Missing torque down low?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by TOOLOW91, Apr 20, 2013.

  1. So i have been messing with my car to try and get it right , Let me see if i can describe it and see what you guys think.. The past 2 weeks the car just hasn't felt like itself. The torque curve between 2000-3500 is like hitting a brick wall. Second gear the car usually just wants to leap and blaze the tires because of lack of traction, now it almost feels as if the car hits a huge flat spot and then after 3500 comes alive and pulls to 5k.

    Plugs were just changed to factory motorcrafts gapped at 0.52 Stock spec
    Stock dist and ignition, Ford racing wires.Gt40 truck intake and the rest is in my sig.

    Closing the spark plug gap up maybe help it out? say to 0.45 ?
  2. Have you checked your fuel pressure?.. also how old is your fuel pump? Also have you checked to see if it's giving off any codes with the engine running.
    toolow91 likes this.
  3. Haven't ran codes , has adj reg but last time it was set was on my old built motor I want to check that also pump I don't think as ever done I have. 255 and a sending unit at home for the car as well

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  4. so i re gapped to 0.45 and it made a little difference . I am gonna change the coil and the fuel filter when I do the pump and see if that makes a difference ... my honest opinion is it's my junk c&l meter I am gonna send my pro m to be cal for my 24s

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  5. Check the ignition timing using a timing light. If you don't find any problems, then dump the codes.

    Setting the timing:
    Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

    10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

    Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

    Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

    ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
    ---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

    The ' is 2 degrees.
    The ! is TDC
    The ' is 10 degrees BTC
    Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

    To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

    The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see that the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

    At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

    Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
    Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

    Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

    The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
    Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8


    Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

    Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

    Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

    Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

    Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

    Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
    Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.



    If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.


    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.


    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

    What to expect:
    You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

    Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

    Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

    Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

    Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
    See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

    Alternate methods:
    For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

    Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30-$36.
  6. X2 on the timing. If you can bump it to 14 BTDC without pinging you should pick up some low end. Recheck all the wires to make sure none of them backed off the plugs or cap.
    toolow91 likes this.
  7. will do on this rainy ny day thanks guys

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  8. Last night I didn't get over to the garage I ended having to help my girl tonight I will tinker with it and let you guys no

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  9. Are you talking about tinkering with your girl or the car?:nice: Let us know either way.
  10. LMFAO . Yeah i wish, helped her with her school :poo: and got a THANKS .... she better make up for it
    tonight because I didn't go to college for this very reason lol and I am not about to start now ....

    Anyway last time I timed it I set it up balancer at 0tdc when dist was put in . 10degreesBTC on my gun turned advance knob all the way down . I advanced the knob. 2 notches and locked it in there . so it should be at 12 but I am gonna try marking 10 and 12 with a marker and then re try to make sure my gun is accurate

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  11. Threw more timing in it . 15degrees runs better feels good but it's not all there . I have another coil to try. I also have my new fuel pump and sending unit to go in with a new filter and I guess I will take it from there

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  12. did you try taking the timing up to 16 degrees every little bit helps as long as it dont ping at 16
  13. no but I can try more

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  14. swapped with another stock coil and car pulls to 5k ... I can't wait to Do pump and filter

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  15. glad to hear shes coming around