Metal trunk divider?

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I saw that one, but have never seen it offered except as one piece....I think its a Dynacorn specific part...you can't get it separately. You are better off buying one from MAC's($60 ish) and pick up an Eastwood bead roller(They offer an 8" one for $80) and roll a couple of your own beads in there...though for such a large piece you would be better off with a 12" bead roller, but even an 8" should do the trick.
 
If money was no object you could buy that one and trim the piece you want off it but
Macs auto part for about 70$ Some other suppliers carry it too.
but you can make your own with your new skills

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I saw that one, but have never seen it offered except as one piece....I think its a Dynacorn specific part...you can't get it separately. You are better off buying one from MAC's($60 ish) and pick up an Eastwood bead roller(They offer an 8" one for $80) and roll a couple of your own beads in there...though for such a large piece you would be better off with a 12" bead roller, but even an 8" should do the trick.
That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.

This is something I won't have to worry about for a while. I'll put a bead roller on the list.
 
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That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.

This is something I won't have to worry about for a while. I'll put a bead roller on the list.

I would agree with you...if it weren't for the fact that the metal alone in the correct size costs almost as much as MAC's part(I know, its why I bought the MAC one). However...I have yet to install that particular piece(it gets installed after interior sandblasting since I will be welding it in). I will say that I am disapointed in how thin the MAC piece is though...I am guessing its 22 gauge...I would prefer to work with a 16-18 gauge piece for that.

To be clear though...there are only 2 reasons to use a metal divider:

1. To prevent gas entering the passenger compartment in the event of a rear end collision(I think this is a rather silly concern myself and could just as easily be achieved with a piece of plastic or metal installed over the tank...it also doesnt stop it coming up through the package tray anyway.

2. Torsional Rigidity...that infamous torsional rigidity test thread showed it to be the single most effective modification...when used to stiffen the unibody though, there is no need for reinforcement since the panel is working to reduce twisting flex, it already has all the strength needed in the plane that it is installed in. That being said...when I install mine, I already have some x-bracing ready to go I am installing behind it...mainly to eliminate the drum effect of large flat pieces of metal.
 
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I would agree with you...if it weren't for the fact that the metal alone in the correct size costs almost as much as MAC's part(I know, its why I bought the MAC one). However...I have yet to install that particular piece(it gets installed after interior sandblasting since I will be welding it in). I will say that I am disapointed in how thin the MAC piece is though...I am guessing its 22 gauge...I would prefer to work with a 16-18 gauge piece for that.

To be clear though...there are only 2 reasons to use a metal divider:

1. To prevent gas entering the passenger compartment in the event of a rear end collision(I think this is a rather silly concern myself and could just as easily be achieved with a piece of plastic or metal installed over the tank...it also doesnt stop it coming up through the package tray anyway.

2. Torsional Rigidity...that infamous torsional rigidity test thread showed it to be the single most effective modification...when used to stiffen the unibody though, there is no need for reinforcement since the panel is working to reduce twisting flex, it already has all the strength needed in the plane that it is installed in. That being said...when I install mine, I already have some x-bracing ready to go I am installing behind it...mainly to eliminate the drum effect of large flat pieces of metal.
That figures. 22 gauge is what I used to build the new vent hats on my lower cowl since I couldn't get 20 gauge locally. It is really, really thin. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Maybe get a bead roller and an pull the trigger on a sheet of 18 gauge and make my own.
 
That's one way to do it. I've seen the others like @2Blue2 posted, but I'm a bit turned off by the lack of reinforcement. Might as well just make it yourself if you're going to just use a piece of metal sheet.

This is something I won't have to worry about for a while. I'll put a bead roller on the list.

Why does it need reinforcement? The purpose is only to prevent gasoline splash. I've been thinking about putting in a fuel cell in my 68 because of this reason and because I hate the rear gas cap. I wouldn't mind opening the trunk to fill-er-up.
 
Why does it need reinforcement? The purpose is only to prevent gasoline splash. I've been thinking about putting in a fuel cell in my 68 because of this reason and because I hate the rear gas cap. I wouldn't mind opening the trunk to fill-er-up.
I would imagine that a metal sheet that covers that side of an area would tend to flex and make noise without some reinforcement for rigidity.
 
The sheet I bought years ago was steel and did not flex that much. It's supposed to be welded in.

Most of the "kits" on the market are attached with sheet metal screws and silicone...most people dont weld them in...and no, the only purpose is NOT to prevent gasoline splash(it would be worthless if that is the reason you are buying it...if you want it for that reason, you are far better off buying tank armor) it is the single most torsional rigidity increasing mod you can do to a classic mustang....at least if this old thread is to be believed: Torsional rigidity test: 67 coupe | Mustang Forums at StangNet
 
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I am sure the silicone helps...but it doesn't stop a flat piece of metal vibrating around where it is unsupported(think of how they used to make "thunder" sounds in early movies, although in that case they are only supporting one side)