Okay just recently bought a Mac H pipe for 03 GT.ok am i just an idiot or am i doing something wrong? everyone else I have read on did not have much trouble getting the passenger side bolts from the manifold. I spent pretty much the whole night getting 2 bolts, the rest were a breeze but just those 2. anyone have any suggestions? ive tried the swivel as AM suggested and eventually got them, now tomorow i have to look forward to installing them... any tips please. AND also has anyone ever had their O2 get stuck in the stock midpipe? 1 of the 4 is wedged into the pipe as if it has welded itself in. PLEASE HELP GUYS. THANKS
Mid pipe install.....seriously wtf
- Thread starter StanginSean
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did you spay some PB blaster a night before on those bolt ? and some more when you ready to take those bolt off. PB blaster is your best friends. BTW if your Mac O/R H pipe come with the gasket, throw that gasket away and go ford and buy a oem gasket, it alot thicker, and and use some copper rtv silicon on that gasket.
eliteJAE
Member
+1
my o2 was stuck as well, i just soaked it with PB blaster, let it sit for a while, and then positioned the wrench on it and kicked it loose lol i did this with the stock midpipe already off and the special o2 removal socket (the one with a slit on the side).
i shouldve done the coper rtv, i used a new OEM gasket and did everything i still had leaks like a mofo on that side until a mechanic tightened them for me on a lift with a bigass torque wrench. The h-pipe takes some aligning so make sure to not tightened the bolts until you got them all lined up, and then proceed to tighten systematically, otherwise it can shift to either side and it wont let it bolt on right.
eliteJAE
Member
technically it was a three piece for me 
the two straight pipes coming down from the manifolds, and then the solid h-pipe piece that connects to the catback
the two straight pipes coming down from the manifolds, and then the solid h-pipe piece that connects to the catback
technically it was a three piece for me
the two straight pipes coming down from the manifolds, and then the solid h-pipe piece that connects to the catback
U need take that to muffler shop and have them weld together.
eliteJAE
Member
nah i just adjusted it well, i dont like the idea of it all being welded together since its more of a bitch to get out than the stock hpipe
i will probably try the copper rtv, however
you may need to cut the socket a little shorter if your using a swivel attatchment... you should be using 3/8 stuff too... a swivel socket works best...15mm right
sometimes o2's do that... they dont always come out perfect... you can tr removing it... but chances are if they are really stuck, your gonna have to replace the sensor...
btw have find grinding the studs on the d-side manifold... id recommnd just replacing them if you can
dc
sometimes o2's do that... they dont always come out perfect... you can tr removing it... but chances are if they are really stuck, your gonna have to replace the sensor...
btw have find grinding the studs on the d-side manifold... id recommnd just replacing them if you can
dc
flstang65
10 Year Member
dont forget a new gasket for the pass side. you may or may no need o2 extensions for the rear. i dont know if macs need them or not. i know my bassani did.
+1 , Take one of your Long 15mm 3/8 socket and put it in a vice or use a C-clamp, something to hold it , now take a hacksaw and cut the socket down to about 1 in 1/2 long , I have no problem with taking my Prochamber off thanks to my custom socket !
StangYellow
Founding Member
- Sep 11, 2002
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No, it doesnt. I believe that its in 2 pieces so you can remove the transmission and leave those 2 front pipes connected. Just make sure the bolts are tightened evenly. No sense in getting them welded unless theres a severe leak you cannot fix.
StangYellow
Founding Member
- Sep 11, 2002
- 1,052
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Oh and to remove the bolts... I use a single swivel with boatloads of extensions. The extra extensions provide leverage. Also disconnect the battery since the starter is close to where you are working 
I used a 6 point mid socket, shorter than a deep socket and deeper than a basic socket. That, a swivel, extensions, a cheater bar, pb blaster, all worked well.
I had to swap my stock midpipe on last year to pass inspection
but I guess the bright side of that is that I'm getting better at installing my offroad midpipe, and the bolts don't have much of a chance of rusting solid.
gtford86
New Member
yeah its a pain in the butt i did the bbk to mine a few weeks ago not a one man job i spent a few hours my self till i called for help...and still took a total ok 5 1/2 hours. the pass header bolts mess me up ran into problems with bolts not going on etc...
I used a 1/2 ratchet 2 long extensions 6 point 15 mm and a swivel ...and had no more problem but takes time to tinker with
I used a 1/2 ratchet 2 long extensions 6 point 15 mm and a swivel ...and had no more problem but takes time to tinker with
yeah i made this mistake, and had to redo half of the exhaust, Now i am going deeper and redoing it with RTV
gtford86
New Member
yeah i got extensions for mine but did not do pass side gasket... did i need to?? i might gave a slight leak maybe thats were from??
eliteJAE
Member
definitely, buy yourself an oem crush gasket for the pass. side and use rtv like people have been doing, i shouldve used rtv as well 
All you need is a 15mm shallow 1/2" drive socket, 1/2" universal swivel, extension and ratchet. Thats it. If you use a 3/8 drive, a shallow socket wont be deep enough, but a deep socket will be too long. 1/2" drive is key. Trust me. Figured that out and have had zero problems with my H pipe since. I've pulled it out prob 4 or 5 times over the last couple months.
a swivel and 15 mm deep socket and a 3/8 16" extension before i got my 02 sensors shut off i got pretty good at swapping from o/r X to stock cats for emissions i was doun to 30-45 min(in my driveway) to drop either cats or o/r pipe if its your first time it will take a little but but as you figure out the little tricke toy can get faster
Man i just did my pypes x pipe last week...and it was a pain in the a$$. I soak those header studs and tried to he-man them off... We ended up with a 1/2in 15mm with extension and swivel and air gun and they came off in less than a second. <-- Should have done this in the first place instead of popping some veins. Nevertheless, that pypes x just isn't straight bolt on...had tons of leaks...the weld on the o2 cracked and it hung very low. Eventually i took to muffler shop...they re did everything and it sits at stock height up and tight and straighten it out and welded the pipe together and its all good.
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