly on steering wheel?? Is this a pop out item that I can replace?

5) Hood not staying open. Rods are not sold at local stores and appear to be riveted to hood. Any ideas?

6) hood does not want to open or shut, as if the latch is sticking.??

7)Popping from frt. end when turned sharply or in a bind. Tie rods, ball joints?????

Seat belts do not retract w/o alot of help but I figure that is a straightforward remove and replace thing, but any experience or tips are welcome. Headliner falling out at back: I will try to tuck it back in. Also, has anybody ever replaced the carpet and/or seat covers in these cars. BTW, I have a 1998 Grand Marquis. Plz share your thoughts. < =text/> _uacct = "UA-939292-45"; urchinTracker();

 

[skunk21]

1. sounds like a the clip that holds the rod is off, this could have happened when they had the door apart, very easy to knock off. if the door lock actuator was junk like one is in my mustang you wouln't even hear it. you will have to remove the door panel to access.

2. possible loose connection to the wires that feed the light from the battery, or bad ground. other thing the alt could be dropping volts under certain loads due to age and the system will pick it up, most of the time this will happen at idle like stop lights, etc. and with lights on then go away when moving. also signs of a loose belt when this happens at idle even thoutgh the belt is new the tensioner could be bad and not holding the belt tight enough. due a charging system test at idle both with and w/o lights and all the stuff on. see if it maintains a constain out put and if changes with rpms.

3. you can also go to the dealer they may or may not charge you but they can pull up the door code for you, some times the code is not always on top off the pcm.

5. not sure how the hood pistons are set up on your car but to save yourself some money do this trick and it works like a charm, vise grips. clamp them right on the silver piston close to the body of the piston nice and tight, just one side and boom the hood stays up. for the amount of times you need it it worth saving the money, but maybe someone else will chime in if you don't like that one .

6. for the hood latch use some pb balster, wd 40 any type of rust penatrent and spray the hell out of it while working the lever back and forth use the whole can if you have to. then when it starts to work like it should use white lithium grease and spray on there every now and then to keep it working, same for the trunk, door hinges and door parts.

7. could be those or lower control arms bushings, stabilzer bushings or links etc. to checks this stuff it helps to have a buddy a long pry bar, or some thing for leverage. jack the car up drive or pass. side enough to get the wheel of the ground and to get the tool under the tire for leverage.

step one; for tie rod inner and outer visual check. grap the tire and move side to side shouldn't have play(maybe very little bearing play)have your buddy move the tire side to side and look at the out tie rod where it mounts to the knuckle if it's good it will move nice w/o and play or bouncing if it's bad it will be jumping around in the knuckleand look real sloppy you will see it trust me, same with inner it should move nice and fliud like not be jumping around and sloppy almost like it wants to pull out.

step two; lower and upper ball joints grap the tire top and bottom and move up and down should get no play no take the pry bar, 2x4 what ever and place it under the tire for leverage, now someone need to lok under the car at the lower ball joint, while using the tool to bounce the tire up and down look and the ball joint it should with the control arms if at's bad you will see it have play in it like have to much movement this means bad. this work the same for checking the uppers.

step three; other stuff to look at stabalizer links connect the stabalizer bar to the lower control arm and have a threaded rod with some bushings very cheap and can get noisy but they usaully rot out or snap. to chack the control arm bushings drop the car down enough to get weight on the tires someone wil have to get into the acr to move the sterring wheel and someone needs to look at the arms where they mount to the frame. turm the steering side to side and watch the arms to see if the move around or jump around on thier mounting points. remember you need the tires on the ground it takes pressure on the arms to move them to get a visual. check your shocks for leaks, look down you front stabalizer and check the bushings that mount the bar.

best of luck!

 

[mustangdave]

Wow, lots to check...thx for the pointers!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[skunk21]

no problem. keep updates on your progress or if you need some more help.

again goodluck.

 

[timeless2]

greensvt21, fantastic contributions. Thank you.

 

[skunk21]

just trying to give back to the site anyway i can, no thanks needed but appreciated .

 

[mustangdave]

Finally had a little time so here is the update so far:

1) Door lock actuator IS working but is not mounted to anything. Appears a stud might have broken off, but I couldn't sse the mounting point even with a mirror and flashlight. Ugh.

2) Cannot even attempt to find where the harnesses go to clean any other connections but a voltmeter read 14.8 volts at battery after cranked and did not drop below 14.6 after 10 minutes. Wait and see.

3) I found out that 1998 is the only year that requires a trip to the dealer for programming.

4) and 5) no update yet

6) lube worked!

7) on my to do list

 

[skunk21]

glad things are shaping up, the door actuator is a pain to try and get a visual on. has far as #2 di you put on all the lights, heater , etc. and run the volt test too at idle to see what happens? it could be a faulty light, I hate those things, you could install a volt gauge, very easy tap into the accesory wire on the ignition and a ground and it will give you a true reading of the system vs the light. best of luck.